- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
For the dash, just buy a nice sheet metal brake. Bonus if you can source a used one that is also a good sized press brake.
Jeep Speed Goat TJ, the anti-build thread
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I have a manual 36" HF brake, it's not 'nice' but should do the job for aluminum. I can also TIG aluminum if needed. Just need to figure out how to make it all come together and not look like poo.
On the hood, I still have this fiberglass gel-coated one in the shed I would love to get rid of...
You have had a lot more experience with newer GM LS type motors so I respect your knowledge of the cooling. I've only had a couple of them in my rigs, but they've both run between 200 and 210 degrees. I was freaked out at first when the Willys buggy ran that hot, but after some research I heard it was normal. My current LS1 runs that hot and seems to be fine. I am actually looking for a different fan that doesn't sound like a jet taking off.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'd have to chop it up quite a bit and paint it, I think it'll be easier to just repair my broken hood... but I appreciate the offer!
This LS3 gets heat soak IMO, I think the radiator isn't large enough and/or isn't getting enough air flow without a radiator shroud. It's OK most of the time, but when its hot out and I'm working the engine it gets hotter & hotter. If I don't let it cool down for 20+ min, it'll get to 240-245*'s which is HOT even for a LS. I'm not sure if I should upgrade to a bigger/better radiator or just see if the new shroud and higher CFM fan is enough. I'll try the shroud and better fan first, since I have those parts.
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
What radiator and fan do you have now? The Jeep grill doesn’t give much room for a bigger radiator. Does anyone make a three row? I only know of two row radiators. The other option is cutting up the grill and ditching the factory headlight sockets. I just got the spal 3xxx cfm 45 amp fan. Hoping that will do the trick and not be too loud.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I believe it's a Flexalite radiator (TJ LS swap aluminum), the fan is also a cheap Flexalite. They don't seem to make that radiator anymore, so I can't find specs for it. I did find the CFM for the fan and it's pretty low. The Spal I have is similar to yours, I think it's double the CFM of what I have now. It should move a lot more air and the shroud will make it pull air thru the entire radiator, which should really help.
I'll probably have to move my radiator forward to clear the bigger fan, which is fine but my hydraulic steering cooler is in the way... so another thing I'd have to relocate.
UPNO4
Addicted
- Location
- Lindon, Ut
As far as the switch panel thoughts I have had a cheap switch panel not an Auxbeam but a similar relay relay style. The relays were fine but antiquated, the switch panel was terrible buttons were sticky and I hated it. I have the Switch Pro 9100 now and couldn't be happier from the setup to the panel feel and all. Jake and I both have them actually and he had an issue with his, I think it was caused by the PCM failing and overcharging the battery and running at 15.4 volts, but when we called them asking questions and telling them about the PCM failure they asked for the brain to be sent in and they fixed or replaced in 2 days, either way they sent it back no charge. Customer service WIN for sure. I called them from the lineup during Vernal Rock rally and they gave us a temp fix even. Worth it in my book.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I have a 16 inch spal fan pulling through a Superior radiator with a shroud. The jeep can idle in 95 degree weather for 20 minutes and never gets over 215 with the fan turn on set to 205. It pulls some serious amperage though. The idle dips a little when it kicks on.
I am going to put some sort of pulse modulating fan controller in. Maybe this one.
www.summitracing.com
This way I can start the fan at say 10% around 195 and then ramp it up from there, vs the on/off at 205.
I am going to put some sort of pulse modulating fan controller in. Maybe this one.
Derale Cooling Products 16797 Derale PWM Adjustable Fan Controller Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Derale PWM Adjustable Fan Controller Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fan Switches at Summit Racing.
This way I can start the fan at say 10% around 195 and then ramp it up from there, vs the on/off at 205.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
That's good to hear, exactly what I was looking for. I'm sure there is a huge quality difference when you look at the price difference. For me, this switch panel will be running my engine Start and Stop as well as some other critical devices, I need it to work every time and be reliable. Thanks for the info!
I have a 16 inch spal fan pulling through a Superior radiator with a shroud. The jeep can idle in 95 degree weather for 20 minutes and never gets over 215 with the fan turn on set to 205. It pulls some serious amperage though. The idle dips a little when it kicks on.
I am going to put some sort of pulse modulating fan controller in. Maybe this one.
Derale Cooling Products 16797 Derale PWM Adjustable Fan Controller Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Derale PWM Adjustable Fan Controller Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fan Switches at Summit Racing.
This way I can start the fan at say 10% around 195 and then ramp it up from there, vs the on/off at 205.
Nice, thanks for sharing! I did adjust my fan temperatures earlier this year and lowered the point it comes on, then adjust it so it's not 100% initially.
UPNO4
Addicted
- Location
- Lindon, Ut
PWM fans are cool. I like that you can control the percentage of the fan speed.
Dave used the https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lpe-l460320002 fan controller and a Camaro fan. once adjusted it seems to really perform keeps his Hemi cool in the JK
Dave used the https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lpe-l460320002 fan controller and a Camaro fan. once adjusted it seems to really perform keeps his Hemi cool in the JK
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
No, PWM will only work with brushed motors. Brushless motors are 3 phase motors and always require a brushless controller to run. PWM is just a method of turning the motor on and off rapidly.
jpndave
Member
- Location
- Hyde Park, UT
Incorrect, PWM is not exclusive to brushed motors or to motors only for that matter. It is used in lighting and other applications as well. @UPNO4 post only 2 above your post is an example of a brushless controller WITH PWM. Pulse Width Modulation is a way to vary the amount of time voltage is applied on vs off to giving a similar result to lowering the voltage without the disadvantages of the lower voltage. It is pulsed rapidly so that is for all practical purposes appears on solid. 20% on/80% off gives ~20% power level.
Yes, in a DC system a brushless motor does require a controller but that controller/circuit can use PWM as evidenced above. It changes the speed by how fast it rotates the applied phases around the motor. I can also regulate the amount of power or current by using PWM to apply the phases a lower percentage "on".
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
Thanks for the correction. I am used to the simple PWM controllers for brushed motors and the more complicated speed controllers needed for brushless motors. I didn't realize that, after doing the motor controller magic to make the brushless motor turn, they then used PWM on the output to adjust the speed.
Yes, but some controllers are able to be programmed/switched to work for either (just not at the same time). If you aren't varying the speed a brushed motor doesn't need a controller, you can just give it voltage and it will run. Add a resistor and it will run slower. DC brushless motors always need a controller to run.
Kiel
Formerly WJ ZUK
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
If you're still looking at PWM fan controllers I came across this one that I really like. It for use on brushed fans. The developer worked for Spal for 16 years and sounds like he knows his way around engine cooling. I like that it uses a thread in temp sensor instead of the stick on sensor Derale uses.
creativewerksinc.com
Anyone know anything about the quality of this unit?
PWM Controller – Creative Werks Inc.
creativewerksinc.com
Anyone know anything about the quality of this unit?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Been working on this when I can, trying to catch up & get it ready for wheelin!
I haven't been able to fix the hood corners and the latches where they broke from the roll in Sand Hollow, so I added these super tight Quik-Latch hood pins at the grill to secure the broken fiberglass hood. They seem to work great, low profile and simple.
Next up, install the upgraded & higher CFM Spal fan & fan shroud... I bought a fancy, custom shroud, but with the bigger motor it didn't fit! I ended up fabbing a new flat, low-profile shroud and added some dimple die holes to strengthen it up. It took a few hours to fabricate, but it turned out well! I added a bunch of weather stripping around the edges, to ensure air was being pulled ONLY thru the radiator.
Previous setup...
New fan & shroud...
I fired the TJ up in the shop and let it get up to temp... at 180-185* the fan turned on and it pulls some air!! Watched the temp gauge and it dropped to 165* when the thermostat opened, like a proper heat exchanger should. Between the higher CFM fan and new shroud, I think I've finally resolved my overheating issue! I need to get it out on the trail to verify, but I think it's GTG.
I haven't been able to fix the hood corners and the latches where they broke from the roll in Sand Hollow, so I added these super tight Quik-Latch hood pins at the grill to secure the broken fiberglass hood. They seem to work great, low profile and simple.
Next up, install the upgraded & higher CFM Spal fan & fan shroud... I bought a fancy, custom shroud, but with the bigger motor it didn't fit! I ended up fabbing a new flat, low-profile shroud and added some dimple die holes to strengthen it up. It took a few hours to fabricate, but it turned out well! I added a bunch of weather stripping around the edges, to ensure air was being pulled ONLY thru the radiator.
Previous setup...
New fan & shroud...
I fired the TJ up in the shop and let it get up to temp... at 180-185* the fan turned on and it pulls some air!! Watched the temp gauge and it dropped to 165* when the thermostat opened, like a proper heat exchanger should. Between the higher CFM fan and new shroud, I think I've finally resolved my overheating issue! I need to get it out on the trail to verify, but I think it's GTG.