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Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
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If you haven't tossed those coil bucket frame sections yet, I could use them.
They're attached to the rear 1/3 of frame... come get it!


Easiest way i've found to cut off the lower control arm mounts is to use a cutoff just inside of the weld and watch your depth so you don't cut into the frame. A hammer gets rid of them easy when you're most of the way through and the remaining weld/metal cleans up quick with a flap disc.

I think that's exactly how I cut off the lowers on my old TJ, probably going to use the same trick. Sure wish my p-cutter wasn't broken, it would make quick work of these brackets.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Oh, I took a 16# sledge hammer to the sides of the shock/spring tower to make room for my frame cuts. They're not really straight anymore, but with a torch and a hammer you could probably straighten them out.
No biggie. I was planning on buying some fabbed buckets, but a decent set of OEM's would be fancy enough for my girl.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Spent the day working on the 2WD 4L80E transmission, modifying it to work with the Atlas and factory GM adapter. Far as adapting the 4L80E to the Atlas, you can either buy a $250 adapter from Advanced OR use a short factory adapter for the 4L80E to NP241, cut the shaft and bolt up an Atlas. The 2WD also has two speed sensors inside the trans (versus the 4WD version), so you don't need one built into the adapter. There are two versions of the factory GM adapter... steel (hard to find) & aluminum that currently costs $65. I couldn't find a steel adapter, so aluminum it is!

Aluminum- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010GNWLIO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I had to chop 3.5" off the output shaft of the 4L80E and verify that the shaft didn't bottom out on the Atlas input shaft. You can do some serious damage if the shaft is bottoming out in the t-case! I used a cutoff wheel, carefully protected the transmission from metal shavings and went to town. I cleaned up the cut with a flap disc and added a bevel to the shaft splines so it slides into place easily.

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Once that was done, I bolted up the adapter and then the Atlas. It all looked good, so I bolted up the aluminum 5.3 mock up engine and rolled the engine/trans/t-case into place to mock it up and see where the floor needs to be cut for a flat belly.

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With everything in place, it doesn't look like I'll need to do too much cutting to get a flat belly with the big 4L80E and Atlas. The additional 1.25" body lift from the Artec Boat Side body mounts really helped. Maybe 1.5" more clearance at the tub under the drivers seat and transmission hump and I'll have it. I also removed the piece of sheetmetal that the factory seat mounts tie into using a spot weld cutting bit, as the seat mounts won't be getting used anyway. That gives me better access to the floor that needs to be cut and raised.

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So a little whining.... both UPS and FedEx have screwed up my recent parts orders. My Motobilt frame pieces were supposed to arrive yesterday (they were in Denver yesterday morning). Delivery has been pushed back until next Tuesday and I won't be home. I really wanted to start working on the frame setup and see how it will all fit together. Also, I ordered a Barnes 4WD TJ flat belly skidplate, but apparently FedEx has lost it. It was supposed to arrive last Tuesday, but the tracking hasn't been updated and they're saying no delivery ETA is available. :rolleyes:
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Our UPS guy was visibly unhappy with my delivery today.... 2 boxes weighing 240#'s together with the Motobilt frame and bumper parts and one fragile, fiberglass hood. :eek: I'll admit, I was pretty excited to see all these parts show up at once.

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And I got some great news regarding the 14" ORI Struts that I ordered 2 months ago, that had an ETA of September. I got a call from the Jensen Brothers and due to a cancelled order, they have a set of 4 Silver struts (I ordered Black) that a customer cancelled. They offered them to me and will be shipping out from the factory today!
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I've been wanting a Durham hood for about a decade. It would really clean mine up.
How much was shipping?

It was expensive, $200 for shipping alone. I asked Chris if he had any plans to around Moab/GJ any time soon to possibly save on shipping... but no dice. I paid full price on shipping costs.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Not wasting any time! Lookin good 😎

I don't have any time to waste, I'm getting tired of building with no reward of having a finished rig! I have a ton of work to do, but I'm hoping to bang out this TJ so I can go run hard trails sooner rather than later.


Holy crap, I can see why he'd not be so happy!
Looking good! I've never seen these frame kits before.

Those frame kits are killer, they make it super simple to make huge mods to a Jeep without too many complications.


This thing is so cool already!

Hopefully it'll be a complete frame after my next 'weekend', so I can start setting up the suspension!

Guess I'd better get to building that LS engine soon.... 😁
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Spent the morning in the shop, setting up the MotoBilt Front & Back Half frame kits. I was able to get both ends squared up and tacked into place, then raised the tub and frame to roll the axles under it, start setting up the 112" WB and seeing how things are going to fit. I also tacked up a couple of shock mounts, to see how the shocks are going to sit.

The frame rails are 3" higher in the front versus the rear, so I think I'll add a spacer between the rear of the frame and shock mounts in order to get the shocks to sit at about the same height as the front.

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Speaking of shocks.... these pretty things showed up a couple days ago! I ordered Black 14" ORI Struts from Jensen Bros in SLC and paid for them in May... and heard that they were back ordered until September. Well, they had a order cancelled with raw aluminum and they were available right away, so I went with them! I'm really excited to get the links set up, then start getting the shocks in place. I'd LOVE to have this thing a roller by this weekend, but I don't know that it'll happen. I still need to weld up a truss for the front axle.

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And I also went ahead with buying a TJ Roll Cage Builders kit from MotoBilt, it's going to make building a cage for the TJ super easy. I have a big decision to make though, the biggest die I have is 1 5/8"/.... it was a good size for the Willys, but I think I need to run larger tube. I'm considering buying a 1 3/4" die for my bender and using that size for this TJ. It just seems like a better fit... any input on tube size?

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