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$6/ miles shipping? FWIW, a rollback truck can carry a 20' container just fine.

If it's an old drive, try sticking the drive in the freezer for a bit, sometimes they'll come back enough to extract data. This may be a one shot deal though, so plan accordingly. If it was made in the last decade or so it may not work.

Disassemble and scotch brite it to clean it up as much as possible, then grease and reassemble. If it's binding now, though, it may continue to bind with a load on it. That can cause a popping sound getting on it or letting off, and can also cause trans/t-case damage.

I went to school with a kid who drove a modded bus that had "high volkage" painted across the back. It needed to be jump started often.

I've had good success with a thorough Simple Green bath, wire brush loose areas, and paint with the engine paint from Oreillys. I did my FE in Ford grey, with the heads in the aluminum color. I painted my VW and Ford IDI in green though. I wish they had a darker green.

Ok, I got some incorrect info on this. It was last sold in 2003, but was deregistered in 2013. So, it will need a new airworthiness certificate, new N number, etc. Still not cheap. Without logs it'll probably need the engines overhauled (good idea due to time sitting anyway), I'd be...

That thing hasn't been registered since 2003. It will not be cheap to get back in the air.

You'll want something that can take a decent pass. My previously mentioned 46" snowblower was adapted onto a Yanmar tractor, and worked great through the winter hellscape of eastern Oregon a few years back. When I was in Rexburg, I had the blower mounted on an 18hp Craftsman tractor and it...

I added strips I cut from a conveyor belt on my old Craftsman 46" blower, once I got the drive ratio dialed in on my tractor it did pretty well. As a bonus, using rubber flaps makes them much less sensitive to rock damage.

A single stage is better in light powdery snow, but can clog with wet heavy snow. A two stage is better in wet snow to a point.

I know where there's a 6.9, but I haven't seen any 7.3s around here. I'll be pulling mine eventually in favor of an Isuzu 4HK1 out of an NPR, but it'll be a bit before I can afford that. The IDI can be sleeved, if the bores are excessively worn.

https://eastidaho.craigslist.org/cto/d/idaho-falls-2004-cadillac-escalade-esv/6984975516.html Just a quick look at Craigslist. That one is probably a 6.0

Which side is the front diff on on that Jeep? If it's left side, you could drop a complete Escalade 6.2 engine/trans/t-case setup in it.

Nice. Now you have a draining point for the trans pan as well. I have a cheap HF 180° hook tool for pulling those seals, it works very well and you'd have to try hard to damage anything. Just stick it through the seal and pull down.

You don't need either of those wires connected, however in order to initiate charging you may need to rev the engine.

Ok, I was under the impression you could set it to be the only module on the network.

And now with the latest EPA crackdown, you can't even find anyone to tune that out of the ECU. I gave some serious thought to dropping a turbo IDI VW engine in my old Kia Sportage, maybe get something that resembled mileage out of it, but then life happened.

Nice. I used to use one of those building stainless handrail parts. It was so far beyond overkill for that job, but made some pretty quick work of rounding corners and such.

Ok, the high flow stuff is what's hurting it. The coolant is going through the radiator too fast and not shedding heat.

Too much radiator would make the returning coolant colder. Does it have a high flow water pump? Have you made sure the radiator isn't clogged? The only way for returning coolant to keep it's heat is if it went through the radiator too fast.