Utah BroncoSpeed - FOR SALE (see adverts section in RME4x4)

[denhabr]

To Glass or NOT to Glass...

Some responses from the Broncospeeders over at fullsizebronco.com (Broncospeed forum...and my Utah Broncospeed build thread...) http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146007 ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokenbronco (broncospeed.com)
You could also do a little creative fender trimming like the bfg bronco.
​

Frankly BB, I think that trim work looks perfect to me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCM GLX (broncospeed.com)
It looks great sitting at ride height.. what springs are you running (too lazy to go back and read through it all....) Here are my suggestions. It looks like you still have not aligned it, I would do that first, because that can definitely change height, angles, etc etc etc... then, take a look and check for clearances. Many of us are running 35's with a 4-5" Lift, and stock fenders, so I would assume you should be able to do the same. You would likely need to trim the front bumper a bit and loose the lower spoiler, but I do not think you need to jump the gun to get the fiberglass yet. Just my two cents..
​

I'm using Autofab's Skyjacker brand springs that John supplies with his 16" travel dual 2.5" shock system (http://www.autofab.com/16lift.htm)

And no, I didn't order John's jack screws to adjust the F ride height.

Roger on the alignment (and then check for clearance.) And the front bumper is going away anyway...to be replaced with a full tubular prerunner bar/light bar/brush plate similar to Image 1 below (don't know who you are, but your front prerunner bumper is exactly what I want on my '96.) Also note the trimming of his wheel well fender just behind the front wheel, as per BB's suggestion above...

Appreciate the feedback! Frankly, that was exactly my thinking up until I saw the truck last Friday...and then had doubts. So I thought I would ask you guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda (broncospeed.com)
Keep the stock fenders. You can trim the bumper and fenders. Even have a body shop do a small flare job. The truck will look much better than swapping to glass fenders. 90% of the trucks with glass look like crap.
​

Thanks mda! You, BrokenBronco, and TCM GLX all convinced me to keep the stock stuff. The small flaring and trimming of the rear lower fender profile seem a helluva lot easier than messin' with glass, rattles, fit-n-finish, vibration, paint work, and $1250 for the glass (not to mention the tubular frame John sells to mount the F glass...) Rather spend that on the rear 8.8 disk brake kit and other misc. goodies...

Thanks all!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

So what do you RME guys think? Sticking with the stock steel is the right approach?

Local RME-friendly auto body shops here who could do that kind of trim/paint work? Jack Kesler?

 

[Corban_White]

I agree. If you were stickin' out like 7 inches then I could see the glass but not for just a couple. Cycle the suspension (with the springs removed is the easiest) and see what hits-then decide what needs to be done.

 

[Greg]

... So what do you RME guys think? Sticking with the stock steel is the right approach?

Local RME-friendly auto body shops here who could do that kind of trim/paint work? Jack Kesler?

Here's some work for you to see what Jack Kesler Customs is capable of... their work starts on that page and goes on for several more pages.

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=60064&page=9

That was a joint project between Ben Hanks Racing doing the build and fab work and Jack Kesler Customs doing the finishing body work and paint. From what I've seen, I wouldn't hesitate going to Jack for body work.

 

[denhabr]

Nov Update #1: Work resumes...

After a bit of a work stoppage due to 'real' day-jobs and overseas travel, work has resumed on my '96:

1. Engine Compartment: Everything is going back into the engine compartment now, including all of the crap that had to be moved or repositioned for the Autofab shock hoops and cross bar. We had to remount or relocate the vacuum reservoir, air pump filter/muffler, battery tray, and misc. relays and fuse blocks. Not to drastic...just some creative redecorating.
2. New Advanced Air Cleaner Systems Cyclonic Air Cleaner: The secondary fabricator and shop owner had a brand new-in-the-box paper element filter just lying around, so I purchased it for the Bronco. Would have had to relocate and mount the OEM filter box anyway, so I decided to step up to this cyclonic unit. It will be mounted inboard of the driver side shock hoop, adjacent to and above the driver's side valve cover. The challenge will be to place the MAF sensor in a position that won't jack up the emissions and give me a CEL. According to a contact we have at Cobb Tuning, moving the MAF closer to the throttle body is OK, but away from it is a no-no.
3. Wheel-wells: The primary fabricator also got the wheel-well liners back into place. Nice clean fit, with a little more trimming around the shock bodies still required.
4. Rear 8.8 Axle: The secondary fabricator just put together the rear 4.56:1 r&p and the new Eaton Detroit Truetrac diff. He'll also truss it over the top, axle tube to axle tube.
5. E4OD Deep Pan: Purchased a new E4OD pan from PATC in Bossier City, Louisiana. It's a PML brand (www.yourcovers.com) deep aluminum pan for the E4OD, which adds another 3.5 quarts of ATF. I wanted this on the transmission before it was all buttoned up. It required the radius arm rear mount x-member to be removed and re-fabricated...as the new deep pan made contact with the Autofab x-tube. Oh well...I tried to find the pan that had the most amount of room there at the back slope, but I missed it by that much!

Next steps:

• Finish the rear suspension (install axle, Autofab leafs, links, shocks, etc)
• Get it on all fours (woo-hoo!)
• Get the brake lines hooked up and bled
• Install the front shock tower brace
• Get the engine started and Utah safety and emission inspected (by the end of the month!)
  
• Safety cage fab & install
• Locate and install Mastercraft seats x 4
• F&R prerunner bumpers fab & install
• Mount & wire front Hella 4000 (2) & 500 (2) lamps

 

[denhabr]

Nov Update #2: Shackles

Had to get some new shackles for the Autofab leafs. The OEM ones we just took off were pretty corroded, and after a little bead blasting, were found to be heavily pitted. God only know what condition the bushing itself was in...

Purchased two new Ford OEM shackles, #EOTZ-5776-A, at $43.21 ea...had to purchase one at Ken Garff in AF, and the other at LHM Ford downtown. Ugh!

Fabricators will be doubling/reinforcing the leaf-end bolt boss, and boxing-in the open section.

This new Ford part seems to be powder-coated from the factory, too.

BTW...does anyone have any good retail sources for a pair of Hella 4000s (Euro beams, #H12560021, with a harness/relay?)

 

[denhabr]

Nov Update #3: 8.8 Center Section...

The 8.8 center section is assembled. My fabricator had some issues setting up the Yukon 4.56 r&p. He said he must have spent at least eight hours going back and forth with the 8.8. The weird thing is the front Dana 44 Yukon r&p went together without an issue and set up quickly...but the rear was a PITA.

Got the FMS diff cover on, too.

You can see the 'cardboard truss' in position on the top of the housing. He said if I can keep it dry, it should last a long time. Said he would use some extra duct tape on it too...just in case.

Brought the new shackles to the shop today. This should allow them to have the rear axle in and bolted down, trailing arms installed, and the new lower Autofab shock tabs welded in place by the weekend.

 

[denhabr]

Nov Update #4: Axle & R Suspension In!

Making progress...

• Rear Suspension: The 8.8 is mounted and all bolted up. Trailing arms are attached and the lower 12" SAW shock mounts are attached to the axle. All that remains is hassle of plumbing in the new rear brake lines and fittings. SAW reservoirs are being mounted up under as well.
• Exhaust: The guys had to sacrifice the rear section of the Magnaflow exhaust for the sake of the leaf spring installation. Will probably have to have them cannibalize the tubing and route it out back between the RR shackle and gas tank...exiting at the rear of the truck. We'll see how this turns out...
• Front Suspension: Is in and ready...except the Autofab cross bar. Awaiting the final positioning of the Advanced Air Cleaner Systems filter housing...below
• Air Cleaner Housing: Trying to get this into 'just the right spot' between the engine and the drivers' side shock hoop. Then get the MAF sensor between it and the tubing leading to the throttle body.
• Leaking SAW 16" Shocks: I now have two leaking 16" SAWs...the ones that mount to the front of the TTB (both sides.) My fabricators say they sometimes ooze fluid near the seals since what was there captured during assembly (between the seals, wipers, and bushing) will often leak out. Once it empties out, it should stop...but we will know for sure when the reservoirs get charged with Nitrogen. See pic...
• Lug Nuts: Mocked up the new HD lug nuts on one of the wheels...just to see what they look like. These are open ended with the conical flare on the business end to properly mate up with the OEM seat. Hollander 611-171 (see box pics...) Got rid of the chromies.

Now I'm facing a Utah State emission and safety inspection...due at the end of the month.

I hope everything goes back together and I don't see a CEL. Nothing has been been removed in the engine compartment...just 'repositioned' (like the MAF.) Shouldn't be an issue...I hope (timing is everything, right?)

Any suggestions on this?

Thanks...

 

[Corban_White]

The only thought I have on the safety and emission is that it isn't really a big deal to let it expire. No extra cost and only a very small extra hassle to get it done when you are ready. (either trailer it to the inspection location or go get temporary tags)

 

[denhabr]

UT Emissions & Safety...

The only thought I have on the safety and emission is that it isn't really a big deal to let it expire. No extra cost and only a very small extra hassle to get it done when you are ready. (either trailer it to the inspection location or go get temporary tags)

Corban_White: Thanks for the feedback. OK on the expiration issue. I am just afraid to draw fire from the emission/safety Nazis and have them flag my file. I still plan on calling them tomorrow and asking them about an extension. After all, the Bronco is in the shop up on jack-stands. If they can appreciate that, then I can work them.

I just don't want to shovel out a lot of cash with penalties for late reg, etc. if can't really help it...

Thanks again, and appreciate the feedback.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Corban_White: Thanks for the feedback. OK on the expiration issue. I am just afraid to draw fire from the emission/safety Nazis and have them flag my file. I still plan on calling them tomorrow and asking them about an extension. After all, the Bronco is in the shop up on jack-stands. If they can appreciate that, then I can work them.

I just don't want to shovel out a lot of cash with penalties for late reg, etc. if can't really help it...

To emphasize Corban's point, there is no late registration penalty. You simply renew it just the same. I don't know what they would flag your account about? They inspect expired rigs all day long., I've registered vehicles that are anywhere from 1 month to several years late all the time, never an issue. The one and only issue that could arise is getting pulled over the day you drive it to the inspection shop, and as rare as that is it would be even rarer imp for a leo to issue you a ticket if you had the registration stuff sitting on the seat next to you. If your that worried about that issue they offer a 14 day temporary registration for just that instance.

 

[denhabr]

Utah Registration ( Emissions & Safety Inspection...)

To emphasize Corban's point, there is no late registration penalty. You simply renew it just the same. I don't know what they would flag your account about? They inspect expired rigs all day long., I've registered vehicles that are anywhere from 1 month to several years late all the time, never an issue. The one and only issue that could arise is getting pulled over the day you drive it to the inspection shop, and as rare as that is it would be even rarer imp for a leo to issue you a ticket if you had the registration stuff sitting on the seat next to you. If your that worried about that issue they offer a 14 day temporary registration for just that instance.

Kurt: Thanks. I spoke with the DMV lady today and after explaining my circumstances, she suggested exactly what you did...get the 14 day temp reg so I can drive it around and get the emissions and safety inspection completed...w/o the hassle!

Appreciate all the feedback. Just call me a worry wart! :-\

 

[Will3161]

Concerning the actual inspection, I would ask around to see what shop is best. It's a pain when you know there is nothing really wrong with your vehicle except some minor details and the shop flags you in hope of getting some more money out of you.

 

[denhabr]

December Update 2... (I know...it's LATE!)

The Bronco is back on all all fours, and bearing the weight well! And the icing on the cake is the engine was started and the 5.0 is up and running for the first time in 7 months! All this with the Advanced Air Cleaner Systems filter and relocated MAF. Haven't heard if there is a CEL or not... Keep your fingers crossed!

So, the suspension is "done", and it is now drivable (although I have not been up at the shop since before Thanksgiving...) Shame on me.

Next steps are a Utah State Emissions and Safety inspection, and then back to the shop for the safety cage and F&R prerunner bumpers! The fabricators are super psyched about this 'cuz, as they say, "they are fabricators, and not suspension mechanics..." and are really looking forward to the designing/bending/welding part. Works for me!

More pics over the holidays when I get a bit of a break from business traveling and project management...

Thanks to all for the great support and feedback!

 

[denhabr]

December Update 3... (I know...it's LATE too!)

Looks great man, can't wait to see the finished product. Bumpers seem to add that finishing touch that really sets a truck off from the rest.

Thanks, Beck... I haven't even seen it since it's been back on all fours! The fab shop closed up for the holidays, and I've been elsewhere...so I guess I'll have to check it out next Friday when I get back from Colorado.

I agree...the prerunner bumpers DO finish off the truck real well. Many of the very cool designs that have appeared here at GFB (and over at FSB) will be incorporated into my F&R bumpers. Below is an example of what my front bumper is going to look like...with a lot of forward extension away from the front grill, with room for four lights...two Hella 4000s mounted to the center, and two Hella 500s mounted to the outside.

Here are some of the designs that I admire and will incorporate into my F bumper...the black Bronco is the BFG Bronco, me thinks.

 

[denhabr]

January 2010 - Update 1

Finally visited the shop last night and got some pics...hell, it's been almost two months since I've seen it and checked it out. Too long! Christmas holidays and a new project in neighboring Colorado just got in the way...

• Runs Great...Almost: My fabricators have been out driving it around (to reset the OBDII computer with enough miles to smog check it...) and it's performing well. However, they said they are experiencing a shudder while driving...under power. As they coast in neutral, it seems to go away...so they think it may be the E4OD. I didn't have any problem with transmission before I brought it into the shop, so maybe I'll have to get it over to the transmission shop when it is done. Anyone else experience a shudder while driving, in gear? Drive line?
• Air Cleaner: Check out the pics of the very cool air filter system/MAF housing/intake duct! Now THAT is fabrication! These guys did a great job mating the Advanced Air Cleaner System canister to the MAF housing. They used flex fittings/clamps to connect the ?-shaped bend from the MAF around to the intake splitter and back up to the throttle body. The canister is supported by a A-frame tube (off the shock-hoop cross bar) that holds it up and above the engine bay and away from the engine/brake booster. A single clamp holds it all together. And NO CEL! Woo-hoo!
• Rear Bumper: Dustin knocked out the rear bumper in a day...finishing it as I was watching him last night. Positioned the license plate to the side. This will allow the fitting of the original received hitch back into it's original position so I can still tow stuff. Rear bumper is bolt-on, so it can be removed for repairs, cleaning, painting, etc. End tubes are cut a little wider to compensate for a future fiberglass project...should I so desire.
• Front Bumper: Josh was tackling the front bumper, and by the time I arrived at the shop, he had already trimmed back the front frame horns and was applying the fixed brackets to what was left. The front prerunner bumper will also be bolt-on.
• Misc: The new HD lug-nuts work and look great (if a tad bit smallish...). All of the Hellas are in (4000 Euro beams in the center, with 500s to the outside)
• Exhaust: Is still lobbed off and terminates after the muffler. Really thinking about re-routing it to the passenger side and down in front of the right rear tire...at least for now.
• Axle Truss: Still needs to go on...but now that the rear axle is bolted away, this may be a biotch to get in now, but I'll let Dustin worry about that.

Next: Off comes the roof and in goes the safety-cage.

 

[denhabr]

January 2010 - Update 1 (more pics...)

Some additional pictures...

 

[denhabr]

January 2010 - Update 2 & Comments...

Wow! looking great so far. that's a VERY nice job they did on the intake.

Yeah, the guys did a real nice job on that intake system. Probably the best example of their handiwork so far.

Brad, with the filter placed where it is, aren't you worried about not getting any cool air?

I am a bit...but there were few little options once the Autofab shock hoops went in. I may have to fabricate some fresh air ducting to the pre-filter, but for now, I'll live with it and see how it performs. Win some...lose some, I guess.

Looking really nice Brad!! Seems like you are on the home stretch! Cant wait to see pics of it out and about!!

Hey...that makes two of us! I think another month of cage work, final details, and loose ends, and it will be back in MY driveway!

 

[denhabr]

January 2010 - Update 3 & Comments...

wrote:
You shouldn't have any issues with the intake or intake temperatures. these engine bays are extremely open, and the egt's really aren't high.

I was kinda' hoping that would be the case. I thought about the position of the new filter as opposed to the old OEM location/fresh air ducting, and couldn't do much about it. I was thinking that I could try and route some cold air ducting from the front over to the filter, and/or louver the hood above it to allow some upwards venting and release of the hot engine bay heat...but I'll just wait and see how it performs. The IAT (intake air temp) sensor has been remounted into the new filter and hopefully that will compensate for things. News at 11:00!

wrote:
looks great. your fab guys are doing an awsome job!

Yeah, Josh and Dustin are doing a great job. They are just happy to now be in the part they like the best...fabrication, and have been really going to town on it (they weren't all that enthused about the suspension stuff...as they call themselves 'fabricators', not 'mechanics.'

You'll see in my next posting the results of the F&R bumpers and the initial stages of the safety cage!

wrote:
Any plans to paint or powdercoat all those parts?

I do...but that may have to wait until late spring/summer. Both F&R bumpers can be unbolted and sent to the powdercoaters or paint shop, so I'll address then when I get the Bronco back home. I was thinking of a gunmetal grey/argent color. Thoughts?

 

[denhabr]

February 2010 - Update 1

The bumpers are done, lights installed (but not wired up yet), and the interior gutted! The cage is being fitting with the main upper longitudinal bars in place, and partially tied into the frame through the floor in the front and rear. The upper front headliner bar is in place and next are the B- and C-pillars.

• Safety Cage: The rear of the cage was modified to give me the widest area to load stuff and store things behind the second row seats. Where the "D-pillars" come back down from the roof line to the rear tailgate, there is no real frame under the bed...so my fabricators brought up tubing from the frame into the bed and tied it together with a cross-beam. The D-pillars are then brought into the end of the cross-tube, and braced with an angle tube to stiffen the assembly.
• Spare Tire Mount: At this point, the spare is going back on the OEM Ford swing-away mount. Just no room in the back for a 35" tire (besides, I want to carry my tools, a cooler, and other crap back there anyway.) So the guys are going to re-fit the OEM spare tire mount and strengthen it as necessary to handle the weight.
• Front Bumper: The front prerunner bumper looks like it should be on the front of some Army MRAP* in Iraq! Damn thing looks like it weighs a ton, but appears pretty damn solid. I told the guys that I wanted a front bumper that pushes out a bit from the grille, and that is what they gave me. They also made the front brush plate at a nice shallow angle, and tied in all it's supports to the frame. Some nice lightening/cooling air holes at the top, and it's done!
• Rear Bumper: The rear bumper was all finished off with a set of tabs for my plate, a tab to hold the plate light, and Dustin even got the old U-Haul receiver hitch bolted back in to it's original location...w/o interfering with the bumper. he even fabbed a tab to hold the trailer wiring receptacle.
• Seats: Tomorrow (Super Bowl Sunday), I plan to go back to the shop and help them position the 4 new Mastercraft 'prerunner' seats. Should be some fun!!!

P.S.: I was really surprised as to how crappy the OEM floor was under the pulled-up OEM rubber matting! Yuck. My original plan was to Line-X it or U-Coat it myself...and somehow coat/paint/cover the cage tubing. But what would the "GFB experts" recommend? I even thought of re-carpeting it with some sound deadening matting underneath (Dynamat, etc...)

Thoughts?


* Mine Resistant Ambush Protected amored vehicle

 

[denhabr]

February 2010 - Update 2 (more pics...)

Some final pics from yesterday...