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That makes a lot more sense. Why would anyone buy the 1/4" version when 1/2" is only $130 or so more.

What does that actually gain you over a stock JK 44? I have not really paid that much attention , but have read that the big issue with the stock axles is the tubes are weak and bend. That the Teraflex builds use 1/4" tube seems ridiculous. 70s era 1/2 ton truck dana 44s came with 1/2" thick...

When I ran my 30 the things I broke constantly were the hubs. The first thing I would do would be to at least swap in the earlier 6 bolt ones. I actually had very good luck with the rest of the axle. I would not trade a Detroit for an Ox, but if you must have the selectable then go for it.

I would keep the Detroit. Put the minimum into the 30 you can. You would be crazy to go with RCVs but I can almost see upgrading to shafts that run the bigger Ujoints. What you are talking about doing to your 30 will cost just as much as a 44 and I would skip the 44 and build a 60.

I have standard low pinion D60s.

Got the pinion set up. The CS eliminator spacer was not even true. I measured .003" difference from one side to the other. Got it to within a thou by sanding on a flat table. Played around with pinion depth. This is the pattern I am going with. Look OK to everyone?

This project is crazy frustrating. I have been trying to set up the pinion preload with the shims supplied with the CS eliminator kit. The selection is strange. It came with a .013", one that measures .0135" (really weird), a .015", a.017, two shims that measure .022, a .023, and a .030. This...

Cut .005 off the face of the pinion support today. It should get things where I want them. Also cut a grove for an o ring. Crush sleeve eliminator.

If the bearing was not pressed on all the way or the race not into the support all the way. It would cause the pinion to run deeper not too shallow as mine does. I am going to solve the issue with a shim that will basically do just that. Yes all new bearings.

.006 -.008 Problem with the 14 bolt is moving a whole hole on the adjusters can move it quite a bit and take you out of spec quickly. I have ordered a set of shims to put under the inner pinion bearing. It will get me in the range where I have .001" adjustments. I hate to tear down the...

I am going to button it up and go with no shims, but I am probably going to second guess my self for a while. I could take the support apart chuck it up on the lathe dial it in and cut .005" off of the face in an hour or two. I also want to cut an o-ring groove into the support to seal it...

Ordered a .006"shim, the thinest available as far as I have been able find. Here is that pattern. Now I think I am shallow.

I liked the idea of the Solids too. What steered me away was reports of brakes and some aftermarket shafts not fitting without grinding. I also want to run the Bronze kingpin bushings and have no idea if the Solids maintain bore tolerances that would be necessary.

I am buying the Reids. I am going to run the Artec arms with the bolt that runs them double sheer using the stock tie rod holes. I would have sprung for the Cranes because of the key and they are cast from cromoly instead of iron, but the ones with the stock tiered arms are not keyed. I have...

I did not take any, but it definitely was shallow. If I have to chose .010 or nothing I am pretty sure nothing is better.

Thanks I'll call them. What do you think of the pattern?

The new gears are Yukon 5.38s. They do not mark them with depth code numbers. Original 4.10s had .022" of shim. I am not impressed with the Yukons to say the least.

Seems a little bit deep to me. This is with zero shims. The smallest shim I have is a .010. The pinion is too shallow with that. I would like to try a .006 shim but have no idea where to find one. Here is a pic of the pattern on the other side of the ring gear.

What do you guys think? Hopefully it is acceptable changing it may be problematic.