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Well I found out my engine was trashed when I removed the main caps to find all of main bearings some of the rod bearings have spun in the journals. So now I'll either have to have the block machined or find another engine. But on the good side I have made some progress on the rest of it. I've...

I may be intersted in your "box4rocks". If you do decide to sell it, PM me some details and if it will work for my aplication I'll buy it.

Are you saying that you can crank the engine without pushing on the clutch? Or are you saying that you push the clutch in with it in gear and the starter moves the truck? There is a switch, probably attached to the clutch pedal lever that is supposed to lock out the starter unless the clutch...

Dieseling problems are most often caused by excessive carbon build up in the combustion chamber and on the valves. The carbon creates hot spots inside the engine that act much like glow plugs. When you turn the key off you cut power to the ignition system but the hot carbon can still ignite the...

I asked the same question a while back and haven't had any luck.

Where did you get you doubler kit from? Did you use the 231/231 you had planned?

I haven't done much. I only have about an hour a day and Saturdays do get anything done. I've cut all the IFS brackets off the frame and have gotten started on what is the beginning of the front cross member and spring hangers. The cross member if being fabricated from a piece of 5x5" 3/8" thick...

Yep, I think as soon as I cut away all the IFS brackets it will begin to look a little more like what we're used to. The narrowing and widening of the frame rails in the front does make it a bit more challenging to get the front springs mounted. But I think I've got it figured out.

I am running a Vortec 350 that I bored and stroked to 383 in my truck. Only .030" is bored out of the cylinders. Hardly enough to cause cooling problems. The rest of the displacement is obtained by installing a 400 crank into the 350 to get a longer stroke. I have had no cooling problems what's...

Some udated pics...... I got the body off the frame and all the IFS stuff removed this last week. Also got the D60 front end complete. Soon I will get some steel to start fabricating the front cross member and spring hangers.

As of right now it is up and working.

I'll be there the last Thursday through Tuesday in my black S10 Jimmy, if I get it done that is.

A few degrees only makes a difference when talking about engine performance. If the rotor was pointing at the right wire, it is close enough to start the engine and determine that timing is NOT the problem. If it was the problem it is likely it would be off by much more then just a few degrees...

.....Gay!

? Never heard that before. You need to find TDC of the compression stroke in cylinder 1. Once you do that, remove the distributer cap, the rotor should point to the number 1 plug wire on the cap, if it is off, something moved. Maybe the distributer, cam etc.

If you have fuel and spark, then you have either lost timing or compression, or both. Could be the timing chain jumped. Another possible cause is a plugged catalytic converter. Remove an oxygen sensor (if equipped) to vent excess pressure and see if it starts. If none of these suggestions work...

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18.....I'm a pussy!

Joke or not, it's still the funniest ****ing thing I've heard in long time! :rofl: