How to: attach jeep to trailer?

Badcop

Who Dat? Who Der?
Location
Hyrum UT
Didnt want to ready 5 pages, I say binders if you have the ability to use them on the trailer, also for long hauls, air down the tires, tie it down, re inflate tires.
 

WJL

Registered User
Location
Eden, Utah
I have used chains and straps X configuration. I also use 6x6 or 8x8 timbers lag bolted to 3/4" plywood and chauk the tires front and rear ( all 4). I use 3/8" lag bolts through the plywood base to the trailer wood platform.
Trailered many miles and not a movement. chauking tires helps alot
I do check the straps every gas stop and retighten if needed.

Also if you can get them, the tire straps work great. Kind that go over the tire and cradle it and ratchet down. Summit Racing has them but I have not found any that will fit a 37" tire mostly for smaller tires but they work great when I trailer the Mustang.
 

Badcop

Who Dat? Who Der?
Location
Hyrum UT
81Ramchargerman said:
Y in reverse??? I just put my truck in granny and call it good. LOL, my dd doesn't have an E-Brake...

most trannies will lock the shifter when in reverse. 1-x gears have a tendancy to pop out.
 

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
I like
load_binder_ratchet-2.jpg
and
chain_G70.JPG




mbryson said:
What's a chain 'rating'? I seem to remember them being in the 15,000 lb-20,000 lb. range for a decent 3/8" logging type chain (anybody know, that's kind of a large range).

3/8's grade 70 is around 6,600 lbs working and 26,000 lbs breaking
 

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
I just love seeing a vehicle/20' boat/4 quads/4 horse trailer behind an Dakota, S10 or a Ranger on the freeway doing 70 :rofl:
 

utahxjer

Well-Known Member
popo said:
I have even been in a reck and every thing was great.
except for the truck right? And yes the trailer has brakes... Looks like you got a new tow rig too?
 
Last edited:

fattodog

frame cracks= More flex!!
Location
Roy, Utah
popo said:
Duct tape, lots and lots of duct tape. :rolleyes:

You forgot to add the baling twine! We used this all the time on the ranch to tie stuff in Montana! Between duct tape and twine, you can secure anything :rofl: KENNETH !!
 

81Ramchargerman

Registered User
Location
idaho falls
fattodog said:
popo said:
Duct tape, lots and lots of duct tape. :rolleyes:

You forgot to add the baling twine! We used this all the time on the ranch to tie stuff in Montana! Between duct tape and twine, you can secure anything :rofl: KENNETH !!

You CANNOT forget the bailing wire!!! what redneck quick fix set would be complete without that??? (It's for the 'high temp' repairs) :D
 

utahxjer

Well-Known Member
popo said:
Nope I had that truck for about 2 years. just new tires as of last night.
When did you see the truck? It almost never leaves the shed. :confused:
In front of your house... Looks like your moving...
 

V-DAWG

someday
Location
Taylorsville
I have only heard one person say it so far, but you should strap above the axle. You need to compress the suspension, because if the vehicle bounces up and down you can flatten out your wheel bearings. When the vehicle is rolling, the weight is distributed over all the bearings, but when it is sitting on a trailer, all the force goes to the same location on every bump you hit. Squash the suspension down so the vehicle doesn't bounce as you drive down the road, don't just tie down the axle.
 

pumpkinbronc

ONETONPUMPKIN
Location
Mesquite, Nv
V-DAWG said:
I have only heard one person say it so far, but you should strap above the axle. You need to compress the suspension, because if the vehicle bounces up and down you can flatten out your wheel bearings. When the vehicle is rolling, the weight is distributed over all the bearings, but when it is sitting on a trailer, all the force goes to the same location on every bump you hit. Squash the suspension down so the vehicle doesn't bounce as you drive down the road, don't just tie down the axle.

I used to haul cars for a living and all the factory tie points are on the frame or the body, I dont know about wheel bearing damage but with the suspension sucked down theres just less movement of the vehicles, straps stretch so I would use chains if ya can. Just my .02 :D
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
V-DAWG said:
I have only heard one person say it so far, but you should strap above the axle. You need to compress the suspension, because if the vehicle bounces up and down you can flatten out your wheel bearings. When the vehicle is rolling, the weight is distributed over all the bearings, but when it is sitting on a trailer, all the force goes to the same location on every bump you hit. Squash the suspension down so the vehicle doesn't bounce as you drive down the road, don't just tie down the axle.


I don't buy the wheel bearing argument. Compressing the suspension enough to prevent any bounce is not only going to be damn near impossible to do, but its also going to put the same or more pressure on the bearings as it would see at any other time, but its a constant pressure having it cinched down like that. Also, you guys saying the factory tie points are on the frame...well how many factory vehicles do you see with 16" travel (or more) shocks? Also, I think it would be a lot harder on your straps/chains to have them being hit constantly on every bump as the suspension loads and unloads. On a factory vehicle you only have to compress what, about three inches of suspension? We're talking modified off-road rigs, not your typical factory vehicles. Thats fine if you want to strap the frame/body but to rely on that solely is crazy, one good bump and your suspension compresses (even just a little), the hook comes off, and now your rig is no longer strapped at all :eek:
 

pumpkinbronc

ONETONPUMPKIN
Location
Mesquite, Nv
I suck my 4x4 down till it bottoms out the same as i would a factory car. Ive just never been big on straping the axles, it always reminds be of a giant bobble-head doll gong down the road. With my luck I'd get to the trail with two axles strapped to the trailer and no chassis:eek:
 

AINT SKEERED

Balls to the Walls
Location
Salt Lake
I had my xj towed on a flat bed a while back. Professional job. Chains and hooks on both axles. The front hooks were on a winch mechanism. So to load the xj the driver tipped the flatbed hooked the chains to the rear axle and activated the winch. When the xj was on the flatbed he tipped it back flat and connected the chains to the front axle. Then he tightened the front chains with the winch. Put it in park and drove off. NO I repeat NO straps to the body/frame.


"bobble headed" as far as I watched it. Didnt seem to concern the driver at all.
 

pumpkinbronc

ONETONPUMPKIN
Location
Mesquite, Nv
AINT SKEERED said:
I had my xj towed on a flat bed a while back. Professional job. Chains and hooks on both axles. The front hooks were on a winch mechanism. So to load the xj the driver tipped the flatbed hooked the chains to the rear axle and activated the winch. When the xj was on the flatbed he tipped it back flat and connected the chains to the front axle. Then he tightened the front chains with the winch. Put it in park and drove off. NO I repeat NO straps to the body/frame.


"bobble headed" as far as I watched it. Didnt seem to concern the driver at all.
It probably wouldnt concern him, a wrecker going across town thats probably all he needs, I just dont like it, thats my opinion thats all, I use to haul cars across country 10 at a time, had to keep em snugg and from bouncing I guess I'm just a creature of habit.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
AINT SKEERED said:
I had my xj towed on a flat bed a while back. Professional job. Chains and hooks on both axles. The front hooks were on a winch mechanism. So to load the xj the driver tipped the flatbed hooked the chains to the rear axle and activated the winch. When the xj was on the flatbed he tipped it back flat and connected the chains to the front axle. Then he tightened the front chains with the winch. Put it in park and drove off. NO I repeat NO straps to the body/frame.


"bobble headed" as far as I watched it. Didnt seem to concern the driver at all.


I used to drive a flatbed wrecker. I'd only use the mini-J hooks to the frame (using a CHAIN bridle) for the front and mini-J the rear to the frame (front and rear have factory hooks that are used when the vehicle is transported by train, boat or wrecker :D---just different flavors--mini-J, T-hook or traditional chain hook. If those don't work, the J-hook {about 16-18" long and about 8" wide will go over any axle or damaged rig} can be used.). I'd use the winch compress the suspension slightly so as it started moving around on the bed (they all do) it would stay taught. Towing with a flatbed wrecker is about the easiest way to do anything. PERFECT equipment for the job. You just have to worry about the rear chains staying taught (monitored from your mirrors).
 
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