LT.
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Los Alamos, New Mexico
I meant to say, you're going to want to gear it lower than what it would take to match the speedo to stock. so if 4.10's put the speedo at stock, think about going the next size lower. You're just factoring in the diameter of the tire, not the extra weight that it's turning. If you run 4.10s, it'll feel like you're pulling an empty trailer around everywhere due to the extra weight of turning these big tires. Not sure if that makes sense.
An excellent point. And one I have been thinking of quite a bit here lately. No body wants to re gear more than once so it really is important to get this right the first time out. What I think is going to happen is I will try and decide on a tire size first, order them up, install them on the truck, and see how the truck responds to the tires with the stock gears. I will hook up my heavy trailer and throw a couple of tractors on it and take it for an extended drive. Maybe even play with which gear the truck is pulling in and see how the corresponding rpm's handle the weight. Since we can figure out what the engine rpm's will be with a different set of gears this maybe the answer for the ring and pinion ratio.
On a side note, I was also trying to diagnose the small problem that seems to be developing on the truck. More than one individual stated that changing tires seemed to solve their issues. Since I need tires anyways this maybe where I start. The problem with most of the reading I have done on the internet it seems like most folks just throw money at the problem until it goes away. Few take the time to really look under the truck, or check the alignment. I got under the truck while it was on the 4 post alignment rack and started really looking at things. While I really did not see any signs of wear I did notice an issue with the 2" lift I put under the front end. When you just a simple spacer to gain added clearance (think leveling kit) there are no provisions to re-center the axle under the truck laterally. When the lift is put on it pulls the front axle to the drivers side about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. This puts the locating links in a bit of a bind to the drivers side. Now, you can put on an adjustable track bar but, the issue with most aftermarket track bars is they use a heim joint. This translates into more road vibrations being sent to the steering wheel. Not something I want on my tow rig. So, the proper way to get the truck to match up to my big trailer is to lift it by using a quality suspension lift that has a track bar relocation bracket and all the necessary pieces to gain some altitude and keep everything in check. This is more of a goal towards the end of the year though.
LT.