Project: Cheap! But still OK.

[I Lean]

This will be an unusual "build" thread, at least at first....because I have no vehicle to build quite yet. But in the end it doesn't really matter what platform I use, the "base" components will be the same regardless.

As the title says, my goal is to build this as cheap as I possibly can, while still doing things right-ish. At least, nothing I plan on doing will prevent future upgrades to the good stuff. I'll document everything I spend on it here in the first post, INCLUDING labor time. (bad idea, I know) I'll try to economize both sides of the cost equation, which may mean buying parts I COULD build, but paying myself labor hours would make them cost more.

What I have so far:

2008 Super Duty F&R axles. ($600)
5.38 gears and mini install kits for both. ($520)
D60 Lock Right ($270)
37" tires ($350)
17" Ford dually wheels ($free)
Motobilt diff covers F&R ($220)
Pile of random take-off/used parts ($free)
Bilstein shocks ($50)
Paint ($100)
Gear oil ($30)
Brake pads F&R ($52)
Valve stems ($25)
Beadlock bolts ($65)
1996 S10 pickup ($1750)
16" Sway-a-way coilovers ($free)
1/4" steel cut for wheel centers and beadlock rings ($600)
Oil filter adapter ($10)

SOLD: Diff cover (-$40)
Rear axle (-100)
Tires (-100)

Total $4502

Labor hours: 26

 

[I Lean]

Installed 5.38 gears in rear 10.5". They're 10.25 gears since that's what's available, but they go right in, albeit with a little "creative" shimming. I also made a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve, for ease of future yoke/flange changes or whatnot.



I also made the factory limited slip differential, a bit more "limited".



The front got the same treatment...some 'thick' 5.38's (so I could use the factory carrier), and a Lock Right. The locker was an Amazon Warehouse deal, which helps the goal of staying cheap.



The pile of parts. JL front springs, which fit snugly under the Ford rubber spring isolators. Bilstein remote reservoir shocks. Some large heims, some small heims, some tie rod ends....I will use some, all, or none of this stuff.



And that's about where I am so far. I haven't picked up the tires yet, but they are mine. I need to modify the wheels for them still, so no pics of dually wheels. I do have this nifty finned aluminum diff cover for a 10.25/10.5 if anyone wants to buy it. I'm afraid it wouldn't fare well against rocks.

 

[N-Smooth]

I vote your neighbor’s Jeep

Edit: also I’m ridiculously excited for you to have something to rock crawl in!!!!!!

 

[RockChucker]

Ah. The orb of traction. Nice!

 

[I Lean]

Ah. The orb of traction. Nice!

I think I read somewhere that the best traction devices include chunks of rebar in them. 😁

 

[Herzog]

I think I read somewhere that the best traction devices include chunks of rebar in them. 😁

I hammered chunks of bolts into a lockrite one time as a trail fix. So, yes.

 

[Pile of parts]

This will be an unusual "build" thread, at least at first....because I have no vehicle to build quite yet. But in the end it doesn't really matter what platform I use, the "base" components will be the same regardless.

As the title says, my goal is to build this as cheap as I possibly can, while still doing things right-ish. At least, nothing I plan on doing will prevent future upgrades to the good stuff. I'll document everything I spend on it here in the first post, INCLUDING labor time. (bad idea, I know) I'll try to economize both sides of the cost equation, which may mean buying parts I COULD build, but paying myself labor hours would make them cost more.

What I have so far:

2008 Super Duty F&R axles. ($600)
5.38 gears and mini install kits for both. ($520)
D60 Lock Right ($270)
37" tires ($350)
17" Ford dually wheels ($free)
Motobilt diff covers F&R ($220)
Pile of random take-off/used parts ($free)
Bilstein shocks ($50)

Total $2110

Labor hours: 10

 

[UNSTUCK]

Team Magna: we are so gonna win.

 

[Hickey]

Hammered Chunks is a terrific name for a band.

 

[Bart]

LOVE this build already. I'm using similar concepts on my new 3 year buggy build. Looking forward to updates.

 

[Johnny Quest]

this is almost exactly what im doing with my ZJ build. building a solid vehicle on the cheap-ish

 

[I Lean]

this is almost exactly what im doing with my ZJ build. building a solid vehicle on the cheap-ish

Same axles even. I mean....I don't think there's a better cost to strength ratio available than these heavy suckers.

 

[Johnny Quest]

Same axles even. I mean....I don't think there's a better cost to strength ratio available than these heavy suckers.

currently 2nd to none. i picked up an entire truck for $600, pulled the axles, and between parting out the rest of the truck and then crushing it, I made my money back, and came out with cash in my pocket; hard to argue with that. Plus, you can upgrade to the F450 complete 35 spline shafts with 1550 u-joints for like $300 for both sides. Yea, they're on the heavy side, but i'm fine with extra weight if its down low

 

[Hickey]

Same axles even. I mean....I don't think there's a better cost to strength ratio available than these heavy suckers.

As long as you can do most of the work, that's definitely true. I've seen a few people without the required skills spend so much paying for parts and labor that they could have ordered new aftermarket axles.

 

[Johnny Quest]

As long as you can do most of the work, that's definitely true. I've seen a few people without the required skills spend so much paying for parts and labor that they could have ordered new aftermarket axles.

the prep work sucks; im still blowing black snot out of my nose from cutting through that cast

 

[I Lean]

the prep work sucks; im still blowing black snot out of my nose from cutting through that cast

In the interest in saving labor "cost", I'll skip doing that at all.

 

[Bart]

the prep work sucks; im still blowing black snot out of my nose from cutting through that cast

Definitely the worst part of that job. I'm almost to the point where I've forgotten enough of it, that I could do it again.

 

[Gravy]

Installed 5.38 gears in rear 10.5". They're 10.25 gears since that's what's available, but they go right in, albeit with a little "creative" shimming. I also made a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve, for ease of future yoke/flange changes or whatnot.



I also made the factory limited slip differential, a bit more "limited".



The front got the same treatment...some 'thick' 5.38's (so I could use the factory carrier), and a Lock Right. The locker was an Amazon Warehouse deal, which helps the goal of staying cheap.



The pile of parts. JL front springs, which fit snugly under the Ford rubber spring isolators. Bilstein remote reservoir shocks. Some large heims, some small heims, some tie rod ends....I will use some, all, or none of this stuff.



And that's about where I am so far. I haven't picked up the tires yet, but they are mine. I need to modify the wheels for them still, so no pics of dually wheels. I do have this nifty finned aluminum diff cover for a 10.25/10.5 if anyone wants to buy it. I'm afraid it wouldn't fare well against rocks.

I'll trade you for a stock ford 10.5 diff cover

 

[Cody]

Cody approves.

 

[I Lean]

Not too much to update yet, but just to document a couple more purchases:

Paint $100 (12 cans satin black, 10 cans primer)
7 quarts gear oil $30

I got the diff covers painted and installed, and the axles filled with the oil. (85-140 since it was on sale....wow it's thick!) I'll add one more hour of labor for that stuff, but it was spread over several days so it's probably inaccurate.