Toyota axles under a Samurai
- Thread starter SAMI
- Start date
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
CV is a double U-joint at one end of the driveline, allows for less vibration and more angle in some setups... I run them front and rear in mine, love em'
yeah I have the KAD shaft. it is made by arizona drivelines and sold through several resellers.
the front axles I am talking about are the trailtough "double-tough" front axle shafts.
619$ a pair....a bit pricey but they are 4340 chrome-moly with the larger splines and larger diameter. for 600+ dollars...probably not worth it....but anyway...
extended yokes are a joke. they are no stronger than usual just longer. they do alleviate the extreme angles in the driveline created by the driveline spacers though. go for the rear shaft, don't bother with the front. and dont bother with CV shafts unless you have severe driveline vibrations. you dont need the front because it just doesn't see the same abuse as the rear usually. I have never broken a front except for that time I tried to drive over a 2.5' log and pushed out a c-clip and u-joint cap when I came down on the driveline with the entire weight of the vehicle. it wouldn't have mattered what u-joint I was running, it would have done the same thing.
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
Are you sure you have a set laying around.......
Originally posted by muleskinner
Are you sure you have a set laying around.......
yep.
don't worry about the double tough axles. just carry a set of stock shafts as spares.
dont worry about the front driveline. aftermarket fronts are more expensive than rears and not that many people break the fronts outside of competetion. just carry some extra u-joints from auto-zone.
Wanker Delux
The Other Greg
- Location
- Too Far North
IMO... what you need to do is buy the KAD rear shaft, locker, and SOA . If you do decided to go with the SOA then I would plan on getting a trac bar sooner or later, but it's not criticle. Just think twice about poping the cluch...
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Just Do it...
go for a traction bar also. when you gear down, you are gonna be making "S" shaped wrangler springs in no time!!
8" IMHO that is TOO tall for a samurai. I don't think mine is over 5 and I have only come close to rolling on a very few occasions. IF it works for you, more power to ya.
8" IMHO that is TOO tall for a samurai. I don't think mine is over 5 and I have only come close to rolling on a very few occasions. IF it works for you, more power to ya.
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
With the JP-Eater kit, your rear springs are about 6" longer than stock; your new front springs are close to 9" longer than stock. I think that is what he meant by 8".
SAMI, I dont think you need to worry to much about spring wrap with the yj springs. My bro (dan the other sami on rattlesnake last mon.) has not had any trouble with his, even with the 4.16 T-case gears. He is still stock in the r&p though.
this false dichotomy illustrates the need for a traction bar. depending on your driving style it is not a matter of "having problems", or "not having problems". ANY spring wrap is not good. it fatigues your springs at an increased rate and WILL be a majority cause of failure. Get the traction bar if you can. I am on my 3rd set of CJ7 leafs in less than a year.
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
Dont get me wrong I completly agree with running a trac bar. I'm just saying with those 2 1/2 wide wrangler spings and with the weight of the sami he has VERY MINIMAL wrap. I would avoid trac bar designs like Spidertrax Anti-Wrap Kit
they claim it doesnt hurt articulation, but I put their kit on my dad's sami and we ended up removing it because it didnt articulate as well. we went with one from www.dj40.com it's far and away the best. (its also $450) anyway my .02