The H'ell Camino

Greg

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Well, the Auto Meter gauges are all wired up, sending units installed and lighting connected to the headlight switch!

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Working on finishing the exhaust next and then.... install and connect the engine harness! :eek:
 

Greg

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Got the exhaust all welded up, built some exhaust hangers to suspend the tailpipes and the exhaust is SOLID! Some of the welds weren't great, I think it's due to the alumunized coating on the tubing?

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I started to work on the engine harness by cutting a 2" hole in the firewall with a drill and hole saw... and that's where it ended. I've been having some crazy back pain and it was getting worse, so I called it a day early. :( I'll try again tomorrow.

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Greg

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I've been laid up for over a week, my back problems got worse to the point I haven't done much at all... didn't go to work, either. Today I was finally feeling good enough to get back into the shop and work on the El Co. Since I had the hole in the firewall for the wiring harness, I started pulling it thru, then connecting everything.... TPS, MAF, O2, fuel injectors, transmission plugs, etc, etc. I have to say, the PSI Conversions wiring harness is high quality, the wire lengths, connectors, etc are damn near perfect. I need to tuck and secure the harness in places, but it all went together very quickly.

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The checklist is getting thinned out too!

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And then, this happened!



The engine isn't ready to run, but I wanted to check for oil pressure. After cranking it over for 10 seconds, a few different times, I never saw it build pressure. I'm going to pull one of the oil plugs, hoping it's an issue with the gauge sending unit. I'm a bit nervous, hoping I didn't miss something in engine assembly. I'd hate to tear it all out, pull the pan, front & read covers to verify plugs are in fact installed! I used a book for the rebuild and was very cautious to do everything, step by step and as good as possible.

At this point, I still need to finish plumbing the cooling system, have the ECU tuned and VATS removed, install the throttle pedal & cable, wire up the cooling fans.... and that's really it. :oops:
 

Greg

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The engine isn't ready to run, but I wanted to check for oil pressure. After cranking it over for 10 seconds, a few different times, I never saw it build pressure. I'm going to pull one of the oil plugs, hoping it's an issue with the gauge sending unit. I'm a bit nervous, hoping I didn't miss something in engine assembly. I'd hate to tear it all out, pull the pan, front & read covers to verify plugs are in fact installed! I used a book for the rebuild and was very cautious to do everything, step by step and as good as possible.

Doing some reading, a few guys have said that even with a mechanical gauge a rebuilt LS won't build enough oil pressure when cranking only. One guy said he was in a similar situation, but when it finally fired up, he had 60 PSI. I'm going to keep moving forward and when the time comes to fire it up, be cautious when it fires and be sure it's building pressure.
 

Greg

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Back on the El Camino after a 3 day thrashfest on the CJ3B. I'm now to the point where its all the little things that need to get buttoned up. I worked on the car all day, but feel like I didn't make much progress. And when I needed to make a parts run to NAPA at 4 PM, I learned that they're closing their doors early on the weekends, at 3 PM! So I didn't get half the parts I needed, after a trip to O'Rileys.

I did buy my fancy new Lokar throttle pedal and cable. They're really nice, solid pieces... I think they fit the rest of the 'go fast' parts inside the El Camino.

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Installing it wasn't hard, but tedious. It mounts in the factory location against the firewall, you have to drill a hole for the cable and put it all together. I have spent a little time tucking and zip-tying the engine harness in place, it's getting better, slowly.

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Routing the cable is kinda funky, because it has to cross over to the linkage on the pass side and I didn't want to make any sharp bends, binding up the cable. I think I can get the throttle cable to lay lower against the manifold, so it's more subtle.

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I have my power steering hoses 3/4 of the way hooked up, need to make a custom hose to connect the late model PS pump to the old style Saginaw steering box.

I spent quite a bit of time with the wiring harness directions, trying to wrap my head around connecting my fuel pump to the engine harnesses relay. Same with the fans and the beefy, aftermarket fan harness that came with the engine harness. I'm essentially connecting 2 smaller harnesses to the engine harness and making them all work together. Again, not a big deal just tedious. I realized there was a switch I was missing that's critical to get the 4L60E to operate in OD. It's the TCC/Brake Switch, costs $22 but I don't have it... so ordered that.

I spent some time trying to fit the ECU where the glovebox sits now. It's tight, but there's room. But the glovebox will be useless now. No room for the ECU anywhere else. I found a couple possible local shops that can delete the VATS off my ECU and write a tune for the aluminum 5.3 L33 with a cam and LS6 intake. Just need a base tune, then once it's driving and broken in, we'll connect the laptop and get a better driving tune.

Speaking of the tune, one parameter you need to know is the gear ratio to get the transmission to shift right. I figured that with a TH350 it had somekind of highway gear, also by the way it drove when I bought it.... it had long legs. I found the build code stamped on the axle housing, looked up the numbers and...... 3.08's! That's a good highway gear, puts my cruising RPM at 75 MPH around 2,200 RPM. Just loping along. I'll drive it how it is and see how I like the 3.08's, but at some point down the road I want to drop in a tight limited slip. Might as well regear at that point! 3.73's would add some performance and not bump up the freeway RPM's too much, 2,600 RPM @ 75. All good info to know!

I removed the cheap, rusted hood pins that came on this car and worked on installing the fancy Daystar hood pins that I bought some time ago. They look 10x better. I don't really care for the hood pins, but they were already installed. I might as well make them look good.

I've got to work the next 9 days, so I'll have to get back to it on my next 'weekend'. I'm really hoping I can fire it up and start driving it then!

Oh, it's now been 2 years since I bought this car.... :grimacing:
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Doing some reading, a few guys have said that even with a mechanical gauge a rebuilt LS won't build enough oil pressure when cranking only. One guy said he was in a similar situation, but when it finally fired up, he had 60 PSI. I'm going to keep moving forward and when the time comes to fire it up, be cautious when it fires and be sure it's building pressure.
I’m planning on building an oil primer for my engine before the first startup out of a weed sprayer. I have a port drilled in the oil filter block off for my Jeep oil pressure sending unit that I’ll hook it up to. Hit that weed sprayer with 40 psi and have it force oil through the engine. Then it will never spin “dry” I hope.
 

Greg

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I’m planning on building an oil primer for my engine before the first startup out of a weed sprayer. I have a port drilled in the oil filter block off for my Jeep oil pressure sending unit that I’ll hook it up to. Hit that weed sprayer with 40 psi and have it force oil through the engine. Then it will never spin “dry” I hope.

I read up on how to do something similar, I used plenty of assembly lube so I'm not super worried, but it would be nice to pressurize everything beforehand.

***edit*** Hurry up and build it, send it my way and I'll test it out for you! ;)
 

Jesser04

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville Utah
Could your neighbor hydrodip the throttle cable or can you sleeve it with black rubber hose? I don’t think it’s the placement of the cable as much as the color of it.
 

Greg

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Good progress! Would your throttle cable fit underneath the intake tunnel?

Thanks! Little by little, its getting there!

There's no space under the manifold, best I can do is try lower it a bit.


Could your neighbor hydrodip the throttle cable or can you sleeve it with black rubber hose? I don’t think it’s the placement of the cable as much as the color of it.

I could sleeve it, but since it's braided steel I don't think hydrodipping would work.


Might even look better with split wire loom over it

Yeah, I have some spiral loom I could cover it with. We'll see, I'm not too worried about it.
 

Greg

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I’m planning on building an oil primer for my engine before the first startup out of a weed sprayer. I have a port drilled in the oil filter block off for my Jeep oil pressure sending unit that I’ll hook it up to. Hit that weed sprayer with 40 psi and have it force oil through the engine. Then it will never spin “dry” I hope.

You've got me thinking about a electric pump I have just sitting around. Its a water pump from Seaflow rated at 35 psi. I don't know how well it will flow oil and really don't care if it destroys the pump, long as it works to build oil pressure.

I have a plugged oil port next to the oil filter as well, could tap into that run a supply line from a fresh quart of oil. It would be awesome to tap into the oil drain plug and just run the oil in the pan as the supply oil!

I think I'll work on this and see how it goes.

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Greg

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I'm looking at a new steering wheel for the El Camino, since the current one bugs the hell out of me.... and I plan to spend some time driving it soon!

Any thoughts on this one? Its a Grant with a 13 1/2" diameter and has a carbon fiber pattern, which will tie in to the engine parts. ;)

My wife wanted a huge, factory one but they're hard to find and a decent one costs way more than I want to spend. I think this Grant looks good and is sporty.

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Greg

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