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Toyota axles under a Samurai

cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Oh yeah and remember... KISS

Keep it Simple Stupid....

This really applies... sure you could upgrade to the Toy stuff, but then why stop there, t-case, tranny, big-tires... next thing you want a bigger motor and more gears... It is never ending... work with what you have until your ready to quit playin "mess aroung" and build a yota...:D

You can polish a poop (samurai) all you want...but in the end it is still just poop (samurai)....:D
 
spencurai

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
dont bother with axle gears. get t-case gears. 450$ gets you 4-1 t-case gears. petroworks sells some 4.8-1 gears for about 550. 6-1 gears are availible everywhere for about 800$ you get high range reduction with every kit also so it corrects on the highway somewhat.

the weakness of the zuk axles is their limited tire carrying ability. you start breaking regularly at about 33" tires. I have a locker in the rear and 4-1 gears in the t-case and have never broken a major drivetrain component. I broke a bunch of driveshafts due to spring wrap problems and some springs due to spring wrap problems and I wheel my stuff HARD ask anyone that has wheeled with me in my zuk!! I run 32x11.5 swamper SSRs.

run what you got till you break. lunchbox lockright lockers are less than 200$ a piece so hook up!! the beauty of t-case gears is you can keep em if you decide to ditch the axles and go stronger in the future and there is always another zuk guy that needs t-case gears. diff gears are a waste for you right now. you can get 85% reduction in low range and about 15% in high with 4:1 gears. just do it!!
 
SmokinCamel

SmokinCamel

Went from 80" to 125" :)
Location
Salt Lake City
But he liked the 5:38's :D

But if you drive alot then I wouldn't get the axle gears. I realized that it isn't wise to run the high RPMs all the time. Plus it kills gas mileage.
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Originally posted by spencurai
dont bother with axle gears.
Click to expand...

But if you do DD it like Sami does... you can't possibly tell me the stock gearing can compensate for the bigger tires... can you guys even use 5th gear? I barely could hold it in my stocker...

I think 5.38's is a little low for the DD aspect but for offorad it rules...:D
 
spencurai

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
Originally posted by cruiseroutfit


But if you do DD it like Sami does... you can't possibly tell me the stock gearing can compensate for the bigger tires... can you guys even use 5th gear? I barely could hold it in my stocker...

I think 5.38's is a little low for the DD aspect but for offorad it rules...:D
Click to expand...

DD is a really lose term.

I drive from 12th street to 24th street every day. 12 blocks is my daily drive and my car doesn't even get warmed up by the time I get there.

how far do you drive?

if you wanna get DOWN and wheel. put in 5.38s and t-case gears. you will top out at 65 mph in 5th.

another thing to consider: in 88.5 they changed the transmission 5th gear to a lower gear. 86-88.5 have a higher 5th gear and make 5.38s more viable on the highway.

I am to the point where I want all the offroad I can get so I want the 6:1 t-case gears with the reliability of stock diff gears (3.73).

here is a thread about speed and zuks on the PBB

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117472
 
Last edited:
xjc

xjc

I give up :(
Location
Ogden Utah
As I figure it, having high diff gears does add a little stress to you drive lines. If you reduce diff gearing the drive shaft moves faster and see's less stress. I don't think thats a real problem though, as long as you controll axle wrap.

Also, When spence said he wheels his stuff hard, that aint no joke. He beats his sami like a red headed step child and it has taken it year in and year out. I'm just amazed how tough the stock sami drive train is.
 
spencurai

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
when you gear you have to really take into account where your weak points are and what points in your drivetrain take the most torque. Torque is both your enemy and your friend. It is what gives you the ability to crawl over some crazy obstacles but excessive isolated torque is what breaks stuff.

If you want to transfer stress from your drivelines into your axles, you gear down the axles so your drivetrain will be able to turn them easier but this places more stress on the axle shafts. anything you do to gear down puts more stress on the axle shafts in the end so you take a pick.

since I didn't want to break any more drivelines, I got a bullet proof driveline with 1310 u-joints and AG splines. I don't have to worry about that breaking anymore.....EVER!!

axles are another thing altogether. Wheeling is not a sport for the poor as I have run into many times. I HATE wrenching on the trail. IT SUCKS. so I like my stuff to take a whipping. One reason I have not opted for the front locker yet is because of the diminutive size of the 27 spline front shafts and birfs. If I put a locker up front, I have to put birfield rings on or buy some longfields. with that comes some light grinding of the knuckles to clearence the bigger birf. with that comes the risk of snapping the stub or inner axle, with that comes trail repair. my rear locker has taken me just about everywhere I have desired so I haven't opted for the extra expense yet because I have a set of Dana 44 axles sitting out back. some day........some day........:D
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Originally posted by spencurai
..DD is a really lose term...
Click to expand...

Not for Sami, this is his only rig and he is planning on daily driving as well as driving it to all the trails and back... I think that 5.38's are a little high for this type of situation.. 4.88's with the t-case gears would be good for Sami.
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Originally posted by spencurai
...birfield rings on or buy some longfields. with that comes some light grinding of the knuckles to clearence the bigger birf. with that comes the risk of snapping the stub or inner axle,
Click to expand...

Forget the 44 unless you are interested in width.... Longfields...and Long treated inner axles are the solution...don't play mess around...:D
 
SAMI

SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
What would it cost me to do the u-joints and AG splines that you have? What do the longfields cost? this is really helpful. I just want strong and long lasting, so I don't have to deal with too many trailside repairs.
 
spencurai

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
Originally posted by SAMI
What would it cost me to do the u-joints and AG splines that you have? What do the longfields cost? this is really helpful. I just want strong and long lasting, so I don't have to deal with too many trailside repairs.
Click to expand...

my driveline is one of the sumo shafts from RRO

longfields can get pricey but I don't know how much. www.trailtough.com has some that use bigger inner shafts and a bigger birf go check em out.
 
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