Constrictor Sign down??

[Mug]

Hmmmmmm. Powder coat you say? What about sand blast?

Add some rust and flaking paint of course. They have actually weathered about 10 times better than I figured they would. The letters are actually a negative cut-out with a white background. Not sure how we would powder-coat that. Mabey do the whole thing and then hand paint the white? I was just going to spend some more time wire-wheeling the paint. Bomb it white to get the letters coated and then roll brown over the top again. Clean and easy, should last another 5-6 years? But sandblasting and a good primer would be ideal to start.

Is the sign seperate from the post now? Could they be seperated? If so, I could put the sign in the blast cabinet. Also, we can do a two tone by doing a partial cure with a white layer, mask it off, and top coat it in brown with a full cure. Most PC shops won't do this type of work because of the extra steps. But, we will.

Happy to do it. Let me know.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...18" is a big dang hole. A 12" hole, 18" deep will use half that...probably get away with 2 bags and toss in some rocks...

Therein lies the issue. The current post already has a 12" diameter cement boat anchor attached. I can try and knock more of it off but its pretty solid. We used Russ's (I miss the old chum) auger for the last projects out there, we need to score another. It by no means dug the holes easily, but it dug the holes with help of rock bars, a pic and shovels.

 

[Greg]

Buck and rail, cheap and easy to fix when it gets torn up. Also it does not appear to be a winch anchor to ignorant people.

I have a 15gal drum and a plastic pan that is made for mixing concrete, they have served well on such activities.

Buck and rail could work, we could even include a sign mounted on the fence post about staying on the trail and not using bypasses.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Is the sign seperate from the post now? Could they be seperated? If so, I could put the sign in the blast cabinet. Also, we can do a two tone by doing a partial cure with a white layer, mask it off, and top coat it in brown with a full cure. Most PC shops won't do this type of work because of the extra steps. But, we will.

Happy to do it. Let me know.

Let me take a peak at it. I can't remember how it is welded? Coreshot? Hickey? Who ended up welding the old one?

 

[Greg]

Therein lies the issue. The current post already has a 12" diameter cement boat anchor attached. I can try and knock more of it off but its pretty solid. We used Russ's (I miss the old chum) auger for the last projects out there, we need to score another. It by no means dug the holes easily, but it dug the holes with help of rock bars, a pic and shovels.

How about torching off the bottom part of the sign with the concrete and welding on a new chunk of pipe? If we can match the size, that is.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Buck and rail could work, we could even include a sign mounted on the fence post about staying on the trail and not using bypasses.

If we are not trying to build it as part of the sign, then I think buck/rail would work. We considered that last time we discussed the bypass and I think we all concluded it would get destroyed in short order. But with as many RME'ers as we have out in the area we can keep tabs on it?

 

[Mug]

How about torching off the bottom part of the sign with the concrete and welding on a new chunk of pipe? If we can match the size, that is.

Yes. Either way would work.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

How about torching off the bottom part of the sign with the concrete and welding on a new chunk of pipe? If we can match the size, that is.

Doable I'm sure. I've got a torch and could do that.

Who provided the last pipe? Olly? Anymore where it came from?

 

[Mug]

Got a torch we could use too.

 

[Mug]

Sorry for the dito...

 

[Greg]

If we are not trying to build it as part of the sign, then I think buck/rail would work. We considered that last time we discussed the bypass and I think we all concluded it would get destroyed in short order. But with as many RME'ers as we have out in the area we can keep tabs on it?

Like Mike said, it's easily fixable if someone decides to mow it down. Long as it doesn't get used for fire wood. I think using some beefy nails it would be pretty hard to tear down by hand and yet still be easy to assemble. Make it long enough and heavy enough it's not easily moved.

Doable I'm sure. I've got a torch and could do that.

Who provided the last pipe? Olly? Anymore where it came from?

I think Coreshot provided the pipe?? I thought it was just scrap laying around.

 

[Bear T]

Kurt, let me know what size pipe you need. We have some layin around at dad's shop.

 

[Meat_]

...I can't remember how it is welded?...

Well

 

[cruiseroutfit]

So who knows an approximate pricing on the buck/rail fencing? I've never been on the buying side, just the laboring side

Where else could this be implemented to prevent further trail propagation and weaving along these trails?

Who can do nice signs? How long would a laminated sign stapled to a wood backing plate last. Thankfully the area doesn't get much target shooters. Would we be dumb to have a nice sign made and do you think laminated paper signs would last a season? We could change them out on an annual Snakes service project for example? Sooner if needed?

 

[Meat_]

I checked last year.... IIRC $9/rail maybe $4/post

WW needs a fence on the bypass.

btw, I made another trip to the claim marker I found above the nest, I have the info and cords (on my friends camera/gps)

 

[Bear T]

I agree that we really need to close the bypass off at WW. I got after a bunch of a$$holes last time I was out there. They got all pissed off bout it.

 

[drtsqrl]

So who knows an approximate pricing on the buck/rail fencing?

We've done quite a bit of buck and rail fencing around Moab. The cheapest way to do it that I have found is to buy some 4" to 5" logs at a saw mill (we got ours from Doug Jones Sawmill in Grand Junction.) I don't remember exactly what we paid for the logs, but it wasn't too bad. Buy a bunch of carraige bolts, nuts and washers to fasten them together, and round up some volunteers, a chainsaw, drill, a some wrenches. If I was up your way, I'd love to give you a hand.

 

[choptopbII]

I agree that we really need to close the bypass off at WW. I got after a bunch of a$$holes last time I was out there. They got all pissed off bout it.

I was out there a few weeks ago and watched a group of a$$holes go up that...

That bypass needs to be closed.


I am willing to help. I can get signs laser cut or whatever you need

 

[Tacoma]

I know the guy that runs Durbano Metal in Ogden, he might be able to chip in some scrap pipe.....

 

[mbryson]

Let me take a peak at it. I can't remember how it is welded? Coreshot? Hickey? Who ended up welding the old one?

That was me. 110 welder. I can't imagine it's burned in SUPER well, but it's as burned in as the 110 Lincoln could do. It's not going anywhere, but it's not like I hit it with a stick welder either.