Glockman's Rubi LJ

Updating the build thread after oh 7 years.

Specs
2006 Rubicon LJ
2003 5.3 LS
4l60E
NP241C with JB conversions SYE and 1310 flange
Novak Cable shifter.
Magnaflow exhaust
Swap details LS swap for the LJ


Teraflex lcg lift
Teraflex short front Upper control arms.
4" Teraflex springs
1" body lift and tummy tuck
Metal cloak track bars front and rear.
Teraflex Speed bumps Front and rear. Custom mounted in the frame on the rear. Details Here
Teraflex dual rate front sway bar.


Falcon TJ shocks
Currie Correctlync steering

37x12.50 R17 BFG KM2's on aluminum modular wheels.
1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers

Factory lockers front and rear
4.88 gears
Chromoly shafts in the rear
RCV's up front
Teraflex HD diff cover on the front.
LCA skids


JCR Aluminum Hi lined fenders.
Currie front bumper with grill hoop
Warn 9.5Ti
Rear crusher corners (unknown brand)
Warn rock sliders.


Rigid 2x2 spots on Hella A pillar mounts
Amazon special LED headlights
LED tail lights -Tractor supply style
Sport cage


When I bought it



Current pic



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[glockman]

Drove this thing out to scout for elk yesterday. Damn it's good looking. I just love cruising up a canyon with the top off listening to the exhaust note.

 

[glockman]

What peak is that?

North end of timp.

 

[glockman]

New shoes. Found a good deal on these 37" Maxxis Razr MT's. They look cool. Hopefully they work well. 118k miles on the jeep now. I'm trying Ballance beads in these also. I've had great results in motos with them. I added 6oz per tire.

 

[Hickey]

New shoes. Found a good deal on these 37" Maxxis Razr MT's. They look cool. Hopefully they work well. 118k miles on the jeep now. I'm trying Ballance beads in these also. I've had great results in motos with them. I added 6oz per tire.

View attachment 156984

We should wheel together one day.

 

[UNSTUCK]

I have the 35” razrs on my LJ. Really just started hitting harder rocky trails and have been impressed. Accidentally aired down to 6psi two weeks ago before I noticed my gauge was reading 6 psi too high. We ran pretty hard with no issues.

 

[glockman]

I have the 35” razrs on my LJ. Really just started hitting harder rocky trails and have been impressed. Accidentally aired down to 6psi two weeks ago before I noticed my gauge was reading 6 psi too high. We ran pretty hard with no issues.

The sidewalls are significantly more beefy than the KM3's that came off.

 

[glockman]

The factory seat rails have developed some slop and have been making noise lately. I found a file on thingiverse and printed some new bushings.

Old worn bushing


New printed bushing with a dab of grease.



It's way tighter now and makes zero noise when my fat ass gets in and wiggles around. We'll see how they hold up.

 

[DAA]

^^^^^ Want. Need.

- DAA

 

[glockman]

^^^^^ Want. Need.

- DAA

If they hold up, I'll print you some.

 

[glockman]

After many years of procrastination, I am finally starting my WJ knuckle swap.
Pulling it down I found both lower ball joints are pretty loose. Not surprising, they are original .

I have a set of Teraflex JK/WJ ball joints on the way along with a Wagoneer pitman arm.

Factory track bar bracket sucks balls.



I have a set of Carl's brackets cut and ready to go. A year or more ago I ordered some Artech inner C gussets. What does the RME brain trust think about inner C gussets? I'm a little worried about the sway bar link attaching to them but I'm not sure why. With a little trimming to the sway bar brackets the gusset would make a clean flat surface to weld to.
Any advice on welding to the cast C's?

 

[I Lean]

Inner C gussets are probably cheap insurance, and when the ball joints are already out, now's the time. 🙂

Welding to inner C's is easy. They weld. Be hot.

Don't forget to bend the swaybar tabs before welding. 🤣

 

[glockman]

Inner C gussets are probably cheap insurance, and when the ball joints are already out, now's the time. 🙂

Welding to inner C's is easy. They weld. Be hot.

Ya, BJ's out is definitely the time to do it.

Don't forget to bend the swaybar tabs before welding. 🤣

I was a little confused when I held them up the first time. Then I went back and looked at your thread.

 

[Hickey]

Inner C gussets are probably cheap insurance, and when the ball joints are already out, now's the time. 🙂

Welding to inner C's is easy. They weld. Be hot.

Don't forget to bend the swaybar tabs before welding. 🤣

Wut he said. Be hot, not greasy.

 

[SoopaHick]

Preheat goes a long way with Cast.

 

[UNSTUCK]

I believe those inner C’s are cast steel, not iron. No need to do anything special. Just make sure your welder can burn it in hot enough.

 

[RockChucker]

I think those Cs are forged. Mine welded just fine back in the day. Turn up the heat and burn it hot. Now is the best time to do those gussets. Worth it.

 

[glockman]

Got the passenger side welded on tonight. No insta welds here but I think they will hold.

 

[Coco]

They look great!

 

[glockman]

They look great!

Thanks Colton.
I burned in the drivers upper and both lower gussets.
Opened the ball joints and found this. Wtf. Now back to waiting. I need the knuckles and steering in before I can build the track bar.

 

[glockman]

Teraflex is shipping me the missing ball joint. While I'm waiting I started looking at other odds and ends on the front axle. Found the UCA bushings are shot too. So I ordered a new bracket for the passenger side with new johnny joints from Arctech. I had the welder plugged in, so may as well weld some more stuff on the axle.