Steve's '94 Toyota x-cab mild build

[N-Smooth]

that blows my mind that such an expensive, aftermarket housing has an issue like that. i'd say cut it off, it looks like you should have enough material below the other bolt-holes. or even weld a semi-circle of 1/4 to the bottom of the housing and then cut it off level with that to give you some more material around the bolt holes. craziness!

 

[Max Power]

I was surprised that the 3rd hung down like that too. That cavity almost looks like it should be for a dowel pin. I wonder if Landcruiser axles have a need for it. It is weird that trail-gear mentions nothing about this being an issue.

Have fun on your wheeling trip Steve. Sorry I didn't make it over today.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I spent 3 hours trying to get the shims right on the knuckles. It's either 5 lbs or 25 lbs on the pull scale. With the trunion eliminator it's supposed to be between 10-15, and I'm having a tough time matching that. I may end up taking a belt sander to some of the shims. I've heard that works.

I plan on trimming the third below the housing eventually.

 

[Max Power]

The instructions on their website say between 15 and 25 pounds. If you can get 25 lbs I would leave it. With the metal on metal connection that it has it will eventually loosen up a bit. I don't understand why preload is so important if you don't have bearings to get destroyed.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Davez offeroad has done a lot of testing with it. If you go over 15 lbs the steering won't return to center on its own. 10-15 is the sweet spot.

 

[Max Power]

Good to know. Have fun camping.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I got the front axle put together tonight, that was a relief. I've got the trunion bearing eliminators installed. Preload is around 15-17 lbs. A little high, but I couldn't get lower without it going to 2 lbs. Maybe it'll break in a little.

I'm also running the new TG wiper seals. They replace the felts. I'm REALLY impressed, they're very well designed. They keep the knuckle ball clean, and keep the grease in the knuckle. But they do add a lot of drag to the steering. A lot more drag than typical felts and rubber seals.


Tomorrow night I need to install my caster shims and new center pins, then bolt it all up and take it out for a spin to see if I've cured my death wobble or not.

 

[864runner]

Are you sure its the wiper seals causing your steering drag, and not the trunion bearing eliminators causing it? it seems like they would be more likely a culprit than the wiper seals

 

[sixstringsteve]

Yeah. I measured the drag without the seals installed and got 17 lbs. Now that the wipers are on, its a lot more. I'm sure it'll loosen up a little over time.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I ran into a new problem tonight.

now that I've added my 6 degree shims, my steering knuckles point down more, and my leaf springs are thicker, resulting in my tie rod rubbing the springs, and it's not even installed all the way yet. Does anyone have any suggestions? Do they make offset tie rods to give me an extra half inch of clearance?

 

[sixstringsteve]

the only thing I can think to do is un-french my front hanger and lower it about 3" to fix the caster. But then that will raise my truck up higher and I'll have to re-do the rear suspension. I'm about ready to soak it in gasoline and light it on fire. Or part it out...

I'm not sure which is worse.

 

[Marsh99]

New hanger or cut and turn...

 

[airmanwilliams]

I'm about ready to soak it in gasoline and light it on fire. Or part it out...I'm not sure which is worse.

dont do that steve, ill trade you rigs

im sure you will figure it out very quickly and will have it up and running in no time. sorry I cant provide more constructive input.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Thanks for the words of encouragement airman.

to the best of my knowledge, you can't cut and turn a rock assault.

A new hanger will raise my front end another inch or two. Which means I"ll have to raise my rear end another inch or two. I don't have the patience for that.

 

[TJDukit]

Something like this might work.

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=IR-WTRFK

 

[sixstringsteve]

yeah, that would be a solution. i wish someone made an fj80 tie rod that had a bend in it so I could keep my current steering bar.

I may just go to a 3* shim and run shackles that are an inch shorter.

 

[Max Power]

I hope you get it figured out quickly. I would think a custom tierod would be the easiest solution. Maybe Teraflex could slap something together for you.

Have you ordered your TG rear disconnect yet?

 

[I Lean]

How about running the tie rod under the hi-steer arms rather than over? Would that put it low enough to fit just under the springs?

You'd probably need to go to a tie rod end with a larger stud, like the typical "1 ton" GM-style ends since you'll be reaming an existing (but wrong-direction) tapered hole.

Let me know if you need me to tap you some tubing for such a project...

 

[sixstringsteve]

How about running the tie rod under the hi-steer arms rather than over? Would that put it low enough to fit just under the springs?

I had thought of that, but the spring pack is too small. I may remove a leaf or two (I have tiny 4" long and 6" long stubby leafs on the bottom of the pack) or I may run a 3* shim and see if I can squeak by. I'm out of money for this project.

 

[Raleigh]

Looks to me that if you got rid of the 2 bottom leaves you would be ok...