YJ 1 tons and links build

I haven't used Ruff Stuff shock towers before, but based on your pictures, you are not supposed to french them into the frame? I'm sure you have checked your clearances between the tire and where your shock will be. How close is it? It would be a lot easier not to french the frame, but I didn't think it was possible without very small backspaced wheels or spacers on a 14 bolt.
 
At the moment it looks like I shouldn't have to French into the frame. I am running only 3.5" of back spacing though. Won't know for sure until the ORIs get here in a few weeks. If i do have to it should be minimal. While I wait on those I need to weld up all the rear links and mounts and figure out how I am going to bend 1.5" x .25 wall DOM for my panhard.

I am also thinking about tackling the brake system while it is down rather than try it with the stock setup just to find out I don't have enough pressure or volume for the 1 ton calipers. Leaning towards getting a dual diaphragm booster from a 95 YJ and a larger MC. Haven't decided for sure yet what the plan is there.
 
Harbor Freight pipe bender works great on thicker-walled tubing. Or I've bent 1.25" .281 sleeved with 1.5" .120 in my bender...larger total wall thickness than your .25" wall, but not sure how much harder it is to bend....anyway, it bent fine, but did bend the pin going through my follower die. That means Tyler's bender should be able to do it as well, being similar-ish to mine. ;) Just plan on replacing a pin, or maybe get a long 7/8" bolt to use as a "consumable" just for this one set of bends?
 
I Lean said:
Harbor Freight pipe bender works great on thicker-walled tubing. Or I've bent 1.25" .281 sleeved with 1.5" .120 in my bender...larger total wall thickness than your .25" wall, but not sure how much harder it is to bend....anyway, it bent fine, but did bend the pin going through my follower die. That means Tyler's bender should be able to do it as well, being similar-ish to mine. ;) Just plan on replacing a pin, or maybe get a long 7/8" bolt to use as a "consumable" just for this one set of bends?
Click to expand...

We have already bent a pin before back when that bender was manual, and that was just with .120 wall non DOM. Others have suggested using a torch to get the tube red hot and then bend. I am thinking that maybe with some heat we can get it, but I like the sacrificial bolt idea too.
 
I have bent the 1.5" .25 wall on my HF bender by heating it up with the torch first. On my son's Jeep the track bar I made for his high steer took some bending and it worked out well with heat. You can come use my bender if you want.
 
DaveB said:
I have bent the 1.5" .25 wall on my HF bender by heating it up with the torch first. On my son's Jeep the track bar I made for his high steer took some bending and it worked out well with heat. You can come use my bender if you want.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer Dave. I will give it a shot with my dad's bender first. If I fail there I will get in touch with you.
 
1993yj said:
We have already bent a pin before back when that bender was manual, and that was just with .120 wall non DOM. Others have suggested using a torch to get the tube red hot and then bend. I am thinking that maybe with some heat we can get it, but I like the sacrificial bolt idea too.
Click to expand...

At that time we were using much smaller pins though. We are using a larger pin since we did Carl's mods to it.
 
After doing some more measurements today I think the easier option is going to be to move it forward a few inches. If I leave it where it is, once I bend it to clear the diff, it might contact the bottom of the radiator.
 
Got the control arms fully welded up. Special thanks to Carl for re-tapping the threads in one of the left hand bungs that I accidentally got some splatter in the threads. Working on getting the link mounts fully welded up and then the ORIs should be here tonight so that i can get those mounted.

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