Utah BroncoSpeed - FOR SALE (see adverts section in RME4x4)

[denhabr]

I've used J&G Trans for several transmissions and always had great results. They are good people. If you don't mind me asking, what did the frame acid wash/coating run? I've been wanting to do something like this for a while. I like the dust light too... Any pics of how it's mounted?

bryson...Thanks for the positive review of J&G Transmissions. I visited them last summer and had a good talk with Bret. He can do all the things I want with the E4OD that I am hoping to include on the build (full heavy duty rebuild, Alto/Kolene clutches/steels, TransGo 'Tugger' reprogramming kit, upgraded supports, steel planetaries, 6-pinion forward carrier, new solenoid pack, yada yada...)

So, yes, I'll keep them in mind...

Lodder's in Bountiful. Scott there is a helluva tranny guy. He knows those trannys inside and out.

...along with Lodders in Bountiful. Thanks rholbrook!

The acid wash/sandblast/coating job by Air Vision ( http://avtruck.net/ - 5302 W 2400 South England Ct, West Valley City, UT 84120, 801-887-7187) ran me $1390.00. Not cheap, for sure, but it has held up amazingly well with NO sign of rust anywhere...AND the skin cancer that was appearing at the top of the RR wheel arch has subsided too. They must have sealed that water access point too...thankfully! One less thing I have to worry about going forward!

Here are some pics of the mounting of the dust light. Hopefully are of enough detail that they'll answer your questions. BTW, Joe Housley at Addit 2 Your Toy did all of the dust light install and wiring. Joe is a Vietnam Vet, and a former 101st Airborne Division trooper...and his fab/racing shop (he is into import drags and rally cars) is there in Sandy at 9468 S 560 W, Sandy, UT 84070, (801) 569-1300. He also recently did my dual remote oil filter installation, which you will see in a subsequent posting here later today...

 

[denhabr]

Utah Broncospeed - ICE Update...

This last spring, I had a car stereo local shop (James @ Drive In Audiosound - www.driveinautosoundslc.com/ - 7601 S State St, Sandy, UT 84094, 801-601-8259, install my new stereo in my Bronco, consisting of:

• Head Unit: Sony #MEX-GS810BT AM/FM/CD HD BT Radio
• Amplifier: Massive Audio #BX4 (4 x 120W) 'Nano BiT' Amp
• F Door Speakers: Kicker #DS65 (6.75" 2-way oversized)
• R Speakers: Kicker #DS693 (6x9 3-way...modified to fit the OEM 6x8 openings)

...and I couldn't be happier. The new "quiet" interior combined with the Massive Audio 120W/channel amplifier and those Kickers...resulted in a total transformation of the interior.

I wanted an HD radio, and when I heard about this particular model from Sony, I waited for almost a year before it was released late last Fall to the USA...and I am glad I waited. The HD radio is just great, and since I listen to a lot of FM (classic rock, jazz), and even a fair amount of talk radio, it was well worth the wait to get THAT model with just the features I wanted.

I purchased the radio from Crutchfield (got the extra Metra installation kit and wiring harness for free,) and James put it all together with a Scosche amp installation kit, mounted the Massive Audio amp up underneath the dash...securely...and then adjusted the audio levels to produce some amazing sound.

Cost:

• Sony MEX-GS810BT Radio: $240 (Crutchfield...included free Metra #70-1770 wiring harness, and Metra #30-5512C faceplate kit)
• Massive BX4 Amp: $250 (Drive In Audiosound)
• Scosche E-1000 4 Ga. Amp Kit w/ RCA cables: $70.00 (Drive In Audiosound)
• Speakers: Kicker speakers (4): $108 (Amazon)
• Installation: $257

Total: ~$925.00

 

[denhabr]

Utah Broncospeed - Dual Remote Oil Filter Installation...

After wanting to do this for years now (and eliminate...permanently...the messy oil filter changes with the stock filter location...grrrr...

...due to the fact the OEM oil filter pad is literally right at the front engine cross member, and Ford engineers literally had to make an opening in the member to allow the FL-1A filter to spin on the 302 small block!), I had Joe Housley @ Addit 2 Your Toy (9468 S 560 W, Sandy, UT 84070 - 801-569-1300) here in Sandy, UT, do the install of a complete dual remote oil filter system a few weeks back...

The new system included:

• Derale/TransDapt #1030 Dual Remote Filter Mount (for FL-1A sized filters)
• Earl's #1178 Remote Filter Adapter
• Misc. Earl's Flare Fittings & Hose Ends (-10AN)
• Braided SS Hose (-10AN)
• Motorcraft FL-1A Filters (2 EA) [to be replaced with a pair of the yellow Purolator #PL30001 'Pure One' filters at next oil change...]

And Joe (a Vietnam Vet with the 101st Abn Div...) did a great job (as usual.). I had him install the remote mount where the old OEM air box was located, and after fabricating a mounting pad (and re-securing the old radiator overflow/windshield washer fluid tanks), everything came together like a charm. Joe used Earl's -10AN fittings (instead of the Jegs fittings,) but other than that, everything went as planned.

After a two minor leaks were fixed: 1.) Where the -10 flare fitting went into the remote mount, and 2.) A minor "oozing" leak on the top of the Derale dual remote mount (yes, oil was actually seeping through the top of the casting along where the ribs are...through some small fissures located there due to poor casting techniques and quality control...hmmmm) by using some marine-grade JB Weld (which is the grey filler you see on the top of the filter pad), all is well!

Now oil changes are a snap...no fuss, no muss! That, and I've increase my oil capacity by at least a quart (the second oil filter + the added capacity within the hoses themselves), and have a nice way to plumb in a remote oil filter, AND install an oil pressure sending unit too!

Some pictures...



(Next project...installation of my Bassani #50150BC headers by Don B. at Master Muffler at 700 E in Sandy, UT)

 

[denhabr]

Need to Clock Ford 8.8 - Local Fab Shop?

After a recent visit to GRS Drivetrain (Steve Pugh) here in SLC, I found that the source of my rear axle/driveshaft noise is the mis-alignment of my rear axle pinion with the driveshaft (at the rear U-joint.)

Since my Bronco's driveshaft has a double cardan joint, the driveshaft (after the double cardan) should be in perfect alignment with the 8.8's axle pinion. But mine is not. I had my Autofab F&R suspension system installed here in Utah 6 years ago, but the shop that did it is not currently available to perform this fix.

Any recommendations for a local SLC/Sandy/Draper/Lehi/AF fab shop that can clock the rear axle so that pinion and the driveshaft line up...using shims between the axle and the leafs, all while dealing with the Autofab leading arms that are connected to brackets which are welded to the 8.8 axle tubes?

See photo below...



Above is a pic of the older Autofab long travel rear (with emulsion shocks.) Mine however is the newer Autofab version utilizing RaceRunner 2.5" res shocks.

Thanks!

 

[Greg]

Hey, I was wondering about this Bronco the other day... good timing!!

 

[denhabr]

Fall 2015 Update (yeah, a little behind the 8 ball...)

Hey, I was wondering about this Bronco the other day... good timing!!

Thanks Greg...here is more updates since last summer! A lot of things to report on!

First up: Bassani Headers...
-------------------------------------------------------------------
After purchasing the Bassani #50150BC headers and then hanging them in my garage for the last 3.5 years

...just "waiting for the right day..." I finally got them installed by my local Master Muffler shop (700 E in Sandy, UT), and their top technician/fabricator Don.

They went on fairly easily, but they encountered some minor challenges during the process:

• Spring buckets/shock towers, AACS air filter/MAF tubing/mounts, and shock tower cross bar impeded progress by limiting easy and open access from the top side of the engine
• The coupling flares on the down pipes weren't 'flared' enough to cover the end of the Bassani collectors, necessitating some new down pipes
• ...but that actually turned out OK, as the shop knew they had to weld in new oxygen sensor bungs just below the flare (as the Bassani 501050BC headers do not have the O2 bung welded into the collector as delivered from the factory), and having new downpipes allowed for easier welding
• The passenger side header was seriously close to the frame and the starter...almost necessitating a small frame notch near one of the primary tubes (I still may have them do that as the clearance is about 1/8th of an inch)
• The passenger side header also came near the RF wheel brake line (as the line was relocated slightly when the Autofab suspension was installed)...so that was slightly modified to add a few more inches of clearance...and I will most likely put a heat shield wrap on the brake line and a thermal blanket wrap on the starter...just in case
• Will need to figure out how to secure the top end of the dipstick, as the bracket it once bolted to is now gone

So far, the engine runs great, no CEL, and is no louder than before. However, I think I have to get through that "OBDII drive cycle" to get it to be ready for for my Utah State emissions and safety inspection next month (and once all the sensors are 'calibrated', the CEL won't come on!)

Here are some pictures of the headers when I bought them in February of 2012, then installed, and the OEM cast iron exhaust manifolds that came off the Bronco. Note the small 1.75" opening at the outlet to the cast iron manifold (pictures to follow in next posting!)

 

[denhabr]

OEM 96 Bronco Exhaust Manifolds...

...in case anyone is interested:

 

[denhabr]

August 2016 - New General Red Letters and AR23 Wheels!

Just spent some buckaroos on new wheels and tires for the Utah Broncospeed!

• American Racing AR-23 wheels (4), #AR235885, 15" X 8", 5 ON 5.5, from Jack's Discount Wheels (and Free Lugs!) on Amazon.com for $91.5/wheel!
• General Grabber Red Letters...35x12.50-15, $189/ea plus all the other 'fees'
• Wheelmate #33004U Monster Open End Lug Nut (Set of 20) 1/2-20 Thread BLUE

Pics attached! Can't wait to get these off road and try them out!

Ohhh...and I'm going to the Off Road Expo in Pomona this weekend too! Woo-Hoo! Flying down to Burbank in the AM with the better half, hitting Universal Studios on Friday, and the ORE on Saturday!

Next update will be on my ham radio installation that I did back in August!

73's...

KF6PSL

 

[denhabr]

Misc. Updates - April/May 2017...

Just washed and photos taken of my new'ish AR23 wheels and General Red Letters, 35x12.50R15...

Now I need to go get it dirty!

Today I'm starting my center console design, and will soon kick off it's fabrication, and then install of my two Ham radios (Kenwood TM-V7A 2M/440 and Ranger RCI-2950 10M), along with some gauges from GlowShift...and of course an assortment of cup holders...natch!

Gotta' get all this done before I head up to support the Idaho Rally International (Rally – idahorally.com) up near Boise as a Special Stage Comms Captain in early June, and the Kat'cina Mosa 100KM Mountain Run (Kat?cina Mosa Homepage | Mountain Oasis Adventure Runs) ultra marathon through the Wasatch Mountains above Provo, UT as a Aid Station Comms support in early August!

(I'm still considering a flush mount gated shifter from Art Carr/Winters (#337-1, E4OD regular pattern) for the center console...but...I still haven't made up my mind on that. Besides, how would I route the OD button from the stalk? I guess folks just move the toggle to the dash... E4OD Shifter - GoFastBroncos.com)

 

[denhabr]

1st Oil Change...in 4.5 Years?

OK...so a full 20 months later after a previous posting (about my dual oil filters)...I finally performed an oil change...my first change in 4.5 years!

However, it's only been 3700 miles since that same last change.

Whew!

So to you answer your question Matco (from FullSizeBroncos.com "Broncospeed" section), it took a wee bit over 6.0 quarts of regular Mobil 1 10W-30 with the stock oil pan and the dual Purolator PureOne PL30001 (e.g., Motorcraft FL-1A, Fram PH8A equivalent) remote oil filters.

Frankly, I thought I would have had more than 6 quarts...as the stock oil capacity on my 5.0 (N) is supposedly 6 quarts (yes, there are numerous threads on that topic already...so no need to start THAT discussion all over again...) But still...maybe I have the wrong dipstick, and my oil pan level is artificially low? Who knows...but my eventual engine rebuild to a 331 stroker will include a slightly kicked-out oil pan, as I am trying to achieve a full 7-qt. pan capacity.

Plus with all of the oil I added over the last 4+ years, along with the conversion to dual remote FL-1A oil filters 20 months ago, it was 'kinda' like I did at least one oil change since October 2012, right? (or am I fooling myself?

ha!)

And yes, I still have the dreaded rear main oil seal leak...dripping ~1/2 dollar sized marks on the driveway, which really isn't that much, but when I'm driving I do get that burned oil smell every once in awhile. I probably should have used the newer Mobil 1 10W-30 'High-Mileage' stuff. So maybe next time, in another 4.5 years!

Ha!

P.S.: Now the Bronco is all ready to work the Idaho Rally International this weekend in the Boise National Forest just NE of Boise, ID. See: 2017 Idaho Rally Information for specifics. Woo-hoo! Serving as Special Stage 3 & 5 (Grimes Pass) Comms Co-Captain on Saturday...with my Kenwood TM-V7A mobile and Icom IC-W32A HT inside my Bronco. Making the 360 mile drive from SLC to Boise tomorrow morning...then we hit the dirt in Placerville, ID!

 

[denhabr]

New Phase I Upgrades - Form Follows Function...

As I alluded to in my recent posts, I started a series of what I call "New Phase I" upgrades...enhancements to take my initial build to the next tier...upgrades designed to add some real functionality and features that will make my Bronco even more reliable off road. That, and fix/polish up some annoying things that have gone unresolved since I bought the Bronco in 2008.

So since I have a LOT more time to play with the Bronco (having left the world of IBM consulting and 'road warrior' status...), I've really gotten back into my ham radio hobby with a vengeance. So after essentially hanging up the radios for about 13+ years, I am now able to start using the Bronco again at local and regional sporting/social events where I can support activities with the Bronco and my radios. After all, I did build this as a 'rally support vehicle' after having done a ton of research in the late 90's with numerous visits to SoCal and AZ-based fab shops. So these New Phase I series of upgrades come at the right time for me to enhance the Bronco and really start enjoying it this summer...and well into the future!

New Phase I Upgrades:

• Clocked Rear Axle & U-Joint Upgrads
• Big 5 Wiring Upgrade to 1/0 Cable & Grounds
• New Dual AGM Batteries
• New High Amp Alternator
• New HD Battery Mounts
• New HID Projector Headlights and New Rear Euro-Style Housings
• S-A-W 2.5" Res. Shock Rebuilds and Tuning

1. Clocked Rear Axle & Spicer "Life Series" HD Lubed-for-life U-Joint Upgrade (by GRS Drivelines, SLC, Utah): I cannot believe that I waited 8 years to get this fixed. As it turns out, my original fab shop installed my Autofab rear suspension with the 8.8 axle pinion in parallel with the output shaft of the transfer case. So from day 1, I've had this annoying vibration and sounds from my rear axle. When I took the Bronco to a local shop last August (GRS Drivelines, SLC UT) for some new greased-for-life Spicer U-joints, they said they'd only work on it after I had my rear axle properly clocked. It needed to be where the 8.8 pinion was in alignment with the incoming driveshaft (e.g., nearly zero deflection in the rear U-joint.) So I went back to my fabricator and he properly clocked the rear axle as desired (see picture). In doing so had to shorten the Autofab trailing arms wee bit. But when I drove away, all the noise and vibration vanished! Holy cow! I then took it over to GRS a week later and Dirk installed the new Spicer "Life Series" 1350s in the double-cardan joint (along with a new centering kit), and a 1410 u-joint in the rear. Suh-weet! Talk about smooth and quiet performance? The trip to Boise and back last month was truly a pleasure with this new driveshaft!
2. Big 5 Wiring Upgrade to 1/0 Cable & Extra Ground Wires/Straps (by Drive-In Audiosound, Sandy, Utah): I started with the basic "Big 3" battery wiring upgrade to 1/0 cable, and made sure all the grounds were upgraded as well. My shop (Drive-In Audiosound, Sandy, UT) specializes in competition sound systems, and James Williams knows his stuff when if comes to high-amp wiring (not to mention he is a licensed ham radio operator, too). So that wiring upgrade became the basis for all the rest of the stuff I have planned this summer. James also used military-style battery terminals on the Odyssey PC1750 (see below), and used soldered (and crimped) lug ends on all cables.
3. New Dual AGM Batteries - One starting & one amateur radio deep-cycle high Ah rating (by Battery Systems of SLC, Redwood Rd.): I purchased a new Odyssey #PC1750 (950 CCA Group 65 AGM starting battery) for the engine compartment, and a back-up Centennial #CB12-120S (118Ah deep-cycle AGM for the rear compartment) to power my two amateur radios (a Kenwood TM-V7A 2M/440 radio, and a Ranger RCI-2950 10M radio). The two radios will be wired directly to the Centennial battery using Anderson PowerPoles and red/black zip wire. James also installed a Stinger battery isolator as well.
4. New High Amp Alternator - DC Power Engineering 270 XP (270 Amp 3G) https://www.dcpowerinc.com/7768-6k-270-xp.html: James works with DC Power Engineering for nearly all his competition audio systems (often times using dual and triple alternators!), so with my unique power demands (Hella 4000 and Hella 500 off-road lights, Massive #BX4 4x120W stereo amplifier, ham radios, 10M linear amp, future sub-woofer, etc...), 270 amps will be more than enough...and with 180 amps at hot idle (200F)
   
   , I should have no worries for any future upgrades.
5. New HD Battery Mounts (from Artec Industries, North SLC, Utah): I've actually been driving around with a smaller Group 31 starting battery for years...as the Autofab shock hoops prevented the OEM Group 65 battery from fitting into the stock battery tray. D-oh! So I made sure that when I upgraded both batteries, that each would get it's own HD off-road battery tray/mount! I found Artec Industries (here in SLC) at the SLC Off-Road Expo 2016, and they make some nice mounts...so I went with them. James found a way to mount the PC1750 the same way the stock battery was mounted, so I didn't have to relocate the vacuum canister or anything else on the passenger side of the engine compartment.
6. New HID Projector Headlights and New Rear Euro-Style Housings (by HID Retrofit LLC, Sugarhouse...and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BeSeenLightz/) : My old housings were cloudy and the left one's internal reflector was loose and rattling around inside...not to mention the water inside the housing. So I found HID Retrofit LLC here in SLC, and the proprietor built me some real nice clear housings with chrome reflectors (not that I need them), using some cool HID reflectors with hi/lo beam and halo rings. The halo rings also flash in amber when that side turn signal is on, but remains white otherwise. I first used these new lights at the Idaho Rally International last month in Boise, and wow, what a difference. There is a sharp cutoff on lo beam (they have to be raised again as they are just too low) as I find that I overdrive my lights on dark back roads. I also had him upgrade the rear lights to some new Euro-look clear lights that have a dark bezel. Really a nice improvement all the way around!
7. S-A-W RaceRunner Shock Rebuilds and Tuning by Desert Speed Shock Tuning, Santaquin, UT: Who knew that I had to rebuild my Sway-A-Way RaceRunner shocks!
   
   When I was getting my axle clocked (above), my fabricator found that my left front forward shock was leaking at the lower seal, and suggested that I should get them rebuilt. After a little online research, I found Desert Speed Shock Tuning here in Utah, and set-up a rebuilding and tuning session with Matt in late June. A few weeks ago Matt took my Bronco on a trailer and hauled it off to his shop, and then started rebuilding all six shocks. Last Friday, he brought the Bronco out to the desert (on the old Pony Express Trail in fact), and I took the Bronco for some warm up runs. After some slight warmup (and a check that all six were actually warming up and not getting hot,) we went for a more aggressive/higher-speed run...and videoed some runs using his GoPro. Again, with just the rebuild and some guess-work on Matt's behalf, it was a night and day difference from the rock hard ride I've had for the last 8 years. So this was the first tuning evolution, as Matt took the video back (along with my feedback) and is planning the second tuning session for 28 July...where he will tear apart all six shocks (again, this time in the field), and soften them up even further (focusing on mid-stroke compliance.)
   
   Note: I once attempted to get some shock tuning ideas from John Ehmke (owner of Autofab) back in 2014, but he referred me to Sway-A-Way. So on a business trip to SoCal later that year, I visited S-A-W in Chatsworth...and actually spoke to their President. However, he referred me back to John...and was hinting that the spring rates were probably way too high. Oi! So I wasn't about to start a pissing contest between the two, so I gave up...until now. So if you have special emulsion, reservoir, or by-pass shocks on your Bronco, do yourself a HUUUGE favor and get them rebuilt and tuned to the type of driving you want! Shocks are such a huge investment...and your shocks should be working for YOU! Matt does great work!

The photos are embedded below (and on subsequent posts) for your viewing pleasure.

Next: Planned Phase II Upgrades:

• Custom Center Console for Ham Radios/Accessory Switches/New Glow-Shift Gauges/Cup Holders
• Subwoofer with Dedicated Amplifier
• New Grill and Headlight Surrounds (already purchased...just need to paint and install!)
• Ford XLT Gauges with Tachometer Install (I've only had the gauge for 2 years now...just haven't installed it yet!)
• Saginaw P/S Pump Upgrade (Again, I've only had the pump/bracket from an E-150 for 3 years now...Ugh!)

Future: Planned Phase III Upgrades:

• Custom built 331 Stroker Motor
• Custom built E4OD Transmission
• Supplementary Cooling for Transmission & Engine
• New 2-row Radiator and Continental 'Elite' Radiator Hoses

 

[denhabr]

New Phase I Upgrades - Form Follows Function...more photos...

And even more photos...and I forgot about the Hi-Lift Jack from 4WP...

 

[denhabr]

It's up for sale folks!

1996 Ford Bronco Chase/Prerunner (a.k.a., "Utah Broncospeed")

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Definitely an amazing build