James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
Hickey said:Yeah, but it was cuz my parts were so long
ok................mister fantasy
My 4 Link buildup
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
ok................mister fantasy
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Yeah, my D-Shaft is quite long... wheelbase of 108". I'll see if I can get an exact measurement.
Just for refrence, I'm going to be building the 4 Link for 40" tires.... 10" of verticle seperation at the axle end.
I'm thinking of making the upper link, frame-end brackets adjustable 4 ways, each one 1" apart. That's mainly the reason I want to stay behind the X-member, being able to build a larger mount, having alot of anti-squat tunability.
Just for refrence, I'm going to be building the 4 Link for 40" tires....
10" of verticle seperation at the axle end. I'm thinking of making the upper link, frame-end brackets adjustable 4 ways, each one 1" apart. That's mainly the reason I want to stay behind the X-member, being able to build a larger mount, having alot of anti-squat tunability.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Greg said:Yeah, my D-Shaft is quite long... wheelbase of 108". I'll see if I can get an exact measurement.
Just for refrence, I'm going to be building the 4 Link for 40" tires....
I'm thinking of making the upper link, frame-end brackets adjustable 4 ways, each one 1" apart. That's mainly the reason I want to stay behind the X-member, being able to build a larger mount, having alot of anti-squat tunability.
I was planning on making it adjustable at both ends. Your hole will have to be more than 1" apart though. Unless you were meaning edge of hole to edge of hole vs. center to center.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Hickey said:
Both ends, huh? 2 holes on the Diff, 4 on the Frame?
How about 1.25" apart, on center?
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Maybe only one hole for the lowers at the axle, but I would like 2 or three for the uppers at the axle, to really adjust the roll center.Greg said:
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
I don't really see any need to have more than one set of holes on the dif end. Ten inches seperation sounds good to me.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
But why lock yourself out of the extra tunability? Is more seperation bad?RockMonkey said:
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
You'll have more than enough "tunability" if you do multiple bolt holes on the frame end. Personally I'd just set it right the first time, and only do one set of holes on both ends.Hickey said:
I have a prediction of my own about which set of holes he's gonna end up using, but I'll just keep it to myself.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Jeremy... In response to your PM, (I'm posting this here, since it's valuable technical info)
I understand what you're talking about, Rockfangs VS lots 'O Anti-Squat. I think this is the point where you actually need to see the truck. My T-Case skid plate hangs down about 4" from the frame, and I was planning on building the Lower Link Crossmember to sit at a max of 2" below the frame. From my measurements, this should put the Upper Mounts about 4-6 inches above the Lowers. Wouldn't that be about right?
I understand what you're talking about, Rockfangs VS lots 'O Anti-Squat. I think this is the point where you actually need to see the truck. My T-Case skid plate hangs down about 4" from the frame, and I was planning on building the Lower Link Crossmember to sit at a max of 2" below the frame. From my measurements, this should put the Upper Mounts about 4-6 inches above the Lowers. Wouldn't that be about right?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Hickey said:
I think 10" is of verticle seperation is plenty. I don't see a need for 2 holes at the axle, especially if there's 4 of 'em, 1.25" apart at the uppers. 5" of adjustibility ought to be plenty.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Yup. I am basing all of my guesses off my experience, and that was with a flat belly, so all of the mounts could be much lower on your truck, which could make all of my crossmember whining useless. Like I said before, all of this is just talk until we crawl around under the truck for a few hours. I forgot how tall Toy cases are.Greg said:
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I Lean said:Keep in mind that there is another thing that affects whether the pinion will drop when the suspension does, or not....the amount of horizontal convergence of the links. Even if the uppers are shorter than the lowers, if they converge toward the front they'll tend to keep the pinion pointed toward the Tcase. Just like everything else, it's a balance/trade-off kinda deal.
That said, you're right in putting the other considerations first--but when you say it won't be getting aired out....I'm guessing you're wrong.
Yeah, so there!
You're right, it may get jumped once in awhile. I guess the point I was trying to make that was that I'm not building a Desert Racing Trophy Truck, otherwise I'd be using a totally diffrent design.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Hickey said:Yup. I am basing all of my guesses off my experience, and that was with a flat belly, so all of the mounts could be much lower on your truck, which could make all of my crossmember whining useless. Like I said before, all of this is just talk until we crawl around under the truck for a few hours. I forgot how tall Toy cases are.
No worries, it's good to talk this out.
I would like to raise the T-Case a couple inches eventually, but I don't think it would be much more than 2". If the X-member was 2" below the frame & I raised the T-Case 2", then the X-member would make a good rear mount for the 'flat-ish' skidplate.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I realize that.Greg said:
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
That's a good thing to plan for. When I went to a flat belly, it turned out to be one of the biggest changes in performance I ever did to the Jeep.Greg said:No worries, it's good to talk this out.
I would like to raise the T-Case a couple inches eventually, but I don't think it would be much more than 2". If the X-member was 2" below the frame & I raised the T-Case 2", then the X-member would make a good rear mount for the 'flat-ish' skidplate.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Greg said:
Driveshaft is approx. 40-42" long.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Here's better pics of the rear axle. My axle bridge drawing is in the works now...
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Here's what I'm thinking about...
Probably out of 1/4" plate, 2.5" wide. I'm not exactally if it would be that tall, just need to take in to account 10" of verticle seperation. Plus, my Fuel Cell sits somewhat above this area.
Probably out of 1/4" plate, 2.5" wide. I'm not exactally if it would be that tall, just need to take in to account 10" of verticle seperation. Plus, my Fuel Cell sits somewhat above this area.