TEAM FRED
Registered User
- Location
- Centerville
Still running spicer joints with 4340 shafts. No problems hereI Lean said:
Outer Stub Shafts
- Thread starter Shawn
- Start date
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
Me too...And mine are the smaller D44 joints/stuff...But with 35" tires and 4.10 gears...TEAM FRED said:
Todd Adams
Grammy's Spotter
- Location
- Salt Lake City
Shawn,Shawn said:So, for the price, after doing some research, it looks like Yukon inner/outers and spicer 5-806X joints is the ticket.
$555.00 for the shafts
$30.00 for the joints
$for the slugs
Sweet...
Why would you go with cm shafts and these joints? Do you still drive it on the road?
Todd
price, the best price I have found for CTM's is $220.00. Most joints like this are in the $300.00-500.00 range for the pair. That is just ridiculous to pay that kind of money. I have never see a spicer joint fail, then again, I don't get out much...Todd Adams said:
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
Does this make a difference? Can you not drive CTM's (style) on the road?Todd Adams said:
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
- Location
- Hiding behind a camera
DetroitShawn said:
CTM (and similar joints) aren't supposed to be used on the road, just due to wear issues since they don't use needle bearings. It's not that they wouldn't work, they've just chosen to trade away long life in favor of brute strength.
I chose to upgrade only the shafts and not the joints because of pure cost, and the fact that I personally haven't damaged a stock joint yet.
I chose to upgrade only the shafts and not the joints because of pure cost, and the fact that I personally haven't damaged a stock joint yet.
If you do run a rig on the street, why not have selectable hubs? This would get rid of the excess wear problem on needle-less joints.
I run selectable hubs and carry slugs with me. Some times I just like to unlock the front end completely and blast down the dirt roads in 2wd.
I run selectable hubs and carry slugs with me. Some times I just like to unlock the front end completely and blast down the dirt roads in 2wd.
Man I have do a TON of reading on the Yukon shafts and Lonfield joints. I'm also finding that it is not uncommon for the shafts to break before the spicer joint fails. If I find the best deal in town on the shafts I will let you all know and you can PM me for the results. I'm really leaning toward the longfields.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
I can understand that thought.. But that's not how I read what he said. It sounded like you shouldn't run the CTM's on the street. I'm thinking about doing a CTM style joint, and my rig is not trailered, so if this is a problem I would like to know before spending that kind of $'s. I haven't decided to do that yet, because my Spicers are holding up just fine. But like everything else, for how long?Shawn said:
Todd Adams
Grammy's Spotter
- Location
- Salt Lake City
waynehartwig said:
From my experience it has been a combination of factors that contribute to joint and yoke failures. The first thing that happens is the cap loosens in the yoke bore. Full circle snap rings help quite a bit but if the cap gets loose in the bore then it is just a matter of time that it will fail and take out at least one yoke, this is a repeated stress failure. I ran shafts with both full circle snap rings as well as a set I welded the caps to the yokes. Both sets are now spares but they took a lot of abuse without a failure.
The times that we have broken a joint from shock is when the wheel is turned. The same thing can happen when the wheels are straight but usually results in a shaft breaking. You can tell if you have a shock or stress failure in a shaft the way it breaks. If it looks like it was cut straight off then this was a repeated stress failure. A shock failure results in a diagonal fracture usually splintering off a triangle shaped piece.
I know a lot people who have used needle bearing joints with chrome molly shafts with no problems and the reason I asked Shawn was this was a better way to go if you drive on the street. Locking hubs become the weak link with strong axles and the bronze bushing cm joints don’t hold up well to street driving. I guess you have to decide where your fuse is or should be. I found mine this year when I took out a ring and pinion doing a front burn.
Todd
I am running yukon inners and outers (35 spline alloy) and spicer 806 joints, with lockouts (hubs) hoping they will be the weak link. Those are huge joints and I haven't heard of too many people breaking them, but it does happen. Pretty cheap to replace though!
I figured I would try the stock joints first, and if I break a few I will go stronger, if I don't I've saved a LOT of money. Still need to find a spare hub though, just need one.
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
- Location
- Hiding behind a camera
Cody said:
I'll take that bet
fergusor
Registered User
- Location
- Clearfield, ut
Shawn said:
That why I went with Alloy USA. I didnt want gamble on getting a good set.
On the other hand yukon has beefed up the ears on there shafts,
Longfield joints are newer, but he has had them in comp buggies with no problems.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Todd Adams
Grammy's Spotter
- Location
- Salt Lake City
With customer service like that, why would you not buy Yukons?
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
What did you find interesting about it, the gerble talk or the warranty?mbryson said: