Jeep Speed Goat TJ, the anti-build thread
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I just don't want to loose the rigidity I gained by adding the scoop!
They're already gone unfortunately, a local friend claimed them for his buddy's project.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Not a very productive day in the shop, but I did spend a little time playing around with the ORI's and ride height. Also removed the rear winch (sorry @MR4WD, it was cool, but it had to go for the diet). The winch will probably end up on my trailer.
I added nitrogen and pressurized the upper valves with 100 PSI (the negative spring pressure), then added slowly added 220 PSI (positive spring pressure) to the lower valves to get it to raise up to ride height. At that point and with those pressures, there's 4.5" of chrome showing, as they say (shaft up-travel available).
The TJ is quite low in the rear at this ride height, but it looks amazing. I bounced on the rear shocks to help them settle, the seals are very tight initially and the shocks don't move easy.
After some playing around, I decided to put ratchet straps on the axle & frame and pull the front down as much as I could. I pulled it down about 2-3 inches, to the bump stops. The front is still slightly higher than the rear, maybe another 1-2"? I took some more measurements and the cage is 6' 2" to the top, the frame at the t-case is 19" from the ground.
Comparing this to my incredibly low, old RME TJ, it's cage was 6' 4" tall and the frame at the t-case was 20" to the ground! I will probably add another inch of height to the rear, for 5.5" up-travel and 8.5" down travel.
Side note.... the lower links are both incredibly flat at this height. Front lowers are at 3* and the rear lowers are now at 2.5*'s. That should really help the way it drives, rides and works.
Things are going to get tight far as up travel and the factory frame up front, the track bar and it's mount are going to get cozy. I will probably have to notch the frame for more room. Considering doing the Motobilt front frame kit sooner, rather than later... we will see.
I added nitrogen and pressurized the upper valves with 100 PSI (the negative spring pressure), then added slowly added 220 PSI (positive spring pressure) to the lower valves to get it to raise up to ride height. At that point and with those pressures, there's 4.5" of chrome showing, as they say (shaft up-travel available).
The TJ is quite low in the rear at this ride height, but it looks amazing. I bounced on the rear shocks to help them settle, the seals are very tight initially and the shocks don't move easy.
After some playing around, I decided to put ratchet straps on the axle & frame and pull the front down as much as I could. I pulled it down about 2-3 inches, to the bump stops. The front is still slightly higher than the rear, maybe another 1-2"? I took some more measurements and the cage is 6' 2" to the top, the frame at the t-case is 19" from the ground.
Comparing this to my incredibly low, old RME TJ, it's cage was 6' 4" tall and the frame at the t-case was 20" to the ground! I will probably add another inch of height to the rear, for 5.5" up-travel and 8.5" down travel.
Side note.... the lower links are both incredibly flat at this height. Front lowers are at 3* and the rear lowers are now at 2.5*'s. That should really help the way it drives, rides and works.
Things are going to get tight far as up travel and the factory frame up front, the track bar and it's mount are going to get cozy. I will probably have to notch the frame for more room. Considering doing the Motobilt front frame kit sooner, rather than later... we will see.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Yeah buddy.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I've had a lot going on over the past month, between the holidays and some funerals it's been hard to find time to work on the TJ. I finally got some time in the shop doing some small stuff. I had to pull the rear calipers off to get the ORI's on, so while they were off, I painted them Red.... #becauseracecar.
Then I drilled some holes in my new fiberglass hood for the latches and added some rubber pads for the hood, at the grill. Chris Durham recommends putting them on this way, so it doesn't damage the hood. It's very secure and the latches are out of the way, almost hidden.
Then I drilled some holes in my new fiberglass hood for the latches and added some rubber pads for the hood, at the grill. Chris Durham recommends putting them on this way, so it doesn't damage the hood. It's very secure and the latches are out of the way, almost hidden.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Got the TJ out of the shop and for a quick drive around the block to see how the rear ORI's work so far.... they do seem to add stability. Can't wait to get the front on and see the overall change!
The engine wasn't super happy though, it seems like the fuel pump isn't pushing enough gas. Time to buy a new pump!
The engine wasn't super happy though, it seems like the fuel pump isn't pushing enough gas. Time to buy a new pump!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
No time like the present to tear it down for the next round of upgrades!
The plan is to swap in my narrowed 65.5" wide '89-91 Ford Dana 60, but first I need to weld on the Artec Skidplate / Double Ended Cyl mount. I'll be putting my 2.75" PSC DE ram on and running the link mounts and shock tabs that are already in place. I'll be swapping the gears & locker from the old axle over to the new one as well.
I need to cut off the limit strap mounts, shock tabs & air bump cans off the frame, then build upper shock mounts for the ORI's.
I want to go thru the links and joints, probably upgrading them with the rod ends I have from the previous project. I mentioned a clunk in the front end earlier and I'd like to take care of that. I will probably need to notch the frame on the pass side for the trackbar at full bump, it's going to be interesting to see how much up travel I can get by with, with the factory frame.
The plan is to swap in my narrowed 65.5" wide '89-91 Ford Dana 60, but first I need to weld on the Artec Skidplate / Double Ended Cyl mount. I'll be putting my 2.75" PSC DE ram on and running the link mounts and shock tabs that are already in place. I'll be swapping the gears & locker from the old axle over to the new one as well.
I need to cut off the limit strap mounts, shock tabs & air bump cans off the frame, then build upper shock mounts for the ORI's.
I want to go thru the links and joints, probably upgrading them with the rod ends I have from the previous project. I mentioned a clunk in the front end earlier and I'd like to take care of that. I will probably need to notch the frame on the pass side for the trackbar at full bump, it's going to be interesting to see how much up travel I can get by with, with the factory frame.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Tell me about it... its getting to the point that it would have been easier to just finish the other project.
The main reason is to better match the 65" wide D70U out back, the axle that's going in has been narrowed a few inches. With the full width D60 up front, it looked funny and the width difference was quite noticable. The narrowed D60 front is 65.5" wide and a better match.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I feel like I've opened a can of worms getting my narrowed D60 under the TJ.... working on the new housing at full bump, there are several concerns. The exhaust on the drivers side wraps around the front of the oil pan and had already been hit by the old setup, at full bump the axle housing would contact one of the accessory mounts for the idler pulley, etc. I also wanted to tackle raising the belly and possibly engine, which would help with the diff contacting the accessory mounts.
The exhaust got cut out, I had plans to change it up anyway, add shorty headers, 3" exhaust... so now seemed like a good time to take it all apart.
I dropped the skidplates, unbolted the t-case crossmember and went about raising the Atlas.... and didn't get far. The t-case was hitting the floor on the drivers side and one of the tubes running across the chassis, under the seats. I did some cutting, need to brace the tube that was removed and got the t-case up about 1.5" higher than it was. That's all I can get at this point. I have a totally flat belly skid plate from the previous build, I think I can make it work, if I run a 1" drop between it and the frame. Not ideal, but it's better than the 4.5" drop skid it had.
I decided to unbolt the engine mounts and work on raising the engine next.... the bellhousing & transmission had plenty of room, so I was able to raise it 1.5" as well, but the drivers side exhaust manifold is hitting the orbital. I'll have to figure out how to raise the engine mounts with the engine still in the engine bay. At least I was able to fit one of the ORI's in place and get an idea how it'll sit!
This is pretty much full bump, at this point... a *little* more would be nice, if possible.
The exhaust got cut out, I had plans to change it up anyway, add shorty headers, 3" exhaust... so now seemed like a good time to take it all apart.
I dropped the skidplates, unbolted the t-case crossmember and went about raising the Atlas.... and didn't get far. The t-case was hitting the floor on the drivers side and one of the tubes running across the chassis, under the seats. I did some cutting, need to brace the tube that was removed and got the t-case up about 1.5" higher than it was. That's all I can get at this point. I have a totally flat belly skid plate from the previous build, I think I can make it work, if I run a 1" drop between it and the frame. Not ideal, but it's better than the 4.5" drop skid it had.
I decided to unbolt the engine mounts and work on raising the engine next.... the bellhousing & transmission had plenty of room, so I was able to raise it 1.5" as well, but the drivers side exhaust manifold is hitting the orbital. I'll have to figure out how to raise the engine mounts with the engine still in the engine bay. At least I was able to fit one of the ORI's in place and get an idea how it'll sit!
This is pretty much full bump, at this point... a *little* more would be nice, if possible.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Soooo.... after my Hobart welder having serious issues right when I needed it, the fix and replacement taking months and then spending 2 weeks out of town for work, I'm back on the Speed Goat and falling behind. It's Spring, the trails are opening up and this poor TJ is still torn apart. I'm at a crossroads and hesitating with my plans... and I want to wheel this thing!
I picked up a MotoBilt TJ Front Frame Half kit (again) a couple months ago, intending to cut the factory frame and make room for more uptravel with the new ORI's.... but with the delays I'm feeling like I'm pressed for time. In order to swap the front frame kit in, I'll have to redo the engine mounts, shock mounts, fender tube work, grill & radiator guard, etc. It's a LOT of work.... and I've been planning to leave the LS3 in place, while I do it all. A ton of work, honestly and won't be simple.
I'm debating just working around the stock frame for now, not having as much uptravel and low stance as I wanted and NOT making it into a huge project at this point. If I could raise the engine another 1", it would really help with up-travel and clearing the engine balancer. I will need to notch the frame for the track bar & bracket, but that's easy enough.
I did also upgrade the knuckles, as discussed in this thread. I found a crack in one of the factory knuckles on the D60 that the TJ came with, decided to upgrade to Solid Axle knuckles and Sky's Offroad Design steering arms, creating a double sheer steering setup for maximum strength. This will also allow me to keep the PSC DE cylinder and tie rods a bit lower, helping clear the frame at full bump.
I picked up a MotoBilt TJ Front Frame Half kit (again) a couple months ago, intending to cut the factory frame and make room for more uptravel with the new ORI's.... but with the delays I'm feeling like I'm pressed for time. In order to swap the front frame kit in, I'll have to redo the engine mounts, shock mounts, fender tube work, grill & radiator guard, etc. It's a LOT of work.... and I've been planning to leave the LS3 in place, while I do it all. A ton of work, honestly and won't be simple.
I'm debating just working around the stock frame for now, not having as much uptravel and low stance as I wanted and NOT making it into a huge project at this point.
If I could raise the engine another 1", it would really help with up-travel and clearing the engine balancer. I will need to notch the frame for the track bar & bracket, but that's easy enough.
I did also upgrade the knuckles, as discussed in this thread. I found a crack in one of the factory knuckles on the D60 that the TJ came with, decided to upgrade to Solid Axle knuckles and Sky's Offroad Design steering arms, creating a double sheer steering setup for maximum strength. This will also allow me to keep the PSC DE cylinder and tie rods a bit lower, helping clear the frame at full bump.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
At the end of the day, it's a compromise... but I can work on the Frame Half next Winter and just get it back on the trail ASAP, with enough upgrades to make it that much better.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
This is the way. You’ll go crazy if you miss another 6 weeks of wheeling. More time in the seat will foster more ideas and changes. Just write them down and wait for winter.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
On top of that, I still need to do quite a bit of cutting, grinding and welding just to put it back together... so yeah, more forward, less backwards.
I think @I Lean once said, I have to be careful that I don't Greg myself. 😳😄