Steve's 81 Toyota "angelo" build

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Tomorrow I'll get the twin stick in, mount up the rear driveline, bleed the brakes, and get it moving! I'll try and put the top on the tunnel too, and get the underside herculined.

If there's time I'll work on getting the bed to work.
 

AlienXtx

Member
how do you do that? I assume that by me just filling up the tank more it slowly bled itself. I know brandon is having the same problem with his rig.

Haha...yeah it will bleed itself out just make sure you have full charge on your battery and a good starter because the only way to turn that mech pump is by turning the engine.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I am at my witt's end. I've been trying to get the top shift rail out for the past 2 hours. I got the pin out, but the rail won't move.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
yeah, I tried all that. I had to strip the case all apart and whack on it with a hammer from the back. It still wouldn't move. For some reason I decided to shift the passenger side fork forward (after the case was in pieces, of course) and then the driver's side moved. I have no clue what the problem was, but I finally got it back together.

Only I could take a 10 minute project and turn it into a 4 hour project. Needless to say I'm quite frustrated right now.
 

Panos

12Volt Specialist
Location
Salt lake City
its really turning out good though, all your hard work and carefully thought out decisions will pay off. soon you will be having fun with it
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Well, everything's hooked up, I just need fluids then I'll take it for a spin around the block.


Mechanical - DONE
- IFS Box mount - done
- Steering Shaft Lengthened - done
- Hydro-assist
- PS pump mountend - done
- Install twin-stick & triple-drilled flanges

Exterior
- build gas tank mounts - done
- new bed mounts
- Brakes - manual prop valve and extended lines - done
- Fix and re-torque pass-side hub - done
- shorten rear DS
- get front DS done (take measurements with it flexed out)
- New Exhaust
- fix the fuses I smashed with a hammer
- new windshield
- Shocks and shock mounts
- extend fuel lines to reach the new fuel tank location - done
- herculine the underside of the tunnel - done
- Herculine tunnel
- seam seal rear sheet metal, tunnel, and inner fenders
- Weld up the lower inner fenders

Interior
- clearance horseshoe collar - done
- tranny/tcase flat belly mount - done
- Tranny tunnel install - done
- Replace back of cab - done
- Floor Install - done
- Seat install
- Fender Tub - done
- Put Dash back together
- Install heater lines - done

Not absolute necessities
- Figure out how to hook up ebrake (not a priority before 9/10/10), possibly add taco rear drums
- bed bob
- modify carb to run at steep angles.


Notes of things to check before driving it.

- trany - fluid
- t-cases - fluid
- Gas - done
- Radiator/Heater - Atifreeze - done
- Brake (bleed)
- Steering (bleed) - done
- front diff - fluid
- check rear diff fluid
- check oil level - done
- check Alt upper bracket bolt torque
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I got it all ready to drive, but it was too late to test it out, so I'll be testing it out on Monday, then adding the seats, then adding the bed. Today was a brutal day. I got a lot done, but there were a lot of little things that took way longer than they should have.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'm working on installing my seats today. It looks like these seats won't be too hard to mock up. They sit a bit higher than the stock seats (which I prefer), but my tall friends aren't going to like them.

I'll be bolting the seats straight to the floor (front one goes on that crossmember thing where the stock one was, rear mounts will go through the floor.

Here's my first question of the day.

1) I assume the sheet metal is enough to hold the seat in, but what should I do for my 5-point? Can i just bolt my lap belts through the floor with some really big washers? is the floor sheet metal going to be strong enough for the belts in a roll-over? I like the idea of running a horizontal bar across both B pillars behind the seats for the shoulder straps
 

ricsrx

Well-Known Member
yes if you have big washers on both sides, and using larger bolts, dont be using 1/4'' bolts.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Paging Nick Panos...

Nick, do you have a link to that thread on pirate where they routed the e-brake cable to pull on the pedal?


EDIT: Nevermind, I found it here.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=857179&highlight=ebrake&page=2

FREE line lock mod.

1.Take the first section of parking brake cable( the one that goes to the relay lever on the frame) unclip it and pull it back to the engine bay.

2. loop it over the brake booster

3. drill a hole in the firewall behind brake pedal, install cable with factory retainer clip

4. loop/tie/secure the cable to the brake pedal. (I usually tie it up and secure it with a ziptie or a small cable saddle)

Now ya got 4 wheel parking brake! Great for stopping on the trail in bad spots, or winching from outside the vehicle.

Easy FREE mod
 
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SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
Thanks Rick. how big is "big"?

Home Depot usually has a good selection of 2"+ fender washers but bigger is better. Now is a great time to hack up all of your steel remnants into "washers". All you want to do is spread the load and ensure your bolts will not pull through their immediate washers.

As far as bolt size, how large are the eyelets on the seat belt tabs? Fill the hole up with a bolt, the less slop the better.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Good point slc.

Well, it drives. I drove it 1/4 mile away to fill up the gas tank. This beast is LOUD without a muffler, but it does drive pretty well. I can't wait to get some shocks on it and see if it feels relatively safe on the road. I will say that the brakes feel great, and I didn't upgrade to IFS brakes.

Time to go flex it out on some dirt hills.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Looks like about 3-3.5" uptravel, and TONS of downtravel in front.

I don't think i'll ever get the rear springs flat, when it starts getting tippy I'm not even close to half flexed. I definitely plan on frenching the hangers in the rear and going with a smaller shackle, unless these things settle a good 2-3"

Sorry I don't have any pics, my camera is crapping out on me.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
got my camera working. Here are some pics:

DSC06406.JPG


clearancing the rocker panels.
DSC06407.JPG


My brother working on his runner.
DSC06408.JPG


got the back of the cab sealed and painted.
DSC06409.JPG


Had to modify the longbed to fit the gas tank and frame rails.
DSC06410.JPG


trying to get the bed to sit right.
DSC06411.JPG


The tires don't stick out as far as I thought they would. I should still be able to drive it around town without getting hassled too much by the cops.
DSC06413.JPG


Not enough gas tank clearance, I still have to lower it an inch.
DSC06414.JPG


Here the bed is just sitting on the frame, not attached, and the tank is dropped. Still have a lot of work to do before it gets attached.
DSC06416.JPG
 
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