- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
The cool thing about this rig is the H1 reduction portal outers. He can run stock drivetrain parts and gearing because there is so much less leverage on them. It's also a TINY car. We were checking it out yesterday.
General Tech What did you work on Today?
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
I pulled one of the 3/8" bolts out of the cover then threaded a stud into it and then mounted the shifters off of the stud. I thought about welding to it but decided I would prefer if it stayed flat lol
The dana 300 is the least of my worries, with the 1.4 motor and all the gear reduction after the T case I honestly done forsee it being an issue
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Made some progress on my bumper.
I've been wondering what you had in mind for the back. Now it makes sense. very nice.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I'm basically copying one made by Brave Motorsports. Theirs is $700 plus $150 for shipping, but I want a receiver in the bumper and they won't add one. It doesn't make much sense to pay $850 for a bumper, remove the powdercoat, weld on a receiver, and have it powdercoated again.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Thank you, sir.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Last night my son and I made some decent progress on his rear cargo area in his WJ.
The Mac’s Black Box is designed for the rear of a Jeep JKU so we had to cut and modify the front mount and fabricate new rear mounts to work in a WJ.
Front mounting plate.
Squaring up some .625” thick plate.
Cut, machined square and drilling holes to 1.375” on center to match the holes we are utilizing in the rear cargo area.
Block sitting down in the void to bring up to flush.
Test fit successful. One down one to go.
After more drilling time to break out the TIG welder.
Passenger’s side mounted.
Driver’s side mounted.
Box removed with mounting brackets remaining.
Curved body plates for the rear hoop cut, drilled and mocked into place.
Short length of tube cut and notched.
Sleeves cut and ready to weld into the half that will be bolted to the floor.
Next will be to bend a hoop that goes up and slightly over the forward edge of the black box yet just behind the rear seat. This is to serve as a mounting point for his high lift jack and then an angled tube back from the hoop to the driver’s box mounting point to serve as a mounting point for his Powertank CO tank.
Hope that makes sense but pictures following tomorrow night will clear up any confusion on what we’re trying to accomplish.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
The Mac’s Black Box is designed for the rear of a Jeep JKU so we had to cut and modify the front mount and fabricate new rear mounts to work in a WJ.
Front mounting plate.
Squaring up some .625” thick plate.
Cut, machined square and drilling holes to 1.375” on center to match the holes we are utilizing in the rear cargo area.
Block sitting down in the void to bring up to flush.
Test fit successful. One down one to go.
After more drilling time to break out the TIG welder.
Passenger’s side mounted.
Driver’s side mounted.
Box removed with mounting brackets remaining.
Curved body plates for the rear hoop cut, drilled and mocked into place.
Short length of tube cut and notched.
Sleeves cut and ready to weld into the half that will be bolted to the floor.
Next will be to bend a hoop that goes up and slightly over the forward edge of the black box yet just behind the rear seat. This is to serve as a mounting point for his high lift jack and then an angled tube back from the hoop to the driver’s box mounting point to serve as a mounting point for his Powertank CO tank.
Hope that makes sense but pictures following tomorrow night will clear up any confusion on what we’re trying to accomplish.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Last night’s work consisted of bending the rear cargo area hoop and welding the floor plates.
Before closing up I cut out a couple of 1/4” thick tabs in which to use as mounting points for the hi-lift jack on the hoop.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
Before closing up I cut out a couple of 1/4” thick tabs in which to use as mounting points for the hi-lift jack on the hoop.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Don't want to full cage it, this isn't structural, just an attachment point for accessories so they aren't loose in the back.
Thanks.
Mike
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Just a thought, on the bolts on the floor, why not a Hex Socket Flat Head bolt instead of a normal bolt. You can counter sink it and smooth that surface up. That will allow things to slide in and out without scratching things up.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Those hex head's are for mockup only. I'll be using button head fasteners upon final assembly, not enough meet to fully countersink, plus nothing will be sliding in/out as it will be more of a pocket back there one the Black Box is installed.
Mike
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
I figured you would have it all thought out as usual. Me on the other hand would have it secured with Duct Tape
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Did I miss how you formed these to match the wheel tub?
(just wanting to know how the cool kids do stuff
)
(just wanting to know how the cool kids do stuff
)
BCGPER
Starting Another Thread
- Location
- Sunny Arizona
