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The Big Rig Crawler Hauler

Chevycrew

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Ok, so I went and did it...

I bought a diesel tow rig, or crawler hauler. The needs were pretty simple, my current tow rig is a 99 chevy with a 454 and a 4l80e, and my TrailBlazer on the trailer is about 10,000lbs. While this is no big deal for a newer diesel pickup, adding a camper/travel trailer into the mix makes things difficult.

There are tons of ideas out there for what works the best. When its all said and done, there is no replacement for displacement.

I was concerned with overloading tires with a slide in camper, having to tow doubles, being over GVWR, total cost, and some other things. I have a almost 2yo daughter, and while my wife will do it, she isnt exactly a fan of tents when its cold.

I needed a rig that could haul a 7500lb crawler, and be able to tow a camp trailer.

So enter into the picture a 1974 International Transtar II Cabover.

Here is what I know about it so far:

NTC-290 cummins, with Jake brake.
RT-9513 13 speed transmission, no overdrive.
Newer batteries
Needs a couple tires
Originally a tractor, but was stretched somewhere along the way.
24' Flatbed.

cabover.jpg
 
Chevycrew

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
I really don't have much plans for it.

Replace a couple tires, or remove the inner duals? (Input?)
Make a secure place for the car seat with seat belts on the center hump.
Clean the cab and sleeper, replace mattress
Make sure all lights work
Install trailer hitch, wiring, and electric trailer brakes

Then what I'm really torn on, do I shorten the bed to fit in my shop with the TB on the deck (about 4 feet) or, do I lengthen the bed about 4' to haul 2 crawlers?
 
ChestonScout

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
My plans for it would have been to remove a rear axle. shorten the bed to barely fit the scout on. make a beefy receiver. so you can haul a camper or a buddies rig to the trail.

That makes the truck more usable and easier to manuver, less tires to buy, etc.

But i cant wait to see what you do!
 
Chevycrew

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
The problem with dropping a rear axle is the walking beam rear supension. I would need to round up the suspension from a single rear axle truck.

While it wouldn't be that hard, it is an expense. I may have to look into what the cost would be.

Also, to shorten the bed more than 4', I would have to move the rear axles forward, or go to a single axle. The nice thing is all the factory bolt holes are there to move the rears 5-6' forward to the original wheebase.
 
Unimog

Unimog

Eric
Location
Stansbury Park, UT
I dropped an axle on mine and never regretted it - I'm just a big fan of simple. I actually have most all the components from dropping my axle that I would be willing to sell. They would be a single freightliner air-ride suspension, assuming you could bolt your axle to it. I also have a spare axle with hubs, drums, etc, but no third member for it.
 
Chevycrew

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
I need to look around and figure out what I want to do. Right now it has a leaf spring rear, each end bolted to the axles with a center pivot. It has the dayton style wheels on the rear. (ie: mobile home style)

It would be nice to have standard 10 lug rear wheels when I was done. I need to check the rear end ratio and top speed when I bring it home, it may be worth a ratio swap to something a little higher.
 
UNSTUCK

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
I'd get rid of the front drive axle. You would have to if you went with a single drive axle because of the power divider on the front drive. Then I'd go for the air bag suspension. But first drive your wife around in it for a while with the current suspension. Once her stomach hurts tell her how much nicer air bags will be. There are a few places in town that cater to used parts for these trucks.
 
Chevycrew

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
It doesnt really matter at this point which rear axle to keep. The entire rear supension will need pulled out and changed to a single rear style. The axle selection can be done then. If it was as simple as dropping a rear axle, I would remove the front one and slide the rear axle into that position.

This is the type of rear suspension it has:

TM-9-2320-302-10_43_3.jpg
 
Unimog

Unimog

Eric
Location
Stansbury Park, UT
Yea. I think we get the suspension complication. I think we are both referring to the driveline part. After the suspension issue is resolved, if you drop the rear, you need to lock the inter axle diff. If you drop the middle, you need at least the driveline rebuilt.

I haven't ever heard of any plus/minus to just dropping the inside duals other than the obvious lack of redundancy if you get a flat.
 
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