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Dana 60 inner shafts

Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
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Location
Grand Junction, CO
Coreshot said:
Post some pics... :cool:
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Here's what I have so far:

High Pinion Dana 44 (Thanks ONCORB!), which will have the tubes cut off and I'll be using only the center section. New tubes will be added & the diff will be swapped for Pass. Drop.

Dodge kingpin Dana 60 knuckles, which will be welded onto the ends of the new axle tubes.

Pics-
 

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Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I was stripping down and cleaning the Dana 44 tonight and I took some measurements. I found that the diff tubes on the 44 seem to be just under 3" (didn't get a real accurate measurement) and the inner diameter of the 60 inner C's is 3 1/4". I'm thinking I'll buy 2 pieces of 3 1/4" tube, have one end machined down to slip inside the diff. housing and not have to sleeve the 60 knuckle into place!

I was pretty stoked to learn this, as it simplifies the process.
 
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Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
OCNORB said:
You are welcome! Looks like your off to a good start!
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I saved those radius arms for ya! I'll try bring them with me next time I come up... or next time you come to Moab, let me know and I'll run them over. ;)
 
Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I briefly tried drilling out the rosette welds on the center section, no way I'm going to do it by hand. I think I'll have to buy that drill press before I can disassemble the 44 any further.

Has anyone retubed their own housing, in their garage? I have an idea for a homemade axle lineup bar, but not sure how accurate it will be. I'm concerned about getting the tubes straight. Any ideas or suggestions?
 
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I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Greg said:
I briefly tried drilling out the rosette welds on the center section, no way I'm going to do it by hand. I think I'll have to buy that drill press before I can disassemble the 44 any further.

Has anyone retubed their own housing, in their garage? I have an idea for a homemade axle lineup bar, but not sure how accurate it will be. I'm concerned about getting the tubes straight. Any ideas or suggestions?
Click to expand...

There's a good tech article somewhere on the 'net about checking for straightness and then straightening an axle housing. I can't remember where, but I'm sure someone can find it if they bother searching. ;)

It uses a light bulb at one end, then you sight through it looking for concentric rings....
 
Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I Lean said:
There's a good tech article somewhere on the 'net about checking for straightness and then straightening an axle housing. I can't remember where, but I'm sure someone can find it if they bother searching. ;)

It uses a light bulb at one end, then you sight through it looking for concentric rings....
Click to expand...


Awesome, I'll see what I can find! :D
 
OCNORB

OCNORB

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Alpine
Greg said:
I saved those radius arms for ya! I'll try bring them with me next time I come up... or next time you come to Moab, let me know and I'll run them over. ;)
Click to expand...

Sounds good. Maybe this spring.

I have a 1.5" shaft out of an old LARGE pump that works well. It is threaded on both ends- I took some 1.5" I.D aluminum tubing and tapered the ends in the lathe. They slide down the alignment shaft and center the housing up. Aluminum pucks I made up for the diff bearings fit the 1.5" shaft.

My biggest problem is getting the caster and camber the same on both sides.....
 
Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I Lean said:
That sounds like it's for if you're keeping the 44 tubes. Since you're putting 60 tubes in, you might be better off machining the tube ends for standard D60 seals.
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Ahh, you're right. I skimmed over it, thinking they were replacing the tubes.

Machining the tubes shouldn't be hard, as I'll already be turning down the outside.
 
Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
OCNORB said:
I have a 1.5" shaft out of an old LARGE pump that works well. It is threaded on both ends- I took some 1.5" I.D aluminum tubing and tapered the ends in the lathe. They slide down the alignment shaft and center the housing up. Aluminum pucks I made up for the diff bearings fit the 1.5" shaft.

My biggest problem is getting the caster and camber the same on both sides.....
Click to expand...


That 1.5" shaft sounds like a great find. I was thinking of using a piece of all thread and some how using tapered ends and large nuts on the outside, to tighten the tubes and bring them into alignment...?

I narrowed the Chevy 44 that's currently under my 4Runner and using an angle meter, I'm pretty confident I got the caster/camber quite close. I think using the same method on the 44/60, I'd imagine I could do it again.
 
53 willys

53 willys

Bad speller
Location
Lehi
Greg saw this on Pirate and thought of you, this seem like a very simple way to keep every thing striaght. :D just run some tube through the axle tubes and center section :confused: weld it up and pull it out. just a thought :confused:

P.S happy b-day Greg :D
 

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Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
Greg said:
I briefly tried drilling out the rosette welds on the center section, no way I'm going to do it by hand. I think I'll have to buy that drill press before I can disassemble the 44 any further.
Click to expand...
Since you are not keeping the 44 tubes, I would use a torch to cut the plug welds out. You will go through a lot of drill bits. Those welds are HARD. I seem to remember seeing pictures of a guy using a small bottle jack inside the diff to force the tubes out after cutting/drilling the plug welds. I'll look for it.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
I Lean said:
There's a good tech article somewhere on the 'net about checking for straightness and then straightening an axle housing. I can't remember where, but I'm sure someone can find it if they bother searching. ;)

It uses a light bulb at one end, then you sight through it looking for concentric rings....
Click to expand...
I think this is the article...
http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/diffstraighten.html

Here is some help with tube removal.
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/hpd44front/hpd44front.cfm
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153254&highlight=press+tube+bottle+jack
 
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Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
53 willys said:
Greg saw this on Pirate and thought of you, this seem like a very simple way to keep every thing striaght. :D just run some tube through the axle tubes and center section :confused: weld it up and pull it out. just a thought :confused:

P.S happy b-day Greg :D
Click to expand...


I like that idea, very simple. Thanks for the pic & info.

And thanks... :hickey:
 
Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Hickey said:
Since you are not keeping the 44 tubes, I would use a torch to cut the plug welds out. You will go through a lot of drill bits. Those welds are HARD. I seem to remember seeing pictures of a guy using a small bottle jack inside the diff to force the tubes out after cutting/drilling the plug welds. I'll look for it.
Click to expand...


Hummm.... drilling seemed easier, but if the welds are that hard, torching sounds like the way to go. Good thing I picked up a torch recently. Now we'll just see how steady my hand is... :ugh:
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
Greg said:
Hummm.... drilling seemed easier, but if the welds are that hard, torching sounds like the way to go. Good thing I picked up a torch recently. Now we'll just see how steady my hand is... :ugh:
Click to expand...
You might wanna practice on some scrap steel until you get the flame adjusted for the best cut.
 
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