- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Wow, that's some good progress! I was wondering if this was moving forward just the other day... looks real good. I'm diggin' those FOA coilovers and air-bumps. Very nice pieces!
BIG buggy build - 4 seat - build with pics
- Thread starter spaggyroe
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
Thanks Greg
Admittedly, the FOA's aren't as "bling" as the others, but they appear to be made very well.
- Location
- West Jordan
Thanks Greg
Admittedly, the FOA's aren't as "bling" as the others, but they appear to be made very well.
Bling is way overrated anyways. Looks good!
ChestonScout
opinions are like Jeeps..
- Location
- Clinton, Ut
looking sweet!!!
Congrats on the progress!
Congrats on the progress!
Kiel
Formerly WJ ZUK
I never changed mine. Evco has some fittings that are the same as the gm ones and they were gonna use a flex line across those from rail to rail. Then tap in the return line quoted me like 30 bucks I said do it, came back later and said they couldn't becuase it was fuel:-\. So there is that route just tell them its a water pipe lol. I just left that tube like you did
Here's some pics for Cheston of my return to center setup for the rear steering.
This is a "cam" essentially that I am building that attaches to the top of a knuckle and rotates along with it. It still needs to be cut down somewhat too. It will operate two of these switches (Standard part number NS18 from Checker, or Niehoff NS36721 which is cheaper). When the "cam" is in the center position, neither switch will be tripped. When it's in any other position, one of the two switches will be tripped. This arrangement allows for power to be sent to the correct coil on the rear steer solenoid valve.
I checked the runout of the cam and it is only about .020, which isn't enough to cause any false switch tripping if the switches are adjusted properly.
Obviously I still need to build the switch mounting brackets but that won't happen until the coilover mounts are in.
I've done some "super scientific" testing at home and the switches work fine under water.
FYI, the switches are just detent / ball switches used in mid / late 70's chev trucks (reverse / back up light switches).
This is a "cam" essentially that I am building that attaches to the top of a knuckle and rotates along with it. It still needs to be cut down somewhat too. It will operate two of these switches (Standard part number NS18 from Checker, or Niehoff NS36721 which is cheaper). When the "cam" is in the center position, neither switch will be tripped. When it's in any other position, one of the two switches will be tripped. This arrangement allows for power to be sent to the correct coil on the rear steer solenoid valve.
I checked the runout of the cam and it is only about .020, which isn't enough to cause any false switch tripping if the switches are adjusted properly.
Obviously I still need to build the switch mounting brackets but that won't happen until the coilover mounts are in.
I've done some "super scientific" testing at home and the switches work fine under water.
FYI, the switches are just detent / ball switches used in mid / late 70's chev trucks (reverse / back up light switches).
Attachments
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
interesting
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
So where's the progress...
So where's the progress...
It's there, I just suck at taking pics. :-\
I'll update the thread this week.
Rear 4 link is nearly complete, belly pan is in place, I have some H1 rock rings on their way, front driveline is in, and I built a support tray for the fuel cell (went a little crazy with the dimple dies).
I'll be ordering my rear coilovers soon (probably today), which means this thing will FINALLY be a roller in the near future.
ChestonScout
opinions are like Jeeps..
- Location
- Clinton, Ut
That is a VERY cool idea!
How are you planning on mounting the switches?
How are you planning on mounting the switches?
I'll just build a couple small brackets off of my coilover mounts. I may have to allow for some side to side adjustment of the switches so that the exact center position can be fine tuned.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
It's there, I just suck at taking pics. :-\
I'll update the thread this week.
Rear 4 link is nearly complete, belly pan is in place, I have some H1 rock rings on their way, front driveline is in, and I built a support tray for the fuel cell (went a little crazy with the dimple dies).
I'll be ordering my rear coilovers soon (probably today), which means this thing will FINALLY be a roller in the near future.
I can't wait to see that monster rolling! Have you thought about entering TTC once it's done?
I can't wait to see that monster rolling! Have you thought about entering TTC once it's done?
yes I have.
After hearing about how much fun Cheston and Byron had down there, I've wanted to go myself.
I sometimes discourage myself though because I only have 44's and a 6.0, which is small by TTC standards.
Who knows, it could all be just a pipe dream.
b dubs
Registered User
- Location
- salt lake city
if you didn't want to send your ecm out to have vats and emmisions burned out, Just 4 fun motorsports in lindon could also do it for you.
Thanks for the heads up.
Do you happen to know if they can strip the factory harness down too?
b dubs
Registered User
- Location
- salt lake city
im sure they can. give them a call 801-796-6808 ask for charlie.
Still making progress.
- F & R 4-links are now complete.
- Minor tube work left (mostly just gusseting)
- coilovers mounted. Need to order 4 more coils once final-ish weight is determined.
- Fuel Cell modified (Thanks StrippinGears)
- F & R driveshafts complete and installed.
- ECM / Wiring are back from Jims Performance. I cranked the engine over for the first time last night.
Need to soft out fuel plumbing and it should be running.
I have some pics. I'll get them uploaded this weekend.