Yes. I haven't done it, I just try and use sustained full throttle several times each day to increase the velocity through the intercooler thus (hopefully) pulling the condensation into the engine before it can build up and cause an issue.Have you guys seen the videos of folks drilling small holes in their intercoolers to drain the oil and water residue?
I've been having to replace plugs at work, there was a batch of counterfeit or defective spark plugs supplied by the distribution center a while back. They would lose the center electrode in a few hundred to a few thousand miles. I've pulled whole sets out that had the center electrode eroded way back into the plug.I’d recommend OE as well just watch out for fakes. Same packaging, same look, same box etc but not what you think it is. I’m seeing it all over the PSD boards lately with glow plugs and I think I might have installed some counterfeit ones in mine 😣.
Just a heads up in case you don’t already know.
IWEIn our Expedition we've got a very growly sounding drivers front wheel. (at least it sounds like its the front wheel) It has gotten progressively worse. It's usually starts from a dead stop, and then will go away at about 20-30 mph. It also goes away when it's warm outside, and gets WAAAAY worse when it's freezing. Engine temp, brake temp, long drive, and short drive don't seem to change the sound. Just outside temps.
It's not a typical bearing sound. It's sounds exactly like when driving in circles on pavement in 4x4. A low growly rur rur rur, with almost a clutchy sound. Increases with wheel speed. Does not go away if turning side to side.
Thoughts on what it might be. I'd love for it just to be a hub assembly.. but that doesn't seem right to me.
Mine was making that exact noise. I thought it was coming from the passenger side. Then it started to get really loud on the drivers side and the ABS and VSC would fault. I replaced both hub assemblies. The drivers side was almost completely seized. Solved all the issues. Very easy job.In our Expedition we've got a very growly sounding drivers front wheel. (at least it sounds like its the front wheel) It has gotten progressively worse. It's usually starts from a dead stop, and then will go away at about 20-30 mph. It also goes away when it's warm outside, and gets WAAAAY worse when it's freezing. Engine temp, brake temp, long drive, and short drive don't seem to change the sound. Just outside temps.
It's not a typical bearing sound. It's sounds exactly like when driving in circles on pavement in 4x4. A low growly rur rur rur, with almost a clutchy sound. Increases with wheel speed. Does not go away if turning side to side.
Thoughts on what it might be. I'd love for it just to be a hub assembly.. but that doesn't seem right to me.
Ours would do similar, but then go into limp mode. swapped a coil pack to verify, and then replaced. Pretty quick. In fact, the wife replaced it, not me.Mine has developed a stutter under hard.. Or even medium throttle. Getting up to freeway speed on a short on ramp is tough and passing on the freeway is basically a no go. My tuner shows misfire on cylinder 2... Occasionally cylinder 1 and two. I had plugs done last spring and it was doing it just barely before (like you had to punch it to get it to stutter) then went away after plugs. Now it's back and worse.
I need to check for fouled plugs or try swapping the ignition coil pack thing from one to another to see if it changes the cylinder that's misfiring. Hoping I'll have time this fall to get to it ha ha
I had two coils go bad that caused a major stutter while towing back from Moab last fall. Had them replaced and she's good as new.Mine has developed a stutter under hard.. Or even medium throttle. Getting up to freeway speed on a short on ramp is tough and passing on the freeway is basically a no go. My tuner shows misfire on cylinder 2... Occasionally cylinder 1 and two. I had plugs done last spring and it was doing it just barely before (like you had to punch it to get it to stutter) then went away after plugs. Now it's back and worse.
I need to check for fouled plugs or try swapping the ignition coil pack thing from one to another to see if it changes the cylinder that's misfiring. Hoping I'll have time this fall to get to it ha ha
This. There is companies that are making catch cans to go in-line on the PCV for this exact reason. My next ecoboost I will be investing in one.I had two coils go bad that caused a major stutter while towing back from Moab last fall. Had them replaced and she's good as new.
I also think that the EGR with the turbos causes extra oil vapor to kill the sparkplugs faster. I've seen catch can kits but I just don't know if they are worth it.
We just replaced manifolds on my mil's eb. The rear runners only have on bolt that was broken on both sides. I think she has 100k miles and hers is a 17?Mine has ~135,000. It has struggled with the overheating while towing heavy issue previously discussed (still trying to resolve) and has developed (I believe anyway, unverified as yet) a leak at the pass exhaust manifold. Whistles under acceleration until the exhaust gets warm. And I changed out the front wheel bearings the other day. Other than that it's been great.
Its way common. I put three on my 2012 that had 195K miles on it before I sold it. That was really the only thing I had issues with. They hang that turbo off the back of the manifold with only one bolt on it. They have fixed the problem on the newer ones. I don't know what year but my 2022 has two bolts on the rear.We just replaced manifolds on my mil's eb. The rear runners only have on bolt that was broken on both sides. I think she has 100k miles and hers is a 17?
Sounds like it's pretty common.