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I may be able to build in some down travel down the line, but I want to try it as is to get a baseline for the experiment. As for unsprung weight, I have a ton of it, almost literally, and that will be a major limitation. I don't expect to be anywhere near the realm of an ifs car, but I do want...

Her she is skinned out. Still need to install the front ring and pinion, get driveshafts built, pcm programmed, and several other odds and ends.

I like the input on the shock valving. The shocks may pack some, but I'm thinking that they won't bottom completely because of the large up travel range in which they are working. As the spring compresses farther and farther into this range, it exerts more and more force to counter the shock's...

The limit straps are tight at ride height. No down travel. Couple of reasons for this 1. If I allowed down travel at speed through rough terrain, the upper link mounts could drop low enough momentarily to move the upper roll axis down below the center of gravity, suddenly allowing for body...

Thanks. I have thought for a long time that a vehicle should be "down inside" the suspension, rather than teetering on top of it. It's definitely different, but it might just work really well. I'm hoping I can drift on dry pavement without body roll, rock crawl reasonably well, jump it, and...

Yeah, I may be figuring wrong on that, but at least the set-up still keeps everything under the hood.

Rear end pics. Rig is only 5'7" at the top of the roof. 17" of ground clearance, not a lot, but I'll always take stability over ground clearance. Long, low, and hopefully fast. Can't wait to get her finished up and tried out.

I mounted the switches and gauges up top. I'm a fan of leg room and footwell space, so I didn't want a dash to take up space. the wiring is also easier to get to like this.

Here's the front suspensions set-up. I used 2x2x.25" square tubing for the lower arms and then added additional 2x2x.25 pieces of square tubing for bracing. I bent the arms downward enough to position the lower shock eye below the center line of the flex joint eyes so that the arm would...

More on the knuckle... As you can see in the pics, I'm using 2 inch wheel spacers in the front for two reasons 1. I like width (I know, I know,...stresses) 2. I needed to adapt from the metric Ford pattern to the standard 8 on 6.5 pattern This increases leverage a lot against the ball joints...

Yes, I thought a lot about that. The links themselves will be relatively unstressed because of the leverage advantage they have with such a tall tower. But the point at the base of the tower where it welds to the housing will be stressed pretty good. I welded DOM supports on the front tower...

Engine Pics. Kind of a shoe-horn fit, but it's all there. I re-worked my own harness using the info on LT1swap.com. The website is great for information, but man is it a lot of work. I wanted my harness to be fully custom on this rig without having weird lengths of stuff everywhere to tuck...

This whole thing is an experiment, and I hope my logic is sound. We'll see when I get it out. It could be great, or it could blow up in my face after 1000 hours of labor. Either way, I will have at least scratched the itch to find out.

So here's what I was talking about regarding center-of-gravity-relative-to-roll-axis positioning. You can see that the upper link mounting points are really high front and rear. It's a very unorthodox look, but it places the drive train and most of the chassis (i.e. the center of gravity) in...

Here's a look at the front. 2005 Super Duty front axle. I chose this axle because of how far the pumpkin is offset to the driver's side. I needed this in order to have the drive shaft over far enough to clear the engine on up travel...all 13 inches of up travel:eek2:. The engine is offset 3...

I had to try this. I've been out of the buggy game for a few years, but this idea has been rattling around in my head for a long time. If I could eliminate body roll by placing the center of gravity between the upper and lower roll axes instead of above them both, then I could have a rig that...

Thanks. I was just toying with the idea of making my own free spin kit for a 2005 Ford Dana 60 front axle. Don't think it's gonna work with that spindle diameter and the size of the hole in the unit bearing knuckle.

Thanks, both of you. Yes, a rough measurement of the outside diameter of the ford spindle would be helpful.

Anybody able/willing to give me the flange diameter of a dana 60 spindle? Thanks.

Like the title says. Any suggestions? It's a 2 inch per 12 inch taper.