LS Swap 5.3 4I60e in 04 Jeep LJ.

[UNSTUCK]

You need to keep your Jeep ECM running if you want to use your stock gauges.
I like to drill and tap. Cheaper and less parts to leak down the road.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Also, I wouldn’t stress too much over the location of your ground wires. Just make sure the connections are good and that your terminal is contacting bare metal. Then make sure you have a good path back to your battery.

 

[85CUCVKRAWLER]

Well am using the jeep gauges, so probably easier to just run the sensors on the adapter

I dont understand what youre saying here? Your factory jeep sensors wont plug into those adapters you posted. And a stand alone LS harness isnt monitoring oil pressure or engine temp (well some do watch engine temp but thats a different story) so you wont be outputting a signal to plug into the Jeep ECM.

Your going to have to buy special sensors for those adapters that will output the ranges you need, then power them, then splice them into the Jeep ECM harness in order to keep your dash (which i personally think is a waste of time).

Honestly, i think you need to do a ton more reading on similar swaps before posting everything flying through your head on here.

Check out this FB group, then navigate to their files section and start reading (pro tip there is a pdf on there labelled "wiregauges")

https://www.facebook.com/groups/LSWranglers/about

 

[85CUCVKRAWLER]

Also, I wouldn’t stress too much over the location of your ground wires. Just make sure the connections are good and that your terminal is contacting bare metal. Then make sure you have a good path back to your battery.

Yeah, i just ground the block near the starter and both heads. I do this just by running a bolt into the head on an open threading and run 0 gauage wires to the frame. Even that ive read is over kill.

 

[glockman]

I dont understand what youre saying here? Your factory jeep sensors wont plug into those adapters you posted. And a stand alone LS harness isnt monitoring oil pressure or engine temp (well some do watch engine temp but thats a different story) so you wont be outputting a signal to plug into the Jeep ECM.

Your going to have to buy special sensors for those adapters that will output the ranges you need, then power them, then splice them into the Jeep ECM harness in order to keep your dash (which i personally think is a waste of time).

Honestly, i think you need to do a ton more reading on similar swaps before posting everything flying through your head on here.

Check out this FB group, then navigate to their files section and start reading (pro tip there is a pdf on there labelled "wiregauges")

https://www.facebook.com/groups/LSWranglers/about

I think he is going to use the OEM Jeep sensor, screwed into the adaptor to fit the GM hole, and use the jeep harness that already connects to the Jeep PCM and dash.

 

[mdbs14]

I think he is going to use the OEM Jeep sensor, screwed into the adaptor to fit the GM hole, and use the jeep harness that already connects to the Jeep PCM and dash.

That is the plan, however, my Jeep harness is missing the oil pressure and coolant temp plugs and wire, along with the cramshaft and camshaft sensors wires, so either I will have to trace those circuits and reconnect the pigtails or run standalone oil pressure and coolant temp gauges.

 

[glockman]

That is the plan, however, my Jeep harness is missing the oil pressure and coolant temp plugs and wire, along with the cramshaft and campshaft sensors wires, so either I will have to trace those circuits and reconnect the pigtails or run standalone oil pressure and coolant temp gauges.

If you are running the jeep gauge, go get the pigtails from a junkyard and splice them in. Or order new ones. I listed a few good parts sources in my build thread.

 

[mdbs14]

If you are running the jeep gauge, go get the pigtails from a junkyard and splice them in. Or order new ones. I listed a few good parts sources in my build thread.

Yeah, I will need to find the wiring diagram for those and tap into the wires, I think they are 3 wires on each plug.n

 

[mdbs14]

I dont understand what youre saying here? Your factory jeep sensors wont plug into those adapters you posted. And a stand alone LS harness isnt monitoring oil pressure or engine temp (well some do watch engine temp but thats a different story) so you wont be outputting a signal to plug into the Jeep ECM.

Your going to have to buy special sensors for those adapters that will output the ranges you need, then power them, then splice them into the Jeep ECM harness in order to keep your dash (which i personally think is a waste of time).

Honestly, i think you need to do a ton more reading on similar swaps before posting everything flying through your head on here.

Check out this FB group, then navigate to their files section and start reading (pro tip there is a pdf on there labelled "wiregauges")

https://www.facebook.com/groups/LSWranglers/about

Why do you think they wouldn't plug-in into those adapters?
Will run the gm coolant temp on the left side, the Jeep coolant temp on right side, and either relocated the rear oil plug to the rear left side above oil pan and run the Jeep sensor there.

 

[UNSTUCK]

You don’t need the cam or crank sensors. You will need the crank signal wire, and possibly the cam signal wire but probably not. Keep it just in case.

On a 2004 LJ:
Cam signal: tan/yellow wire to C1 pin 18.
Crank signal: gray/black wire to C1 pin 8.
Get the Novak emulator to convert the GM crank signal for the tach.


Oil press signal: gray/yellow wire to C2 pin 23.

Coolant Sensor
Pin 1: signal. Tan/black wire to C1 pin 16.
Pin 2: sensor ground. Black/LT blue wire to C1 pin 4.

IMPORTANT: C1 pin 4 is the K4 circuit we spoke about the other day. I misspoke and told you it grounded to the firewall. That’s wrong. All the K4’s get spliced together and terminate at C1 pin 4. All of K4 is black with LT blue.

 

[mdbs14]

You don’t need the cam or crank sensors. You will need the crank signal wire, and possibly the cam signal wire but probably not. Keep it just in case.

On a 2004 LJ:
Cam signal: tan/yellow wire to C1 pin 18.
Crank signal: gray/black wire to C1 pin 8.
Get the Novak emulator to convert the GM crank signal for the tach.


Oil press signal: gray/yellow wire to C2 pin 23.

Coolant Sensor
Pin 1: signal. Tan/black wire to C1 pin 16.
Pin 2: sensor ground. Black/LT blue wire to C1 pin 4.

IMPORTANT: C1 pin 4 is the K4 circuit we spoke about the other day. I misspoke and told you it grounded to the firewall. That’s wrong. All the K4’s get spliced together and terminate at C1 pin 4. All of K4 is black with LT blue.

You are right on, thanks for this. Yes, those k4 wires went to the crank and cam sensors, I combined thm into 1 wire and left it there to tap I to later.
My Novak emulator will be delivered today.

On C1 and C2, I have highlighted the wires to keep, but not sure if both wires are needed on C1 pin 2 and pin 13

 

[glockman]

FYI, I have a Novak emulator that I'd make you a fantastic deal on.

 

[mdbs14]

FYI, I have a Novak emulator that I'd make you a fantastic deal on.

tell me more

 

[UNSTUCK]

I always wire the starter circuit how GM wants it. So wouldn’t use/need pin 2 & 13. Send a crank signal to the ECM and let it control the relay.

 

[mdbs14]

I always wire the starter circuit how GM wants it. So wouldn’t use/need pin 2 & 13. Send a crank signal to the ECM and let it control the relay.

Possible to shine more light plz

 

[mdbs14]

Installed the gas pedal today. Had to size it down and twist it a little as it was too long. Will weld the nuts once am happy with where it seats. It feels good where it is now.

Credit goes to this guy on youtube link below.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Your “stand alone” harness should already have the crank circuit wired. It just needs the signal from your ignition switch. Does your harness have a starter relay?

 

[glockman]

Installed the gas pedal today. Had to size it down and twist it a little as it was too long. Will weld the nuts once am happy with where it seats. It feels good where it is now.

Credit goes to this guy on youtube link below.

Why not just bend the pedals so they mate and weld the strap? The nuts seem unnecessary.

 

[mdbs14]

Why not just bend the pedals so they mate and weld the strap? The nuts seem unnecessary.

With the nuts It's easier to adjust before welding.

 

[mdbs14]

Your “stand alone” harness should already have the crank circuit wired. It just needs the signal from your ignition switch. Does your harness have a starter relay?

Yes It does