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The “200 sq ft” max “shed” build

The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Finally got the shed disassembled and moved into my backyard. I measured, and squared a string line “10x20” 😉 to see where it’ll sit. Followed all zoning and utility setbacks for this “200 sq foot” garage. Going to pour a small footing to assemble this unit, and pour the inside pad later.

And also this building seems to love to cut people, my buddy got snagged by one of the nails helping move walls off the trailer.


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Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
The_Lobbster said:
Finally got the shed disassembled and moved into my backyard. I measured, and squared a string line “10x20” 😉 to see where it’ll sit. Followed all zoning and utility setbacks for this “200 sq foot” garage. Going to pour a small footing to assemble this unit, and pour the inside pad later.

And also his building seems to love to cut people, my buddy got snagged by one of the nails helping move walls off the trailer.


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Wow! That’s a nasty one
 
The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Preparing to pour my footings! I’ve calculated I need about a yard and a half or less to pour a 12” tall by 4” wide footing. Only going about 6” below grade. Once I get the whole thing assembled, I will pour the interior slab later when my dad comes to visit, as he did concrete for years and can do better than I to make it flat.
Also scored a free garage door! Was told it was 8’x8’, but realized later it’s actually 7’x7’. Still enough for my Suzuki, but anything full-size will be tight. I’ll just frame some extra studs to make provision for upgrading later.


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The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
This may have gotten more expensive and time consuming quick. But after seeing the neighbor around the block have to rip out their front porch addition to rebuild it with a permit and by code, I feel like I can’t afford to take a risk. Had a good 30 minute convo with the guy in charge and he explained a lot. Sounds like it’ll actually be fairly doable while staying legal lol


As long as I can still bust it out before snow flies that is.
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The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
About 60% finished up drawing my own prints. I have a few hours into these already, pouring over the IRC. Just waiting to hear back from Springville because I’ll need to upgrade my service on the house to pull off for this, unless I run a whole new service, which is even more $$$$

Starting to look like I’ll just throw the 20x10 shed together as is to have something for winter, while I save money to build this all at once. At least lumber prices have come down a bit lately it seems?


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N-Smooth

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Way cool to draw it up yourself! Only a 7' wide overhead door? FWIW West Jordan City required 4' on the side of the man door and overhead door for wall shear strength but YMMV.

Why so far from the rear fence?
 
The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
N-Smooth said:
Way cool to draw it up yourself! Only a 7' wide overhead door? FWIW West Jordan City required 4' on the side of the man door and overhead door for wall shear strength but YMMV.

Why so far from the rear fence?
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Because I got the door for free haha. However, if I end up just curbing this until next year, I’ll probably spring for something bigger, provided I can get a deal on one.

Rear fence distance because overhead electrical is directly over head, and I figured I may as well give them plenty of clearance in case they ever have to get back there.

I will look into the minimum distance on that door, I may have simply over looked it. A lot easier to fix now than before it’s poured!
 
N-Smooth

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
The_Lobbster said:
Because I got the door for free haha. However, if I end up just curbing this until next year, I’ll probably spring for something bigger, provided I can get a deal on one.

Rear fence distance because overhead electrical is directly over head, and I figured I may as well give them plenty of clearance in case they ever have to get back there.

I will look into the minimum distance on that door, I may have simply over looked it. A lot easier to fix now than before it’s poured!
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A wise man once told me "often times free shit is the most expensive" and I think that applies to the overhead door. You may regret not doing a wider door and it's not really something you can change. Just my opinion.

Makes sense on the overhead lines. They should have an easement on your plat map to show what they really require, again FWIW.
 
The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
N-Smooth said:
A wise man once told me "often times free shit is the most expensive" and I think that applies to the overhead door. You may regret not doing a wider door and it's not really something you can change. Just my opinion.

Makes sense on the overhead lines. They should have an easement on your plat map to show what they really require, again FWIW.
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I did some research, from my understanding, they require a 15’ path. So, 7.5’ish on each side, but I’d rather them not have to tear anything down if possible. Good thing is, the pole in my yard is at the opposite corner of the building, and my neighbors is also at the other corner. So theoretically, they should never have to put a truck there anyways, but never know I guess 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
This project got put on hold, realized the wood shed I got for free is more junk than good. I can salvage about 75% of the OSB siding panels though at least.
I was planning on just waiting til early spring to submit planning paperwork, and this happened a couple months ago. Now I’m desperately trying to throw something together that’s sturdy enough, before big snow, so that the wife can park in the garage and not have to scrape ice and snow off her van.

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The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Which leads me to what will essentially be a carport. 4” channel for the roof, with 4 trusses over the length of building, so 5’ O.C. I plan to use drill pipe for the side columns, and main beam. I drew up a simple bracket that will slide onto the main pipe beam. This whole thing will need to be bolt together in case the city comes knocking, because my decided size, is 14.75’x20’ (Steel channel length is my limiting factor, but got it dirt cheap) For some reason steel buildings and carports seem to be governed different here.


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The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
I suck at math in my head, the rafters would be 7' 4" on center roughly, not 5'. I would have some sort of purlins, or something, with OSB on top. I think it would be strong enough. I drew it up on sketchup today at work to get an idea in my head. Overall inside width of the walls is 14'9", peak to base is a little over 9', but can be changed depending how long I make the columns, and what type of foundation I pour for them.

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I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
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