My 1st build! '86 Runna
- Thread starter pELYgroso
- Start date
193kyle
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Chattanooga, TN
In that case may I suggest you have someone with some experience do all of the important welding, such as spring mounts, etc. We don't want this to be a rolling death trap!
BOB-CAT
THE PUNISHER
- Location
- Stansbury Park UT
Look at SAMI first gen. 4 runner his was cut out and extended the rear. Looked cool to me.
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Nice build
I'd loose the auto personally. The adapter is extra money that could be spent elsewhere. Some are happy with the early Toyota auto's most hate them :-\
On my Hilux I moved my rear axle back just over 2 inches and went with the F150 springs (they use stock Toyota shackle hangers), and I have Marlins rear bumper http://marlincrawler.com/armor/rear-bumper/rear-bumper-hilux-trucks-and-4runners I still hang up on the really nasty ledges, but it's night and day better than it was. I would not bob the Runner keeping the extra space is well worth it imo
Keep the pics coming!
I'd loose the auto personally. The adapter is extra money that could be spent elsewhere. Some are happy with the early Toyota auto's most hate them :-\
On my Hilux I moved my rear axle back just over 2 inches and went with the F150 springs (they use stock Toyota shackle hangers), and I have Marlins rear bumper http://marlincrawler.com/armor/rear-bumper/rear-bumper-hilux-trucks-and-4runners I still hang up on the really nasty ledges, but it's night and day better than it was. I would not bob the Runner keeping the extra space is well worth it imo
Keep the pics coming!
here's a little problem I ran into last night. The spot that I wanted to mount the hanger was right on the "hump" of the frame, so I cut out a piece of steel to wedge into the gap, ground down a little seat for the hanger to rest on, and welded it up.
AM I DOING THIS WRONG?
I plan on gusseting the hanger further. hopefully it'll hold.:-\
my welds are pretty ugly but I was pleased with them for being my 1st welds besides tinkering around. If somebody would like to come give a brotha a welding lesson/ add some better beads to my welds, please let me know when you can! I'm in downtown Lehi
AM I DOING THIS WRONG?
I plan on gusseting the hanger further. hopefully it'll hold.:-\
my welds are pretty ugly but I was pleased with them for being my 1st welds besides tinkering around. If somebody would like to come give a brotha a welding lesson/ add some better beads to my welds, please let me know when you can! I'm in downtown Lehi
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is this a good shackle angle? The shackle will be resting right at the end of the frame which is perfect!
it looks like I'll need to cut off the stock bump stop to mount the buggy leaf.
with the chevies on, it gives about 3" of lift (at full droop) over the stock leafs. (perfect)
and, it looks like the axle will be moved back 4.5 inches.
I think I decided on ditching the auto after all your feedback. although it is nice to have, I've got the manual all set up to go and I can use the $ that I'll save from not buying the adapter for other things. AND since I'm building the thrasher back up as a daily driver, I won't need to buy another t case for it since i'm taking it's duals. I'll just throw in the auto with it's t case and be done. saving money is gooooooood.
it looks like I'll need to cut off the stock bump stop to mount the buggy leaf.
with the chevies on, it gives about 3" of lift (at full droop) over the stock leafs. (perfect
)and, it looks like the axle will be moved back 4.5 inches.
I think I decided on ditching the auto after all your feedback. although it is nice to have, I've got the manual all set up to go and I can use the $ that I'll save from not buying the adapter for other things. AND since I'm building the thrasher back up as a daily driver, I won't need to buy another t case for it since i'm taking it's duals. I'll just throw in the auto with it's t case and be done. saving money is gooooooood.
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Looking good I like your plans but I might add a few things about "the thrasher":
It should already have a hydro ready PS box at least it did when I sold it. Remember when you transfer the box to mount it as far forward on the frame as you can you may have to cut some sheet metal.
The tranny is a G52 not a W56 ie forward shift front box. But it should still work for you.
As has been mentioned I would definately keep it as low as possible and do 35's they will be plenty for most trails and over kill for most expo stuff.
Depending on how much extreme to expo type stuff you may want to trade the front welded diff for an open or more preferable selectable locker. I thought having a welded front end made things really annoying at times...
And definitely do not bob it. You'll want the room I promise!
It should already have a hydro ready PS box at least it did when I sold it. Remember when you transfer the box to mount it as far forward on the frame as you can you may have to cut some sheet metal.
The tranny is a G52 not a W56 ie forward shift front box. But it should still work for you.
As has been mentioned I would definately keep it as low as possible and do 35's they will be plenty for most trails and over kill for most expo stuff.
Depending on how much extreme to expo type stuff you may want to trade the front welded diff for an open or more preferable selectable locker. I thought having a welded front end made things really annoying at times...
And definitely do not bob it. You'll want the room I promise!
Thanks for the info! so the ps box on the thrasher is already drilled and tapped? that would be great! The runner has a ps box already. are you saying that I shouldn't leave it in it's stock location?
I'm already looking into a different front 3rd. my wife will be driving this to work in the winter and i don't want the welded front engaged in the snow!
what's the difference between the w56 and g52?
big cherokee
a.r.c fabrication
- Location
- layton
as far as swaping trans you will have to swap ecm from truck to truck and
also wire in the control module for the auto in front of the shifter.
i like the spring placement. box the back of the frame in and thats a good start for the rear bumper
that 4 runner will pep up with the manual for sure.
also wire in the control module for the auto in front of the shifter.
i like the spring placement. box the back of the frame in and thats a good start for the rear bumper
that 4 runner will pep up with the manual for sure.
Yep check and make sure it didn't get swapped out but the one I put on it had been drilled and tapped by Von at the cool Rock Logic.
pELYgroso said:
I forgot that the runner already had the right box because it is post 85 I'm not sure exactly how it is set up, but when you swap to crossover steering on a pre 85 it is important to push the box as far forward as possible. I imagine there is plenty of info out there from people that have done a SAS, and what they do.
pELYgroso said:
I don't know all the info on it, you could check out the tech info on Pirate or maybe someone else will chime in here. If I remember right the W56 is a little stronger, but it probably isn't worth the hassle to switch because you would have to swap the front case of the dual cases
As far as your welds go, the spatter is from having your wire speed a little too slow..
Check out these welding video's.. The videos may take quite a while to download depending on your computer speed, but they are definately worth it... Scroll down on the page until you see the links that I have selected in the included picture. These links will take you to his YouTube video logs. These links will help you know what to look for when trying to fine tune your welder to make a quality and aesthetically pleasing weld.
Link----> Tony Welding Intsruction Videos <--- Link
Check out these welding video's.. The videos may take quite a while to download depending on your computer speed, but they are definately worth it... Scroll down on the page until you see the links that I have selected in the included picture. These links will take you to his YouTube video logs. These links will help you know what to look for when trying to fine tune your welder to make a quality and aesthetically pleasing weld.
Link----> Tony Welding Intsruction Videos <--- Link
The Stranger
Stranger Danger
- Location
- Draper Utah
When I did did the axle swap on my 86 I installed High Steer with the stock steering box in the stock location and it worked just fine.
perfect, I'll prob just install the drilled and tapped box in the stock location then and run the hydro assist eventually.
THANKS for those welding videos! I'm sure they'll help!
a little progress....
WE worked on the runner tonight. removed driver side rear spring and were in the process of cutting stuff off the frame when we ran out of torch gas...so we started welding on the new spring hanger....then we ran out of welding wire. then wifee got bored and went inside while I ground smooth the passenger frame where I then mounted the buggy leaf.
I'm not sure if I like the fact that the buggy leaf doesn't extend past the clamps on the frame. It has to be like that though because on the inside of the frame, just behind where the clamps are, is the brake proportioning valve thingy, so I can't move the clamps any more towards the rear of the frame.
QUESTIONS: does the buggy spring clamp location look ok? can I tack weld the spring clamp to the buggy leaf and the leaf to the frame, just to keep them all in place for sure? Does the shackle angle still look ok, or too much angle? (It will even have a little more angle probably once the weight of the runner flattens the springs a little more.)
WE
worked on the runner tonight. removed driver side rear spring and were in the process of cutting stuff off the frame when we ran out of torch gas...so we started welding on the new spring hanger....then we ran out of welding wire. then wifee got bored and went inside while I ground smooth the passenger frame where I then mounted the buggy leaf. I'm not sure if I like the fact that the buggy leaf doesn't extend past the clamps on the frame. It has to be like that though because on the inside of the frame, just behind where the clamps are, is the brake proportioning valve thingy, so I can't move the clamps any more towards the rear of the frame.
QUESTIONS: does the buggy spring clamp location look ok? can I tack weld the spring clamp to the buggy leaf and the leaf to the frame, just to keep them all in place for sure? Does the shackle angle still look ok, or too much angle? (It will even have a little more angle probably once the weight of the runner flattens the springs a little more.)
