General Tech What did you work on Today?

[moab_cj5]

Finally mounted my new to me winch. Should have taken some pics of spooling the rope on, but didnt.

 

[kmboren]

Finally mounted my new to me winch. Should have taken some pics of spooling the rope on, but didnt.
View attachment 120147

View attachment 120148

View attachment 120149

Looks good in there. Here is your old winch. If you zoom in you can not see it.

 

[moab_cj5]

Looks good in there. Here is your old winch. If you zoom in you can not see it. View attachment 120160

Awesome! Glad its working out for you.

 

[The_Lobbster]

Looks good in there. Here is your old winch. If you zoom in you can not see it. View attachment 120160

I like this picture, my friend in her samurai in the background always seems to photobomb everybody.

 

[The_Lobbster]

Started installing my cage this past weekend. I have everything welded up except the main bar. I'm planning on sandwiching my flatbed frame with some 1/4" plate, and bolting it down, so it'll all still be removable. Then I plan on running more DOM down to the frame, and then cross bracing the main bar to prevent it from racking if I do flop.

 

[bryson]

The weight of 1/4" plate on that bed will require a second engine for that poor Sami!

Is there a reason you need to keep the factory B-pillar bar? I kept it on my Sami build and regretted it later - too many compromises with strength and aesthetics IMO. Also, I think it actually made the project more difficult overall by keeping the stock tube there. If I was doing it again, I'd build the cage 100% from scratch.

 

[The_Lobbster]

The weight of 1/4" plate on that bed will require a second engine for that poor Sami!

Is there a reason you need to keep the factory B-pillar bar? I kept it on my Sami build and regretted it later - too many compromises with strength and aesthetics IMO. Also, I think it actually made the project more difficult overall by keeping the stock tube there. If I was doing it again, I'd build the cage 100% from scratch.

It won't be on the entire bed, just a small strip like 4"x8" or so, to help distribute the load a bit. The engine is a 1.9 TDI as well, so I have plenty of power.

I used the stock roll bar, just widened it, if that's the "b pillar" you're referring to? I just used it because that's all I had. I will be putting a cross brace up on it as well to prevent any racking possibility. This cage kit is from LowRange, and everything just snaps together more or less. I don't have a bender to build anything really. Everything else is DOM. I'm hoping it'll hold up okay, but I guess we'll see haha.

 

[kmboren]

I like this picture, my friend in her samurai in the background always seems to photobomb everybody.

She killed it in the sami. The courses where tight and narrow so she dominated in that thing. Wasn't even a close 2nd place.

 

[Pile of parts]

Can we call this the "What did you work on the last year and a half? Thread???

I'm not good at documenting or creating build threads. I have posted a few pictures here and there throughout the build. Anyway, Monday- Memorial Day, I finished and pressure washed the floor. I, along with friends/family, performed every phase of the build except for the stucco and the floor. I laid it out and had a brother in law excavate. From footings/foundation to the top, it was all us. Nights after work, Saturdays and not much of anything last winter. (the dogs HAD to go chukar hunting) Finally done.

I have enough LED lighting to blind you and radiant heat so I can spend my winter's out there. It took a long time but it will sure be nice for future projects.

 

[Tonkaman]

Wow!

 

[YROC FAB.]

Started installing my cage this past weekend. I have everything welded up except the main bar. I'm planning on sandwiching my flatbed frame with some 1/4" plate, and bolting it down, so it'll all still be removable. Then I plan on running more DOM down to the frame, and then cross bracing the main bar to prevent it from racking if I do flop.

All that new tube work and your going to leave the factory b to b hoop. B to B hoops give me cancer. I like a the smooth transition of the A to C pillar. I dig your metal car port turned garage, brings back memory's.

 

[J-mobzz]

It won't be on the entire bed, just a small strip like 4"x8" or so, to help distribute the load a bit. The engine is a 1.9 TDI as well, so I have plenty of power.

I used the stock roll bar, just widened it, if that's the "b pillar" you're referring to? I just used it because that's all I had. I will be putting a cross brace up on it as well to prevent any racking possibility. This cage kit is from LowRange, and everything just snaps together more or less. I don't have a bender to build anything really. Everything else is DOM. I'm hoping it'll hold up okay, but I guess we'll see haha.

I think it is rad you’re working with what you have. Turning out great. Thanks for sharing the progress.

 

[The_Lobbster]

I think it is rad you’re working with what you have. Turning out great. Thanks for sharing the progress.

Thanks! It's kinda on a budget. I managed to find the front half of the Lowrange kit for $100 brand new.

All that new tube work and your going to leave the factory b to b hoop. B to B hoops give me cancer. I like a the smooth transition of the A to C pillar. I dig your metal car port turned garage, brings back memory's.

I understand it's not perfect, but it's better than nothing. I don't have access to a bender, or the money to do all brand new DOM either though. I don't plan on rolling it necessarily, but if I do, hopefully I don't die. Unless you want to bend me up a new bar?

 

[SLC97SR5]

With the help of some buddies, installed a ducted whole house fan.

After seeing how well ricsrx's worked to cool his house, I had to have one.

It will easily pull 5 degrees out of the house running on low for 30 minutes.

 

[4x4_Welder]

Nice. I'll probably need to do something like that on my place, but the white shingles should help as well.

 

[YROC FAB.]

Thanks! It's kinda on a budget. I managed to find the front half of the Lowrange kit for $100 brand new.



I understand it's not perfect, but it's better than nothing. I don't have access to a bender, or the money to do all brand new DOM either though. I don't plan on rolling it necessarily, but if I do, hopefully I don't die. Unless you want to bend me up a new bar?

I would if you was closer and new what you want.

 

[Tonkaman]

With the help of some buddies, installed a ducted whole house fan.

After seeing how well ricsrx's worked to cool his house, I had to have one.

It will easily pull 5 degrees out of the house running on low for 30 minutes.

Ooh I’ve been curious about these! So do you think it’s definitely worth doing? That attic is huge! Do you think it would work as well in smaller scissor trusses?

 

[SLC97SR5]

Ooh I’ve been curious about these! So do you think it’s definitely worth doing? That attic is huge! Do you think it would work as well in smaller scissor trusses?

In short. Yes. Absolutely worth doing!

Our place is a 3300 sqft rambler. There is conflicting information if you should include finished basement space in your CFM needs. I split the difference. The fan is oversized for the main floor and undersized for the entire square footage.

I purchased a Quiet Cool CL-5400 and the e controls USA RT2 wireless controller. The controller was way harder to find and research online than it should be but it enabled me to not add in-wall wiring for a Hi/Low switch and timer. It also has a thermostat function.

The old school direct drive and belt drive fans are very affordable and move a ton of air but they require cutting the rafters or building a sub frame. The older fans are also difficult to insulate and usually use a swamp cooler style grill/damper. The main reason I didn't use a 36" old style is the noise aspect...they are effen loud.

The whole principle is that once the outdoor air is cooler than the indoor air, you open the windows to the room you want to cool/ventilate. It draws cooler air in through the house and exhausts it into the attic. The result is fresh, cool air dragging the heat out of the walls, furniture, and most importantly attic.
Once the house cools to the outside temp you close it up and give your A/C a fresh start on cooling the house once the heat load sets in during the afternoon.

The other morning at 5am the house was 67* but outside was 55*. We opened 4 windows several inches and had the house down to 57* by 7am!

In reality all these are is insulated exhaust fans that purge your whole house and attic. They are also excellent to use while cooking or showering.

I've put a ton of time into reading about these...I'm happy to answer anything.

 

[Jesser04]

In short. Yes. Absolutely worth doing!

Our place is a 3300 sqft rambler. There is conflicting information if you should include finished basement space in your CFM needs. I split the difference. The fan is oversized for the main floor and undersized for the entire square footage.

I purchased a Quiet Cool CL-5400 and the e controls USA RT2 wireless controller. The controller was way harder to find and research online than it should be but it enabled me to not add in-wall wiring for a Hi/Low switch and timer. It also has a thermostat function.

The old school direct drive and belt drive fans are very affordable and move a ton of air but they require cutting the rafters or building a sub frame. The older fans are also difficult to insulate and usually use a swamp cooler style grill/damper. The main reason I didn't use a 36" old style is the noise aspect...they are effen loud.

The whole principle is that once the outdoor air is cooler than the indoor air, you open the windows to the room you want to cool/ventilate. It draws cooler air in through the house and exhausts it into the attic. The result is fresh, cool air dragging the heat out of the walls, furniture, and most importantly attic.
Once the house cools to the outside temp you close it up and give your A/C a fresh start on cooling the house once the heat load sets in during the afternoon.

The other morning at 5am the house was 67* but outside was 55*. We opened 4 windows several inches and had the house down to 57* by 7am!

In reality all these are is insulated exhaust fans that purge your whole house and attic. They are also excellent to use while cooking or showering.

I've put a ton of time into reading about these...I'm happy to answer anything.

How much did the whole thing cost if you don’t mind me asking.

 

[SLC97SR5]

$1050 for the CL-5400 and $140 for the remote and a Maverik run for the help.

You can install switches for about $50 and eliminate the remote.

The price of the fan depends on CFM and style of motor, ie PSC, ECM.

This unit registers 45db on Low and 48ish on high. This is measuring with my phone 3ft from the grill.