Utah BroncoSpeed - FOR SALE (see adverts section in RME4x4)

[denhabr]

Cage...

Are you building the cage? If so I would check out dezertrangers. Most rock crawler guys really don't understand the term load path and that makes for a scary cage design when you go fast.

BTW Pm sent.

Chad,

Thanks for the suggestion. I went with the real deal here locally regarding go-fast desert truck fabrication. My primary fabricator is Josh Smario, former owner of Hole Shot Offroad (now Ojive Industries), Josh is a CAD/CAM designer, and has built a lot of desert racing systems for trucks/buggies. That plus he built his own '96 2WD Ranger prerunner that appeared in Off-Road Magazine in 2004 (http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/0409or_1996_ford_ranger_supercab/index.html)

Josh is teamed with business partner Dustin Francis, owner of dp custom fab (Centerville, UT) who fabricates just about everything. Dustin also crews/chases for Riot Racing (#68 BITD Trick Truck, based here in SLC.) One of his crew-chief friends at RR has expressed interest in consulting ('double-checking') on the work done on my Bronco...especially with optimizing the Autofab TTB suspension. So I am confident that my Bronco (cage, suspension, etc...) is in great hands!

Thanks for the PM. I'll drop you a line. Nice Toyota, too.

 

[gcb17]

Here they are: Goodyear Silent Armors in 35x12.50-15 sizing mounted on Ford OEM 10-hole 15x7.5 wheels...

Question: Should I mount the wheels with the center caps, or leave them off for the full "race-look?" I'll respond to everyone's comments/remarks later today. Appreciate the questions, suggestions, and feedback...

Pics:

1. 3/4 View w/o Bronco Center Cap
2. Tread
3. With Bronco Center Cap attached (like or no like?)
4. Wheel with Center Cap close-up (I sanded and painted the OEM center medallions black...)
5. Proud owner and 2 tires (one on the grass, and the other around the waist)

$103 to polish all 4 wheels? That's a hell of a deal. For factory wheels, they look great.

 

[Pauly]

Those wheels look great! I'd install with the center caps.
What a cool project, Cant wait to see it finished.

 

[denhabr]

June Update...Part IV

$103 to polish all 4 wheels? That's a hell of a deal. For factory wheels, they look great.

Yes...Travis and his staff over at Air Vision did a great job. Can't beat that price at all. And after all, it is a Bronco and not a show truck!

Those wheels look great! I'd install with the center caps.
What a cool project, Cant wait to see it finished.

Thanks for the vote...and another vote FOR keeping the center caps.

Between this forum and Broncospeed.com, that's 2 votes to KEEP them, and 1 vote to trash them. Actually, I think I will keep them, bolt them on at the end, and take some pics...both with and without. I actually like the look as it lends an "OEM look" to the truck (as if the factory offered a prerunner Bronco akin to the new Ford F-150 Raptor.)


Here are the shots of the Bronco from my visit yesterday afternoon to dp custom fab in Centerville...

1. The Obligatory Side-Mockup Shot...with the tires rolled into place in front of the hubs (or where the hubs should be...and yes, the rear suspension is still the OEM stuff...the guys will move to the rear later this week when the F shocks, axles, etc are all in place.) I suspect that the actual final body height isn't quite right, however, this still gave me a good idea of what it will look like when complete. Good looking profile, IMHO...
2. Rear Wheel/Wheel Well Close-Up: Still not sure about fiberglass...yet. I've asked my fabricators to put 'er all together, bolt on the wheels, and set it down on the suspension to see where it looks like the tires will hit. Frankly, I like the look of the OEM steel...just wish I could radius the F&R wheel wells ever so slightly to provide the clearance I need. My fabricators say I may be OK with the rear, but the front wheel wells are going to be another story.
3. Drooped Driver's Side Beam and Radius Arm
   
4. Drooped Driver's Side TTB
   
5. TTB/Radius Arm attachment Close-Up
   
6. Driver's Wheel Well
   
7. Upper Shock Hoop and Spring Bucket: There is A LOT of stuff I'll need to get the guys to relocate in the engine bay. The entire air filter box is toast, so is the battery; both need to be relocated... somewhere. It's amazing how all the room disappears when the shock hoops are in place, and the crossbar is positioned. Ugh.
   

 

[crazyyo]

looking great

 

[jgb]

denhabr,

Did you get the beams extended? Or stay stock length?

Here are pics of my truck:

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=58859

I am getting about 15" front travel with stock length beams and 17" with the custom Deaver leafs.

It looks like the Autofab radius arms stay with the rubber bushings?

Camburg cut and turned my beams and I went with their heimed extended radius arms.

Are you going with a spring over or under in the rear?

Mount Logan built mine. I did not want to go with a full cab cage at this time so we went with a behind the cab roll bar tied into the bed cage.

Nice to see another long travel desert Ford.

 

[Green Leader]

This is a great build, Nice job it looks awesome so far. Thanks for updating with great detail. I have really enjoyed this.

 

[denhabr]

Color Commentary...

looking great

Thanks!

denhabr,

Did you get the beams extended? Or stay stock length? Here are pics of my truck: http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=58859 I am getting about 15" front travel with stock length beams and 17" with the custom Deaver leafs. It looks like the Autofab radius arms stay with the rubber bushings? Camburg cut and turned my beams and I went with their heimed extended radius arms. Are you going with a spring over or under in the rear? Mount Logan built mine. I did not want to go with a full cab cage at this time so we went with a behind the cab roll bar tied into the bed cage. Nice to see another long travel desert Ford.

Thanks, JGB. I went with the Autofab stock length beams. Nice F-150, too. Are those Big O XT's, 33"? I looked at those too. Good looking tread design.

Autofab advertises 16" TTB travel with their dual 2.5" Sway-a-Way shock front kit. Their leaf spring rear kit (with the single 2.5" SAW shock option) nets 18" of travel with spring over axle configuration.

Autofab offers radius arm pivots in virtually any configuration. I chose rubber due to the local weather challenges (snow, salt, sand...) vice a heim jointed rear mount. I may switch to a heim mount, but for now, will stay with good old-fashioned rubber.

I too looked at Camburg closely before making the decision...to ultimately go full Autofab. I visited the ORE in 2004 and again last year, and talked to Camburg folks there. I finally made the decision to go Autofab based upon their end-to-end approach (and focus) on F-150s/Broncos, a series of design 'white papers' that John Ehmke sent to me in December, a series of lengthy phone calls with John where he answered ALL of my questions, and solid recommendations from a number of Autofab real-world users on www.broncospeed.com.

When I started this 'project' in '95 (at least on paper...beginning with various reconnaissance to SoCal and Az fab shops...), one recurring theme was to get a safety cage built first...and then build upon that. So, I took that advice and insisted on a cage. I've heard from my fabricator that 'cages' are illegal in Utah...so I may have to tread lightly (even though virtually every Jeep has one )

Hey, thanks for the comments and good luck with the F-150! When I get 'er done, we'll have to meet up at a BORRA race somewhere...

This is a great build, Nice job it looks awesome so far. Thanks for updating with great detail. I have really enjoyed this.

Thanks for the nice comments!

 

[jgb]

Thanks, JGB. I went with the Autofab stock length beams. Nice F-150, too. Are those Big O XT's, 33"? I looked at those too. Good looking tread design.

I too looked at Camburg closely before making the decision...to ultimately go full Autofab. I visited the ORE in 2004 and again last year, and talked to Camburg folks there. I finally made the decision to go Autofab based upon their end-to-end approach (and focus) on F-150s/Broncos, a series of design 'white papers' that John Ehmke sent to me in December, a series of lengthy phone calls with John where he answered ALL of my questions, and solid recommendations from a number of Autofab real-world users on www.broncospeed.com.

When I started this 'project' in '95 (at least on paper...beginning with various reconnaissance to SoCal and Az fab shops...), one recurring theme was to get a safety cage built first...and then build upon that. So, I took that advice and insisted on a cage. I've heard from my fabricator that 'cages' are illegal in Utah...so I may have to tread lightly (even though virtually every Jeep has one )

Hey, thanks for the comments and good luck with the F-150! When I get 'er done, we'll have to meet up at a BORRA race somewhere...

Thanks.

Yes, Big O XT's 33's, I felt that going to 35's and having to change gear ratios again was not worth it. I am now running 4.10's.

I have read a lot of people, especially the Bronco crowd, run AutoFab and like his stuff.

As far as a cab cage versus not a cab cage, for me, I felt for what I do my set-up would be fine, it still is better than nothing. And I think the design is sound. If I ever decide to race my truck, I then can get a cab cage and tie it into the existing rear structure. I read you CAN have an exterior B pillar. Or just add an interior B pillar and tie that into the existing rear structure.

Definitely looking forward to seeing your finished pictures.

 

[denhabr]

June Update...and Lug Nut Questions!

H/D Lug Nut Aficionados...

So if I were to convert to 5/8ths lugs, do I have to convert to non-cone style lugs nuts? Actually I like the flat-faced lug nuts I often see on race trucks...often gold anodized. If I went that way, would I have to spot face around the lug holes to flatten the surface?

I took the pic of the AR-23 wheel on the FabTech Ranger back in the mid-90's...it has the racing style lug nuts with the wide mating surface (and yes, two nuts are missing.) The other AR-23 close up is from a Bronco Prerunner I shot at a VORRA Race in Fallon NV in 2001. He too uses the larger flat faced nut. This is the style of lug and nut I want eventually for my Bronco...gold anodized nuts of course!

Pictures from last Friday's visit to the shop:

1. Fabtech Ranger BFG Baja T/A on an AR-23 with extended racing lugs and nuts.
2. Bronco Prerunner with yellow-label Goodyear racing tires on AR-23, also with extended racing lugs and nuts
3. The Mastercrafts "Originals" arrive!
   
4. Blue on grey seat, 1" wider (one of two for the rear)
5. Side view
6. Prep for driver's side TTB pivot point gusseting (now...what to do with the P/S cooling tube?)
7. Front Dana 44 pumpkin with 4.56 R&P after shimming

 

[neagtea]

I have a stack of wheels already machined for 11/16" studs.
Ultra 15x7 sawblades and the ones that look like your stockers ( I can't remember the model name)
20.00 each

 

[denhabr]

July Update 1...not much to report (followed by August...)

Not much to report for now. I've been busy with a lot of business and personal travel since late June, and the fabricators are up to their necks with other projects...and their regular careers.

My primary fabricator is a designer for large trade show displays/booths...like the size you would see at the national Outdoor Retailers Convention (e.g., Camelback, etc.) held locally here in SLC at the Salt Palace. So he has been occupied with his 'normal' job.

That's fine with me for now. I've told both fabricators that, "I am not in a rush, and that I want it done right...the first time." So...they've taken that to heart and are working steadily and surely.

Besides, all the parts are in except for the Hellas, and rear 8.8 diff cover. Still undecided about a rear disk brake conversion though. Not sure of where to source a complete bolt-on/weld-on kit for the 8.8 rear...

The convention/show is actually today through Friday, so I expect things to progress on the Bronco build here again shortly. As for me, I'm back on the road to NJ weekly, and then off to Europe in August...so this is a great time to have the truck in the shop...with me away and not worrying about things...

Thanks.

 

[denhabr]

August Update 1 (finally...!)

Things are finally picking up again. The primary fabricator is back at work on the Bronco, now wrapping up the front suspension this week with TTB beam gusseting and boxing...focusing a lot of work on the driver's beam.

Attached are 4 shots of their latest work of the driver's beam...

? ? ? Question: So, with a 4" Autofab 'lift', and with new-found travel front and back (16" and 18"), what length of new brake lines lines should I purchase?

I checked in with Crown Performance, and the stock OEM lines are 22" in the front, and 18" in the rear. Do I just go with a 4" extended line...or do I have to compensate for the travel as well? Is there some sort of algorithm I could use? The contact person at Crown just left it up to me.

Anyone other brake line manufacturer you folks recommend?

My fabricators move on to the rear 8.8" and suspension later this week. Maybe I'll have some shots of the 8.8 out, 4.56 r&p with the TruTrac install, truss work, aluminum FMS diff cover, and the Autofab leafs/upper shock mounts in soon!

 

[denhabr]

TTB Truss...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philofab
X2
That truss looks to stick out quite a ways.
​

Yup, it does. And yes, I spoke to my primary welder and both he and main fabricator did indeed measure twice and cut once.

However, the proof is in the pudding...and when it's all bolted together and rests on it's own weight, we'll know for sure. Then we'll see just how much real-world clearance there is. As you can tell, there is room to radius the nose of the truss at it's highest point.

News at 11:00!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liftedbroncboy
badass bronco man! so what shop exactly are you having this done at?
​

Thanks. The work is being performed near my home in Salt Lake City, Utah. The primary fabricator is a CAD designer and fabricator who owns Ojive Industries (formerly HoleShotOffroad), based out of Sandy, UT. The actual shop and secondary fabricator/primary welder is located at dp custom fab, in Centerville, UT (about 15 miles north of SLC.)

The pics below of the '96 Ranger prerunner is an example of some of the previous work they've done: http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/...cab/index.html

and: http://www.dpcustomfab.com/

Thanks for asking...I'm sure these guys appreciate it!

 

[denhabr]

August Update 2...

August Update 2
The TTB is in, bolted up, shocks positioned and springs in place...and getting checked for final clearances. Numerous calls back to John to find out the optimal location to mount the limit straps.

Note to potential Autofab dual 2.5" shock TTB system buyers here in Utah: When you purchase the 10" travel TTB S-A-W shocks (the ones that go behind the spring; see previous posts for part numbers,) order them with a 90-degree remote reservoir adapters. The proximity of the engine compartment wiring (and releated crap) on driver's side necessitates a 90-degree fitting coming off the top cap of the shock. And worse, the lower portion of the A/C box (see photo 3) on the passenger side REALLY requires a 90-degree fitting...Big Time!

I wish I would have known about that 90-degree fitting when I ordered the shocks.

Also, my fab guys clearanced the front truss slightly where the box-section made about an 1/8" contact with the TTB support. See the close-up photo to see where they scalloped out a section and welded it up. Also note some of the other support plating, doubling, and tabbing they did before reassembly.

The Josh and Dustin are having a lot of fun getting the right seals back on the front hubs and rotors. A real PITA, from what they tell me. Buying the 'right' kit is more of an art than a science...especially when Checkers Auto Parts lists 99 different part numbers for the seals. Glad it's them and not me. I'd be swearing up a storm.

They also got the 8.8" axle and rear leafs out yesterday. Took the center section apart pulled out the two axles. They told me the passenger side axle is 'toast' (I haven't seen it face to face, so I'm not sure what 'toast' means.) Any suggestions for a local source for some new 31-spline HD axles to replace the stockers? I bought my r&p's and rear TruTrac from AllJeep.com...and have sent Waybe a PM for a price quote.

What about an 8.8 diff cover? Mag-Hytec? FMS? Other?

Ordering the disk brake kit from TSM Manufacturing, http://www.tsmmfg.com/2530.htm. $590.00 with calipers.

More next weekend.

 

[Corban_White]

On the brake lines, I would re-route them so it goes hard line to near the pivot point, then flex onto the arms, then hard to near the knuckle, and then flex to the caliper.

 

[slcpunk74]

lookin good. I hear good things about DP too.

 

[denhabr]

Brake Lines & dp custom fab...

On the brake lines, I would re-route them so it goes hard line to near the pivot point, then flex onto the arms, then hard to near the knuckle, and then flex to the caliper.

Great idea. This is a perfect approach for a TTB front end. I did call Autofab's primary fabricator (Darren) and spoke to him about line length, and he surprised me when he said that all I need is a brake line that is about 3" longer than stock (in the front.) Go figure. So I plan to take the old OEM lines from the truck and take them over to EVCO and see what Robert Clay can do for me.

lookin good. I hear good things about DP too.

Yes, Dustin does great work...and the tubing and TIG work is gorgeous. His MIG welds on my suspension look like TIG welds!

 

[denhabr]

Sept Update 1...Shock Mounts & 8.8 axles

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG (broncospeed.com)
That's funny, I was thinking that it was weird that Ford put the A/C Box so close to the Autofab mount. Ha! There's not a lot of room there to begin with. It's just the way it works out. Like I said before, porting the reservoir off the bottom of the shock would be ideal.
​

HA!

Just what the hell was Ford thinking, eh? I spoke to Darren at Autofab yesterday (John's fabricator) and they are intimately aware of the proximity of the rear 10" upper shock mount. He fabricates a special tight 90 res hose fitting that resolves the issue, but I'll rely upon my fabricators to figure out something...first step is to contact S-A-W and see what is available off the parts shelf.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokenbronco (broncospeed.com)
I wouldn't be surprised if those are name brand axles, JBG buys in bulk, so they get good prices from top notch suppliers.
​

You're right. JBG replied the other day and said that their axles are Yukons. So, I checked back with my ring gear/TrueTrac supplier (Wayne @ www.alljeep.com, one of RME's vendors!) and got a complete set of Yukon 1541h alloy axles (R: YA F880007 & L: YA F880008, wheel bearings, seals, and new 1/2"-20 studs for $190 to the door.)

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Next steps are the trussing of the axle housing (yeah, you know us young 49-year-olds love our trusses!), reassembly, and reinstall.

I also purchased some new Ford OEM leaf spring eye bolts, and will use Royal Purple 75W-140 in the front (the owner's manual says "4x4 Gear Oil" F1TZ-19580-A in the D44. The Ford parts man says that has been superseded by XY-75W140-QL...which is nothing more than 75W-140 lube) and some F1TZ-19580-B "Motorcraft High Performance Rear Axle Lube" in 80W-90 for the 8.8, non-synthetic. Apparently Eaton does not recommend synthetics with the TrueTrac diff.

Pics:

1. Yukon vs. OEM Axle
2. The passenger side axle wear mark at the wheel bearing boss
3. Wear detail (must have had a bad bearing before, which was replaced...but the axle was not)
4. Inside of the gutted 8.8
5. 8.8 front yoke
6. Backing plate and wheel bearing
7. New gear lube and eye bolts

 

[denhabr]

Sept Update 2...To Glass or Not To Glass?

Got the front end resting on the springs...and the driver's side tire mounted up. Leveled the rear end to ride height, and this is what I have to deal with.

See the detailed photos below...

So, do I have to now spring for fiberglass? Or can I get by with what I have? Honestly, I had budgeted for a rear 8.8 disk brake kit, but with things so tight now in the front wheels wells, I may have to divert those funds for some Autofab "Ashley Style" F&R glass (http://www.autofab.com/92-96.htm)

Note that the front bumper is going by the way of the dumpster, so the front side will clear...but underneath? And the trailing section of front wheel well? The upper lip (apex) of the wheel well (where the inner liner bolts in?)

Also, I will be having my fabricators prepare some sort of plating structure to prevent the A/C evaporator housing from getting whacked by the passenger side tire.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Just get it and be done with it?