Which Drivetrain Setup?

[sixstringsteve]

you and coco and your requirements for good looking rigs

Only issue with yota trucks is if they're single cab I don't fit too well. In the 81 I had to take the e brake out cause my knee was constantly hitting it and I was steering with my thighs.

I think most toyotas have a lot more room than the 81. That had a modified floor, tunnel, and seats. That being said, not everyone fits in a single cab.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Plus I want my wife to wheel with me and she won't go in anything ugly.

We all know that a pretty rig is a criteria set by you, not her. I will say, you always have good looking vehicles.

 

[Cascadia]

It probably is my criteria mostly but she will not go if she doesn't like it.

But thank you for the comment steve. It definitely costs me a lot more to have a pretty rig than a capable one. I need to get my priorities straight.

 

[sixstringsteve]

tyson, get this now.

http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/10113985
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?91092-92-Toyota-Pickup-V-6-Manual-SAS-lots-of-EXTRAS!!!

 

[Cascadia]

Looking to start a buggy this winter. Wondering about drivetrains again. I don't have the money for a nice chevy drivetrain. I've always been happy with my 4.0's off road with their torque. I was thinking about a 4.0, aw4, and np231/d300. But what about a jeep 5.2? Are they reliable and much more power than the 4.0? Is the auto trans strong enough? I was wanting to stay pre 99 to avoid all the wiring. If like to keep the wiring as simple as possible. Is that possible with the 5.2?

 

[RockChucker]

I maybe wrong here, but I am into my 5.3 about $1500 with purchasing the engine, harness, and computer and tune. I sold my 4.0 for $800. The cost of a Chevy drivetrain is not really in the drivetrain itself but all the extra little things like a radiator and hoses, electrical connectors etc. I don't know that a 4.0 would really save you a ton of money in the long run because you'll still have to buy all of that.

That's my $.02

Edit: I also only sold the 4.0. No harness, or computer

 

[skippy]

definately go with the chevy drivetrain they weigh less than a 4.0 make way more power and get better fuel mileage, if you are worried about spending an extra couple hundred on a drivetrain, you really shouldnt build a buggy then because every single part of the project is going to be over budget and if a couple hundred bucks is going to make a huge difference you really have no chance at ever finishing the thing


DISCLAIMER: Not trying to sound like a dick, just basing this on numerous real world occurances

 

[Cascadia]

If its only a matter of hundreds then its not a big deal. That's why I'm asking. Trying to figure out what would be best and not blow the budget. I'm not doing the build all at once. It'll take at least a year. So if more funds needed to be found I have time and could go for the better components. The reason I was thinking 4.0 or 5.2 was because I know there are tons of them around for cheap enough.

 

[skippy]

The 4.3 is a decent enough motor but you are still only within a couple hundred bucks of a 5.3, I just sold a 4.3 for 500 bucks and i have seen numerous 5.3s listed for 500-800

 

[skippy]

Not to mention when you decide to sell the buggy.....and we all know you will. It will be much easier to sell with an LSx motor not to mention you will be able to sell the buggy for more money because it has a desired drivetrain

 

[Greg]

No matter what drivetrain you choose, it's going to cost you a certain amount of money.... sure some things will cost more & others less, but in the end it will all add up. Might as well get 'decent' parts... aka no Dodge drivetrains.

My suggestion, a GM TBI 350, 700R4 trans and if you like the doubler, the 231 Box4Rox with a Dana 300. Wiring is cheap and parts are easy to find and cheap. Should be a stout, affordable drivetrain.

 

[sawtooth4x4]

Rover V8, ZF transmission, LT230,

 

[benjy]

Quick update on our cost... Additional $7k for the motor/trans from a 4.0L/NV3550 to an LQ4/TH400. Almost double what I budgeted, and about par for my ability to plan the cost of a build At the end of the day, the LQ4 won't get us out wheeling more frequently, which is all that really matters. The swap was fun, and the LQ4 was knocking really bad, so I don't regret it, but I missed a full season of wheeling and now life changes won't allow us to seriously wheel again for a couple years (time for a dirt bike?).

 

[Cascadia]

No matter what drivetrain you choose, it's going to cost you a certain amount of money.... sure some things will cost more & others less, but in the end it will all add up. Might as well get 'decent' parts... aka no Dodge drivetrains.

My suggestion, a GM TBI 350, 700R4 trans and if you like the doubler, the 231 Box4Rox with a Dana 300. Wiring is cheap and parts are easy to find and cheap. Should be a stout, affordable drivetrain.

Is there a big difference in a 5.3 and a tbi350? Power wise, cost wise, wiring wise? I don't have the patience for wiring things so I'd most likely end up paying someone to build a simple harness. Any on rme do this and what are prices like for something like that?

 

[Cascadia]

Quick update on our cost... Additional $7k for the motor/trans from a 4.0L/NV3550 to an LQ4/TH400. Almost double what I budgeted, and about par for my ability to plan the cost of a build At the end of the day, the LQ4 won't get us out wheeling more frequently, which is all that really matters. The swap was fun, and the LQ4 was knocking really bad, so I don't regret it, but I missed a full season of wheeling and now life changes won't allow us to seriously wheel again for a couple years (time for a dirt bike?).

Why did it cost so much more than planned? Sounds like its time to rent me your TJ for the weekend. Someone might as well use it.

 

[mombobuggy]

It is not impossible! The pile that won the top truck challenge buggy class last year was built for $ 2000. less tires. I recently saw it in person. In Arkansas. Ugly is not a strong enough word. And I thought mine was ghetto.

 

[Greg]

Is there a big difference in a 5.3 and a tbi350? Power wise, cost wise, wiring wise? I don't have the patience for wiring things so I'd most likely end up paying someone to build a simple harness. Any on rme do this and what are prices like for something like that?

The TBI will have more torque on the bottom end than the 5.3, but much less top end. If *I* were going to build a TBI engine, it would probably end up with Vortec heads (you'd need a special intake) and a roller cam... but when you start building engines, $$$ add's up quick. Best bet is to find a well-running engine & trans and use them as-is.

You can buy a simple standalone harness for a TBI engine and they're cheap & SIMPLE. You could handle wiring it on your own... IIRC, 4 wires to hook up, everything else plugs in. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Painless-Wi...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1026c115

 

[Cascadia]

Are there goods and bads of a Dana 70 and Dana 70u compared to a 14 bolt? What are they?

 

[RockChucker]

a D70 has a 10.25 ring gear and a ~1.25" 29 spline pinion shaft like a D60. a 14 bolt has a 10.5" ring gear, 1.75" pinion shaft, a third pinion bearing, and it is a snap to set back lash and carrier preload with the adjuster sleeves. but you are limited to basically an ARB, Grizzly, or Detroit locker. Actually, the D70 probably has about the same slim number of locker choices...

 

[Cascadia]

How about a dana 70u?