Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
Is that pulley setup so you can use the winch to compress the front suspension?
General Tech What did you work on Today?
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Shop filling up with projects over the weekend.
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
Brought home a new kitchen.
Some assembly required...
Replaced a door.
Had to modify the framing to make the opening bigger.
Re-did some plumbing.
And removed a couple of bath tubs. Along with a mouse house left behind under one of them.
Some assembly required...
Replaced a door.
Had to modify the framing to make the opening bigger.
Re-did some plumbing.
And removed a couple of bath tubs. Along with a mouse house left behind under one of them.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Yes sir. When there’s slack, there are return springs that keep it on the pulleys.
ID Bronco
Registered User
- Location
- Idaho Falls, ID
My Grandpa lived in Tropic Utah. There is a steep hill out of town and they would push the family truck down the road to keep quiet, then have to go reverse up the hill out of town. He loved telling us that story. We went down there so he could show us. It was cool to imagine it like it was back then.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Replacing this built-in with a new “free standing” wood stove in the house (which I haven’t gotten yet). Gonna focus on getting this one ready to setup in the shop. Any suggestions for parts (sources?) welcome. I’m aware of dimensional requirements and basic design safety, but very much a wood stove rookie. 🤷♂️
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I'm in a similar boat. I just picked one up for our home last week but now we are talking about the possibility of moving next year so I think I'm gonna save it for the next home or shop.
Double wall stuff seems like the way to go but for a shop single wall might still be what you want as you'll get way more heat off it...? I'm rookie AF too so I'll be watching what you end up doing.
Pile of parts
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan
Allred's in Midvale or even Sutherlands in Salt Lake are good places to source stove pipe. Double wall where it passes through walls/ceilings. It also allows you to have pipe closer to a wall. Obviously you need to know what the stove mfg. rates the stove proximity to walls. Also, watch KSL. Lots of people removing wood stoves and stove pipe. About the last thing you need to know is how high above the roof pitch the top of the stove pipe needs to be. I'm no expert either, just learned a few things putting mine in - and then forgot the details once it was done...
The best thing I have ever done was get rid of the wood stove in my garage and go to a furnace. I converted it to run off of a propane tank, so it's very basic and simple. Warms right up, no smoke smell, and is vented to the right places.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Just be aware that there are usually code specs far as the the height off the ground, it has to do with flammable fumes spreading on the ground and getting ignited by the stove.
You should also look into building a large brick wall around the stove, to act as a heat sink and hold onto warmth over time.
A fan will really help spread the warmth around, one or two of those big ass ceiling fans would be great summer and winter.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
From a convenience standpoint, I hear ya. However, we heat the house on propane and the current prices have me extra motivated to burn some wood. 😂
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
All great info! Part of the reason I removed this one from the house is because we had a chimney/stove guy out to clean and inspect. We knew the previous owner did everything half-ass and figured he also installed the stove. Sure enough, it was about as unsafe an install as you could get. Lots of dimensional issues in relation to combustible materials and pipe routing issues too. I’ve now become more familiar with stove height, distance requirements, pipe routing, etc… Hadn’t thought about a brick wall, but big ass ceiling fans were already on the future shop build list. In the meantime, I’ve got several good fans I pulled from my unused horse stalls that I’ll repurpose. 🤘
- Location
- West Haven, UT
I started on the 1977 Chevy C10 truck for a fellow forum member last night.
I started by getting ready to drop the front axle when I noticed the brake hose that was twisted. That's not good. Also, the drag link was trashed so in addition to a raised steering arm it will be receiving two new rod ends and adjusting sleeve for the drag link.
Steering stabalizer, tie-rod and drag link all removed so access to the diff. cover could be accessed easier. Shocks removed and all axle U-bolts have been soaked with penetrant. Driveshaft dropped at the axle end and leaf spring bolts came loose after soaking with penetrant for about an hour while I removed the other components.
After removing the locking hub I walked to my top drawer of my toolbox and pulled out a socket that has seen a LOT of use over the past 35 years but not so much in the past decade or so. I wonder how many others have tools from their high school days still in their toolboxes?
Amazingly I walked right to it and grabbed it from its location even though I hadn't used it in over a decade. It shows a bit of wear but works perfectly. I love old patina'd tools that just flat work.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
I started by getting ready to drop the front axle when I noticed the brake hose that was twisted. That's not good. Also, the drag link was trashed so in addition to a raised steering arm it will be receiving two new rod ends and adjusting sleeve for the drag link.
Steering stabalizer, tie-rod and drag link all removed so access to the diff. cover could be accessed easier. Shocks removed and all axle U-bolts have been soaked with penetrant. Driveshaft dropped at the axle end and leaf spring bolts came loose after soaking with penetrant for about an hour while I removed the other components.
After removing the locking hub I walked to my top drawer of my toolbox and pulled out a socket that has seen a LOT of use over the past 35 years but not so much in the past decade or so. I wonder how many others have tools from their high school days still in their toolboxes?
Amazingly I walked right to it and grabbed it from its location even though I hadn't used it in over a decade. It shows a bit of wear but works perfectly. I love old patina'd tools that just flat work.Thanks for looking.
Mike
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
The older I get, the more joy I find in my older tools like that which are tied to so many memories. I've learned so much, but never enough.
NYCEGUY01
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Willard, UT
Im not even sure if I have one of those... I have a few much larger ones out there Im guessing were for 14 bolt rears or something...
I have half a drawer of stuff Ive used a hand full of times in 20 years and there is no way Ill remember what for Until I need one and then Ill remember "oh yeah" I have that...lol
Had my knee scoped and a bunch of stuff scraped and cut out yesterday morning so today I am a keyboard warrior all day.
Unfortunately Summit and Jegs sites seem to all be working perfectly, so to quote Joe Exotic....
"I may not ever financially recover from this"...LOL
I picked up the 5.3 Monday night so may as well start ordering parts to get that put in at some point...lol
Man, I cant wait to see this thing sitting on the new wheels and tires..LOL
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Same. I think the ball joint tool works for D30 as well? (at least the TJ/XJ/ZJ/MJ units?)
ID Bronco
Registered User
- Location
- Idaho Falls, ID
I included one of those when I sold my rig, I knew he'd need it.