4biker
Active Member
Thanks - That's exactly what I was wondering. I just picked up tranny and t-case skids from savage offroad, and was worried about the strength of the factory crossmember. If it's tough enough, I won't worry about it.
'97 tacoma build: Abner
- Thread starter sixstringsteve
- Start date
-
- Tags
- abner build build thread tacoma toyota
Thanks - That's exactly what I was wondering. I just picked up tranny and t-case skids from savage offroad, and was worried about the strength of the factory crossmember. If it's tough enough, I won't worry about it.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
When converting from a full bench to a bucket seat arrangement, you need to drill one extra hole. You can see where the factory hole is.
To make the 4runner seats fit, you can either swap out the seat rails for those of a tacoma, or you can just drill an extra hole to make the 4runner rails work. Since the bench seat rails and the bucket seat rails are completely different, I opted to drill an extra hole and use the 4runner rails.
Both seats are in, and they're 50 times more comfortable than the stock bench.
It drove out of the garage under its own power! It's nice to have a driving rig again. There's still a lot to do before it's ready for the trail, but at least it drives. The dual cases are awesome. It crawls right along with no issues. I'm going to have to come up with some new boots for the shifters, since they don't fit, but those are minor details.
I'm not thrilled with how low the crossmember sits, but I am thrilled with the crawl ratio. It's a tradeoff I'm willing to make. Then again, the stock crossmember didn't offer any more clearance than this one does.
I'm dropping it off at chocflip's house tonight for him to finish the rear bumper.
To make the 4runner seats fit, you can either swap out the seat rails for those of a tacoma, or you can just drill an extra hole to make the 4runner rails work. Since the bench seat rails and the bucket seat rails are completely different, I opted to drill an extra hole and use the 4runner rails.
Both seats are in, and they're 50 times more comfortable than the stock bench.
It drove out of the garage under its own power! It's nice to have a driving rig again. There's still a lot to do before it's ready for the trail, but at least it drives. The dual cases are awesome. It crawls right along with no issues. I'm going to have to come up with some new boots for the shifters, since they don't fit, but those are minor details.
I'm not thrilled with how low the crossmember sits, but I am thrilled with the crawl ratio. It's a tradeoff I'm willing to make. Then again, the stock crossmember didn't offer any more clearance than this one does.
I'm dropping it off at chocflip's house tonight for him to finish the rear bumper.
airmanwilliams
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Provo, Utah
no sliders? are you going to change the front bumper at all?
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Sliders have not been installed yet. The front bumper is ugly, but very functional and it has a killer approach angle. Ill design a front bumper someday, but for now the goal is to get it ready for the Rubicon. Function before fashion is the name of the game right now.
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sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
To-do before the Rubicon:
Immediate stuff:
- install bucket seats (from tacoma, 4runner, or Corbeau)
- install center console
- install duals w/skidplate/crossmember
- get driveshafts modified (shorten rear, lengthen front, build a spare rear)
- extend speedometer
- remove old sliders
- install new sliders
- install diff drop kit
- flush front diff
- install budbuilt skids
Not as crucial, but still nice to have:
- install new CB/Antenna
- install new CD deck
- purchase a spare lower ball joint and the tools needed to swap it
- install rock lights
- get the a/c charged
- put a seat in the back
- get a soft top
Immediate stuff:
- install center console
- get driveshafts modified (shorten rear, lengthen front, build a spare rear)
- extend speedometer
- remove old sliders
- install new sliders
- install diff drop kit
- flush front diff
- install budbuilt skids
Not as crucial, but still nice to have:
- install new CD deck
- purchase a spare lower ball joint and the tools needed to swap it
- install rock lights
- get the a/c charged
- put a seat in the back
- get a soft top
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Nice work Steve! The seats look comfortable but don't go with your color scheme.
Yeah, getting out on the trail was more important than waiting months and months to find a set of matching seats.
Finding these seats was hard enough.
Yeah, getting out on the trail was more important than waiting months and months to find a set of matching seats.
Finding these seats was hard enough.
I understand completely. I was just giving you a hard time. I love your Tacoma.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I know. You're the only one i know who can rattle off factory interior colors.
And you know what about improvement these will be over that tired old bench.
And I love your truck.
And you know what about improvement these will be over that tired old bench.
And I love your truck.
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LT.
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Los Alamos, New Mexico
I'm not thrilled with how low the crossmember sits, but I am thrilled with the crawl ratio. It's a tradeoff I'm willing to make. Then again, the stock crossmember didn't offer any more clearance than this one does.
I'm dropping it off at chocflip's house tonight for him to finish the rear bumper.
Hey Sixstringsteve, is it just the picture angle or is the rear of the truck sitting a touch lower than the front? It also looks like the cross member is also portraying this as well? Is it just me? If it is a little low in the rear is it just the extra weight of the shell? Just curious is all. Love the build.
LT.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
it sits level, i snapped that picture in a hurry and it looks goofy. I haven't trimmed the rear fenders as much as I've trimmed the fronts, so it looks like the back sits lower, but it doesn't. You can compare the lines of the rocker panels with the curb and see that it actually sits a little higher in the back right now.
When I really load it up with camping gear it sits a tiny bit lower in the back. I bought a set of add-a-leafs for the rear, but I haven't seen the rear sag past level lately, so I haven't felt the need to install them.
The skidplate definitely hangs lower in the rear, which is by design. The t-case is relateively tucked up there except for the rearmost part of it. That hangs down quite a bit.
When I really load it up with camping gear it sits a tiny bit lower in the back. I bought a set of add-a-leafs for the rear, but I haven't seen the rear sag past level lately, so I haven't felt the need to install them.
The skidplate definitely hangs lower in the rear, which is by design. The t-case is relateively tucked up there except for the rearmost part of it. That hangs down quite a bit.
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4biker
Active Member
Hey Steve, I remembered we had a conversation a while ago about quick disconnects for sway bars - I underestimated the price on them, but I found who supplies them: http://wabfab.org/component/option,...tpl/page,shop.product_details/product_id,731/ You can choose either end links or quick disconnects for the same price (?). Just FYI in case you hadn't already seen them.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
cool, thanks for the link. How do they work?
You're right, those are expensive. I think for $150 I can undo two nuts each trip. Or maybe I can fab something up. That'd sure be nice to have some quick disconnects though.
You're right, those are expensive. I think for $150 I can undo two nuts each trip. Or maybe I can fab something up. That'd sure be nice to have some quick disconnects though.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
let's do it. I'll have to study his design then find a better way to do it.
4biker
Active Member
Actually a quick search on Google found this:
http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner/swaybar
where he shows you how to make your own
http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner/swaybar
where he shows you how to make your own
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
cool! Thanks Spencer
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
haha, my wife would love it if that was the only project I had. Projects keep us husbands occupied.
4biker
Active Member
Don't know if you're pursuing this, but it looks like the Heim joints and the bushings are on amazon prime for a total of about $23-$35. ($3.68 each cheapo heim joint or $10 each for higher quality + 8 energy suspension grommets/bushings for $15) - then it's just hardware. It sounds like a fun little project to me. Maybe I'll work it into the schedule closer to the trip, so I can get more done on the trailer first.