Dana 60 vs 14 bolt

[Corban_White]

For a rear axle, which is better and why? I'm sure there are fans of both (chevy v ford, lincoln v miller, etc.) but I'm looking for the pros and cons of each. Parts availability, price, strength, aftermarket, etc. Lets hear it.

 

[LT.]

For a rear axle application you cannot beat the 14 bolt for sure beef. 10.5" ring gear, easy to set up with the adjusting collars, no shims, and let's not forget cheap! About the only problems with them are limited gear choices and large diff. You can shave the bottom of the diff and gain some ground clearance if needed.

When it comes to gear selections you would be hard pressed to beat a Dana 60, for a rear application. Problems are that you are going to have to search a little harder for the Dana rear verses the 14 bolt rear.

Other than the gear choices I cannot think of any other advantages to run a Dana 60 over the 14 bolt.

I am sure that I have only scratched the surface of this topic but others will straighten me out.

LT.

 

[jswainthug]

IMO 14 no contest!

 

[Kiel]

a 60 is gonna cost more money to build. Your going to have to bore the spindles to accept 35 spline blanks or custom axles. Unless your going to run the stockers which is pointless. 14 bolt will need to be shaved- has easier gears to set up 1.5 inch shafts stock

 

[lewis]

I went with the 14 bolt because I didn't have to do anything to it to add strength (although I need to weld the tubes so they don't twist on me) and because of how easy it is to setup the gears. hardest part was the crush sleeve and with a press to get it started it wasn't to hard.

 

[notajeep]

I love my 14

 

[Crinco]

BEST thing about the 14 B is you can buy an extra axle for $50-75 and have a spare set of shafts and gears(if you run stock, but they will never break!), and you can't do that with a 60. There are a few week spots with the 14 B, like tubes can twist, but easy to make that a non-issue too. I know it is real easy to add disk brakes to the 14 B, and not too expencive either, can't say about the 60, but likely just as easy. AND, you can change the hubs on the 14B and make it narrower by several inches if needed without changing the axle shafts or having to have new ones made.
Either axle should give you many miles of happy trails.

P.S. I have a 14 bolt for my buggy, only took it out to run a 60 rear steer in it, otherwise it would still be there today.

 

[rondo]

I chose the 60 rear and caught some flak for it but that's ok. Disk brake kits are cheapy cheap. I'm told stock 14b (i think, someone on here would know) axles can be made to fit by cutting down 1/4 inch of spline on one and boring out the spindles. didn't bother to make this upgrade myself. Shaving the 14bolt, necessary for ground clearance but not something i need to do with either one. Bigger beef of the ring gear, not needed since i don't run monster tires. Shafts are same length my on 60 so 1 cheap spare should be okay. At the end of the day i've never broken a rear 44 so i'm perfectly content that my 60 will be fine. Comes down to the individual and his application; how much beef he needs.

 

[Vonski]

If you want/need a lower gearset than 5.13 or a highpinion diff, you're gonna need the D60.

However, 5.13's aren't bad and I'm not big on rev. cut D60's in the rear. Just run a rear Hi-9. :greg:

For your project, a 14 bolt would be great!

 

[4554x4]

14

I like the 14 bolt for me. It fit prefectly in place of the pos 10 bolt. Used 14 bolts everywhere. And cheap.

 

[420willys]

14 bolt all the way. once you weld the tubes and give it a good shave your all set till you hit the 46'' tire range. my shaved 14 bolt has more ground clearance than the HP 60 front and i only took the lower lip off. some do the 13 bolt and wled a plate to the bottom, me i didn't.

yes i get hung up time to time, but its nice to know i can back up and smash the gas and plow or wedge the axle over, will it break dought it.

but what ever you do weld the tubes, i didn't and broke the plug welds and spun a tube. this is the axles only down fall, but get past that and ive to break another, i just break front outputs:greg:

jason.

 

[I Lean]

I chose the 60 rear and caught some flak for it but that's ok. Disk brake kits are cheapy cheap. I'm told stock 14b (i think, someone on here would know) axles can be made to fit by cutting down 1/4 inch of spline on one and boring out the spindles. didn't bother to make this upgrade myself. Shaving the 14bolt, necessary for ground clearance but not something i need to do with either one. Bigger beef of the ring gear, not needed since i don't run monster tires. Shafts are same length my on 60 so 1 cheap spare should be okay. At the end of the day i've never broken a rear 44 so i'm perfectly content that my 60 will be fine. Comes down to the individual and his application; how much beef he needs.

A 14 bolt shaft won't be used in a D60. Even though the diameter is 1.5", it's only 30 spline compared to the industry-standard 35 spline 1.5" shafts--which is what you'd get when you bought a D60 locker. (or at least that's what you SHOULD get....) Also, the 8-bolt pattern on the end of the axleshafts is smaller on the 14bolt shaft.

You will need to bore the spindles to use 35 spline shafts though.

 

[rondo]

Was it Dana 70 then? Just trying to recall a conversation with Yoda when i was at RadJeeper one day. thanks

 

[I Lean]

Was it Dana 70 then? Just trying to recall a conversation with Yoda when i was at RadJeeper one day. thanks

Yeah, a D70 could work for that, depending on the shaft length and spline count. There were several varieties of D70's, some 32 spline and some 35 spline, and then different lengths. Assuming the length of your donor shafts was close, and they're 35 spline, then all you'd need to do is buy a 35 spline carrier, and bore the spindles. (the boring is really the most difficult part of the whole thing)

 

[jsudar]

14 bolt, no contest.

1. Lockers are a bit cheaper, gears that are much lower than 5.13s tend to have too few teeth on the pinion anyway.

2. You can also set up the gears with your eyes closed. If it takes longer than an hour, you're doing something wrong.

3. I have $250 into my disc brake setup-- that included buying the brackets and a whole 3/4 ton chevy. I bought the whole truck and used the front discs on the 14B it came with. Everything is bolt on.

4. Welding the axles tubes will take about 2 hours (cleaning and pre/post heat) and $20 worth of Nickel 55 rod.

5. Shaving the housing is easy. I used a hacksaw and a 7" angle grinder and have plenty of clearance with my 37s.

Now you have no reasons left to get a D60.

 

[supasammi]

I would have to go with the Corp. 14 Bolt absolutely for the rear because of its strength, super thick axle shafts, load sharing bearings, lack of shim (it screws to adjust), easy to find, and finally its cheap cost.

I love it so much that if you can afford it I would convert a rear Corp. 14 bolt into a front steering axle. The guys on extreme 4x4 did it and it turned out awesome!!!

 

[rkillpack]

I have one of both sitting in storage right now. Every time I look at them I am amazed at the sheer size/strength of the 14 FF. I run one right now in my Suburban and have never had even the slightest hint of a problem with it.

 

[Meat_]

If you want/need a lower gearset than 5.13 ...

You can get a 5.38 now

 

[DToy]

D70HD. Stock 1.5" 35 spline shafts - 4" diameter x 1/2 wall tubes. With slight modifcation you can use a disk brake kit for a 14 bolt. Slightly better clearance than a 14 bolt also, and gearing to as low as 7.17. The Detroit for mine was about $500, so not too expensive to lock up.

 

[Chevycrew]

DIY4X has the dana 70 HD disc brake kit for $140 pretty good deal considering it includes rotors.