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Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
I've been shooting for 112" on every rig since the Willys buggy. Didn't hit it very often, but love that length.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Mine's 107.5" but it's pretty low. 19" belly with 40"s. It won't go up Eagle's Nest because the belly is so low.
I'd need more belly height (like at least 21"+) if I went longer.
I feel like 21 road is more bouldery right?
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
While I was at it, I had to swing the LS under the hood.... oh my hell, there is SO MUCH ROOM FOR ACTIVITIES!! 😍😍😍

Fitting the LS is going to be easy, this is way better than the Willys. I should be able to run the TBSS intake that makes more torque down low. I remember that I ran the factory truck accessory drive on my old TJ, which is huge. There is plenty of room for the radiator and fan, but I will still probably go for a Camaro accessory drive. We will see... lots of things need to happen first.


i-3N72zv9-X2.jpg
With the Daves unlimited motor mounts moved 3/4" forward, I have plenty of firewall clearance at the heads. I also have at least an inch of accessory clearance on the Spall fan using truck accessories. The Camaro accessories were $$$$ and I didn't see any need to spend it when the truck stuff fit.

I'm not sure how much bigger an Atlas is than an NP241C but I am running the Tera skid with 1" body lift and it clears both the floor and the skid with plenty of room. I have a bunch of pic in my swap thread.
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Mine's 107.5" but it's pretty low. 19" belly with 40"s. It won't go up Eagle's Nest because the belly is so low.
I'd need more belly height (like at least 21"+) if I went longer.
I feel like 21 road is more bouldery right?
When was the last time you did eagles nest in that thing? Granted I haven't been to eagles nest since March 2017, but I went up it with 108" wheelbase and a 17" belly on 37s. That obstacle is definitely not what it was 20 years ago, and recent pics I've seen make it look smaller than it was in 2017.

@Greg I've never done a ton of research into running car offset accessories, mostly because of cost like @glockman said and because I've always had plenty of room with the truck accessories. I'm running all factory truck accessories, aside from a heavily modified alternator mount. I cut the PS pump mount off it and then built my own pump mount that tucked it higher and closer to the water pump. One more thought to consider about trying to clock the atlas flat...it will likely mean a 2 piece front driveshaft to be able to run around the bellhousing and maintain the uptravel that the frame kit will allow the axle to take advantage of. You may need a 2 piece shaft regardless of clocking though.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I never opened this thread based on the title. I really figured a 3” lift and 35’s is what I would see. It wasn’t until your IG post today that I realized the truth 🤦🏼‍♂️

Gotcha! X-D Compared to the Willys, this Wrangler is a bit lame.... kinda. ;)


Mine's 107.5" but it's pretty low. 19" belly with 40"s. It won't go up Eagle's Nest because the belly is so low.
I'd need more belly height (like at least 21"+) if I went longer.
I feel like 21 road is more bouldery right?

👍 My old TJ wouldn't climb Eagles Nest either, and I tried like hell too. A lot of it has to do with the shape of the frame as well as ground clearance. 21 Road is pretty much nothing but massive boulders, my old TJ was so low that it was very rough for me at times. If I slipped off my line, I was hung up on the belly. - https://www.rme4x4.com/threads/rme-trip-to-colorado-21-road-and-billings-canyon.113034/#post-1080946



With the Daves unlimited motor mounts moved 3/4" forward, I have plenty of firewall clearance at the heads. I also have at least an inch of accessory clearance on the Spall fan using truck accessories. The Camaro accessories were $$$$ and I didn't see any need to spend it when the truck stuff fit.

I'm not sure how much bigger an Atlas is than an NP241C but I am running the Tera skid with 1" body lift and it clears both the floor and the skid with plenty of room. I have a bunch of pic in my swap thread.

Very cool, I had the heads up against the firewall and there was plenty of trans tunnel space. I'll check out your thread, too!
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
@Greg I've never done a ton of research into running car offset accessories, mostly because of cost like @glockman said and because I've always had plenty of room with the truck accessories. I'm running all factory truck accessories, aside from a heavily modified alternator mount. I cut the PS pump mount off it and then built my own pump mount that tucked it higher and closer to the water pump. One more thought to consider about trying to clock the atlas flat...it will likely mean a 2 piece front driveshaft to be able to run around the bellhousing and maintain the uptravel that the frame kit will allow the axle to take advantage of. You may need a 2 piece shaft regardless of clocking though.

Mounting the PS pump up high enough is my biggest concern. My diff, truss and upper link will need to occupy about that same space. Aftermarket accy bracket kits aren't too much money and look so much cleaner than the chunky factory brackets, IMO.

I'm not against a 2 piece DS, but it could get interesting with the upper link & bracket in the same area. With a little body lift, I may be able to get the frame side link mount up even higher and out of the way. It's really hard to say at this point, really need to get the new front-half frame rails in and start mocking things up.
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
That was why I did my upper link on the passenger side. Not enough room on the driver side with the driveshaft and carrier bearing. I know the Novak engine mounts I have are pretty terrible for upper link clearance with lots of uptravel. It was tough to balance frame and axle vertical separation and still clear a heavily clearanced Novak mount and keep a straight upper link. I was tempted to cut them off and build my own. But I drew a line in the scope creep sand...:rofl:
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
That was why I did my upper link on the passenger side. Not enough room on the driver side with the driveshaft and carrier bearing. I know the Novak engine mounts I have are pretty terrible for upper link clearance with lots of uptravel. It was tough to balance frame and axle vertical separation and still clear a heavily clearanced Novak mount and keep a straight upper link. I was tempted to cut them off and build my own. But I drew a line in the scope creep sand...:rofl:

I was hoping to run my exhaust down the passenger side, plenty of space with a driver drop front axle!

So many things hanging in the balance until I can get the frame modified.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
That was why I did my upper link on the passenger side. Not enough room on the driver side with the driveshaft and carrier bearing. I know the Novak engine mounts I have are pretty terrible for upper link clearance with lots of uptravel. It was tough to balance frame and axle vertical separation and still clear a heavily clearanced Novak mount and keep a straight upper link. I was tempted to cut them off and build my own. But I drew a line in the scope creep sand...:rofl:


Definitely worth using XJ suspension bushings (or similar) for engine mounts
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Spent most of the day cleaning up, trying to organize my mess and making a dump run to unload useless TJ parts. Decided to go ahead and separate the frame from the body and prepare for the upcoming frame work.

i-ZxjQ2Dq-X2.jpg


The firewall had some grease and dirt on it and I really don't like working on dirty vehicles. I also wanted to clean it up so it looked good when showing the LS engine off. :)

I bolted some casters onto the tub, rolled it out of the shop and pressure washed it with some Simple Green. Also went around the open body lines, edges, inside the tub and the cowl vent blasting dirt out.

i-8Nz7rGS-X2.jpg

i-j4pzTDV-X2.jpg




I'll probably drag the frame out after it cools down a little (currently 106*'s!) and spray it off too.
 
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