The Rubi Q Build

[Pile of parts]

One other question while I’m at it, I want to keep A/C in the jeep. The low, passenger side mounting of the compressors on the LS engines might be tough. I assume it will hit the pass side upper control arm. Can I remove that arm and axle bracket and run it as a three link? Is the cast driver side upper bracket strong enough? Should I cut it off and add a bridge over the diff? I’m running a Tera long arm lift.

Will accessory relocation for ls engines work in the tj/lj?

Dirty Dingo LS Billet Truck Low Power Steering R4 AC Accessory Brackets

Dirty Dingo LS Billet Truck Low Power Steering R4 AC Accessory Brackets include our Dirty Dingo Billet Alternator/Power Steering Bracket for truck accessories and your choice of Sanden or R4 A/C compressor bracket.

www.texas-speed.com

 

[UNSTUCK]

That could work in a tj/lj, but I probably have even less room up high with my air compressor on the passenger side and then trying to fit an air filter in there somewhere.

I thought it is/was pretty common to remove the pass side upper arm on RE lift kits and similar, to make it a 3 link and make more flex.

 

[N-Smooth]

That could work in a tj/lj, but I probably have even less room up high with my air compressor on the passenger side and then trying to fit an air filter in there somewhere.

I thought it is/was pretty common to remove the pass side upper arm on RE lift kits and similar, to make it a 3 link and make more flex.

I mean I did the opposite on my XJ with a mid-arm 3 link so I don’t see why not. I think a truss over the top of the diff would be ideal over the factory cast mount

 

[UNSTUCK]

Doing a bit of searching I see that Savvy does this with their 3 link mid arm system. They have a decent looking truss for a good price. That would allow building a larger upper link with big joints to handle the extra load.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Winner winner chicken dinner!!!!!

https://online.localauctions.com/auction/1016/item/2007-gmc-yukon-denali-4-door-suv-vin1gkfk63827j350523-with-reserve-5520033/

 

[UNSTUCK]

Got it home this evening. It is flat out a piece of junk. I need a car whisperer. I want it to tell me all the stories!













If you can get past the ground cables and insulation foam on the air filter, you get to the good stuff. The L92 engine. This is the precursor to the LS3, and the first 6.2 in the LS family. At one time it made just over 400hp and around 460 torque. This being a “truck” engine it already has a great torque curve. It does have variable valve timing, but it does not have active fuel management. Behind it is a 6L80E. At least it assume it is not a 90. And then whatever the AWD t-case is. The odometer shows 173000 miles. It runs rough, and is definitely burning oil. It looks to have a junk yard pulled PCM. I confirmed its VIN does not match the cars VIN.
So it’s got some unknown history. The plan is a full rebuild. Just wondering how I should go about it. VVT seems to be 50/50 in likes. I think I like the idea of it. If the stock cam is reusable that will likely make up my mind there. If it’s junk I’ll go for a non VVT cam and then turn off that system.
That’s all I can think of tonight.

 

[1969honda]

Once you get in the engine make sure to install an oil pan relief valve deflector. It was an after thought TSB install on those early L92s, without it the back two cylinders get sprayed constantly with oil, plugging the ring pack up and causing excessive oil consumption and premature cylinder wear.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Once you get in the engine make sure to install an oil pan relief valve deflector. It was an after thought TSB install on those early L92s, without it the back two cylinders get sprayed constantly with oil, plugging the ring pack up and causing excessive oil consumption and premature cylinder wear.

Excellent information. I had no idea. I’ll look that up so I know what it is, to see if it has it already. Thanks.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Got a lot done today. First and foremost, got Dave’s radiator installed and also replaced one of the hvac door actuators.

Out with the old and in with the less old.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Then I parked the jeep and started in on the Yukon. I wanted to try to figure out why it was running so poorly. To know if it was internal issues or external issues. I pulled out my fuel pressure tester and then found out the fitting that attaches to the fuel rail was bad and wouldn’t open the Schrader valve. Well it was running so I figured the pressure must at least be close.
I moved on to checking compression. I pulled all the plugs and disconnected the coils. Plugs were a bit telling. #8 had quite a bit of oil on it. It smokes pretty bad of burning oil while running. I assume most of it is coming from cylinder 8.





I then hooked up the compression tester to #1 and was very surprised as the gauge kept climbing.


The battery was dying as I moved down the left bank. Once I got to 7 and got a lower number I decided to put cables on it and try again. The difference was significant. I left the cables on while doing the right bank.


When I was pulling the plugs I found that #5 did not have the wire fully seated on the plug. That would explain the misfire code I had on that cylinder.
So I put it all back together and took it for a drive. I love on a street where I can safely get up to a good speed, but it’s not a main road at all. Usually no traffic. It’s a dead end street about a half mile long. So it’s nice. I drove to the end and turned around. I have it about 3/4 throttle and it took off. A very solid acceleration to about 40mph. I was happy. Then I noticed the entire street covered in smoke. Just taking care of the mosquitoes. 😂

So I’m not sure where to go from here? Tear it all down anyways? Mic it out and see where everything is at? Drop it at a machine shop and have them do it all? I did bore scope the cylinders. Couldnt focus well but I didn’t see any cross hatching.

 

[1969honda]

Drop the front crossmember and differential, pull the pan and inspect the cylinders from the bottom end. My 2008 L92 was burning a lot of oil but seemed to run just fine with no other abnormal issues. I inspected the bottom end and found no pressure relief valve deflector installed that I mentioned earlier, and almost no visible cross hatch remaining on the rear two cylinders with the oil pan off.

The rear two cylinders had to be taken to 4.083" to get rid of the hour glassing from the piston rings being completely plugged with oil sludge/residue. Machine shop said the other cylinders could have just been ball honed and stock bore pistons installed. Those two however were the largestest they have ever had to bore a non- performance engine build on an LS to date. If it would have needed anymore cut out, it would have required sleeves or a new block. Engine was just over 118,000 miles.


GM considered the early Gen IV engines to have an acceptable oil consumption of 1 quart in 2000 miles but an oil change interval of 3-5000 miles. I actually read that recently a class action lawsuit found GM at fault for the oil consumption issue in 5.3L engines from 2007-2014 due to poor engineering; but the 6.2L was left out of the lawsuit. The average Joe got like $2800 compensation IIRC their problems and GM never issuing a recall.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Did a little more checking into the oil soaked 7 and 8 cylinder issue. The TSB says it’s only an issue with AFM engines. Supposedly the L92 (2007 and 2008) has at least most of the hardware for AFM, but did not use it.
I guess I’ll know for sure when I pull the pan. It may or may not have the extra AFM pressure relive valve. It if does, then it may or may not have the deflector. If it does not have the deflector I will pay close attention to those cylinders for wear. I will also install a deflector. I like that idea better than removing the valve and plugging the hole.

I have also decided to dump the VVT. I’ll purchase a new cam and timing gear, along with a new cover.

Next questions are valve train related. I think I’ll sleep better after installing new springs. Do I need new rockers, assuming the current ones are reusable? Pushrods? Lifters? I will have the heads gone through. I hear valves are also a common failure.

I have no intentions of replacing the crank or rods.

The goal here is a perfectly running and reliable stockish engine. The 400hp/torque numbers are fine.

 

[UNSTUCK]

I also forgot to mention my most favorite mod/repair so far. This one has been at the top of my list since day one of ownership: going back to the stock fender flares.


I hate these pocket style flares.

Back to the originals. Clean and smooth. Tire coverage is about perfect.

 

[N-Smooth]

Pocket flares are a sin. It looks way better!

 

[1969honda]

Springs I would definetly replace, rockers do a trunion upgrade kit. Mine I rebuilt was a non AFM engine as well, definetly needed the deflector. Don't plug the valve port, did that hooked up a mechanical gauge up and with a new melling high pressure high flow for the VVT, dash says 65lbs ish at idle, close to 80 on start up. Mechanical gauge was 85-90 at idle and 120+ on start up. Put a new relief valve in with deflector and pressure was a constant 55psi.

 

[UNSTUCK]

I’m super happy with this Yukon find so far. I think this will be a great donor vehicle. Again, it has a 6.2L L92 engine with a 6LxxE transmission. I assume it’s an 80. I have a few ideas up my sleeves I want to try. So I’ve been gathering as much info as I can. I should say this project can’t officially start until I get the bug project (yes, I’m still working on it…kind of) done. But I want everything in place so it can go FAST!

1. Tap shifting. My steering wheel has cover plates on the back side of it on the left and right sides. I learned that the grand Cherokee had those spots for audio control buttons. So what if I install those and use them for tap shift? Anyone know if my clockspring already has the extra circuits? If not will a Cherokee clockspring work with my column/steering parts? I tried looking them up on rock auto but didn’t see them listed. Maybe they call them something else. The signal/wiring of tap shift is easy. Just want to keep it looking stock so this would be a great place to put the switches. I’ll need to add some sort of gear range indicator. Not happy about that but no way around it. If I could keep track of that stuff in my head I’d go to Vegas and count cards.

2. Transmission shifter. If I can make the tap switches work on the steering wheel then I will use a stock TJ automatic transmission shifter. I may or may not have to modify the throw to match the detent spots on the transmission. I’m pretty sure I will need to add park/neutral micro switches as well. Reverse is handled in the transmission wiring/BCM. The nice thing about this transmission is it only has two forward gear selection options. Either drive or manual shift. So any shifter should work by locking out the extra shift positions and making sure the throw is right. If I can’t use the steering wheel tap shifting I will go with a Radesigns modified Winters shifter that incorporates tap shifting. I already have the Novak mounting bracket to put it in the TJ/LJ center console for a cleanish finish.

3. Cruise control. It has me stumped right now. Novak can make CC work on a third gen LS, but they have no adapters for a fourth gen listed. I don’t know if that’s because it can’t be done or if the jeep switches will talk directly to the GM ecu already. Looking at kits online it looks like the ecu just needs any switches. So that’s good. I don’t know how to makes the lights on the dash work though. Any ideas? I’m planning on incorporating the GM BCM for now. Don’t know if it’s a must have or not. I will be totally bummed if I lose CC from the steering wheel switches.

4. I need a tow/haul mode switch to put on the dash switch cluster. When activated it will switch the ecu programming to a Corvette style sport tune. Completely and utterly needless, but cool. 😎

After figuring out these items it should be a fairly straight forward LS to Jeep swap (with all of their headaches of course). I picked up a junkyard 241 while in Utah for Turkey day. It has very fresh looking RTV around all the sealing areas. Hopefully it was recently rebuilt. It needs a SYE and I’m guessing a clocking ring.

What else am I missing?

 

[RockChucker]

My buddy tried to get a radesigns winters tap shift kit a month or so ago. Apparently they don’t sell them anymore? Tap shift is awesome! I love my winters radesigns setup

 

[1969honda]

Modify your own? Here's the resistor values I have saved in my notes for a 2008 corvette 6L80e.

 

[UNSTUCK]

It’s been a long time since I’ve played with a winters. I don’t remember how they work. Radesignes does something to keep the handle in the center of the gate so that you can move it left or right for tap shift. Then it returns to center.
I 100% want a stock shifter with steering wheel tap shifting. I just need a clock spring with the extra circuits.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Small update here. Last Saturday my son and I hit a quick trail. Turned out to be even quicker than we planned. The MIL came on and I noticed that I couldn’t get it over 2500 RPMs. We made the decision to limp it back to the staging area and play with it more from there. We could get a trailer there if need be. Otherwise it was about 5 miles on the highway to get home.
Once back to the staging area I shut it off to see if it would clear. It did not clear, but I was able to drive it normally. We got home and I put my scanner on it. As I suspected it was a cam position sensor error. I called it a day and went back to playing Christmas.
Alivia ended up driving it to work twice the next week and having it cut out on her both times. The sensor I ordered finally came in and I swapped it out in a minute. The easiest repair I’ve made in a long time. That was nice. I didn’t reset the light as Livy was waiting on me so she could go to work. It ended up resetting on its own. I like it when that happens.

So Lucas and I hit another trail today and it ran perfect. We ran it hard through some sandy washes and it ran great. Then we crawled in 4 low up some hills that had Lucas pretty nervous. Then he drove for a bit (he’s 11). He’s getting better at the clutch but it’s a work in progress. We got back to the staging area and aired up. The Smittybuilt air compressor is working great and airs the tires from 15 to 32 in about a minute or so. We jumped right on a fast road and then on to the freeway. I always get a bit nervous going from the trails to the freeway, but it did great.



So a while back you may remember we blew out the bushings on the brand new Teraflex VSS shocks in the rear of the jeep. Now both front shocks have leaked probably all of their oil. They housing are covered and the shafts are very wet. I don’t think they have 1000 miles on them. Disappointing.

Speaking of miles, it just rolled over 184000 now.