- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
If you plan to drive onto the trailer without ramps you should consider adding some drop legs at the rear corners to keep your trailer frame from bending.
Yep, was looking at them earlier today.
If you plan to drive onto the trailer without ramps you should consider adding some drop legs at the rear corners to keep your trailer frame from bending.
I'm still working on the trailer rebuild and it's coming along, but I really want to add a winch (probably a Harbor Freight 5k 🤢 ). I'd rather have a Warn winch, but I doubt this will get used often and if someone decides they want it more than me, I'm not out much. With the 20% discount, they're just over $100. I think 5k will be more than enough for a trailer, to drag a dead rig up the ramps.
So far as powering the winch, with the Round 7 pin connector, I'll have a 12V power lead on the trailer, coming from the truck. It's not a big wire, but I'm curious if it would be enough to keep a battery topped off whenever the trailer is hooked up, for the occasional winch use? Of course, it won't be a heavy load and probably not more than 20' of winching at a time when used, just to load a possible dead vehicle.
Thoughts?
That will be enough to charge the battery, if you tow the trailer every couple days. If you're like me, the trailer will sit for much longer periods of time between uses generally. So your battery will be dead every time you try to use it. (and dead batteries stop taking a charge pretty quickly also)
I wanted to put a small solar panel on it, to keep the battery maintained. But then I didn't do that, and I ended up with no battery at all--I need to grab a battery any time I want to use the winch. That has worked out well, since I need the winch once every few years.
My dump trailer runs off a battery that's charged through the pigtail from the truck. It also has a receptacle to plug it in to a 110 outlet ifs it gonna sit for along time. I haven't had any problems with the battery and I've never plugged it into 110.
Get the wood on!!! Looks good.
(I’ll bring down a 28’ unit and we can redo that deck )
Ok that’s a ton of work. Nice job man.
Looks good. Best thing I’ve done to my flat bed was add reverse lights (center pin on the 7 prong rv plug most trailers have). Just one more thing to do “while you’re at it”
Looks good. Best thing I’ve done to my flat bed was add reverse lights (center pin on the 7 prong rv plug most trailers have). Just one more thing to do “while you’re at it”
When I designed the tail lights for my tj that I had @skippy machine when he was at a machine shop...I bought several sets of led “Jeep” tail lights from some led online place. I had a set left over and mounted them to my trailer.I was looking at these, I'm thinking 2 per corner along the back? - 3/4" Clearance Marker Light
Stop by my house on your way and throw my trailer on top of yours. You can do it too.Get the wood on!!! Looks good.
(I’ll bring down a 28’ unit and we can redo that deck )
Nice. Hope that tractor supply paint worked well for you! That is the same stuff and color I'm using on the bed of the Freightliner.
I actually painted this roof and roll cage I built for my last RZR with the stuff from tractor supply. With that catalyst it held up fantastic and the price is right.
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You might want to give some credit to the disposable Hobo Freight paint gun as well.Brought to you by Tractor Supply paint- "When you need cheap paint, think of Tractor Supply!" Voted #1 paint by backyard painters with low expectations and poor eyesight! Seriously, don't paint your car with this stuff."