Jeep Speed Goat TJ, the anti-build thread

[bryson]

Or just double wall your new fender tube at the joint (match ID of the current inner tube), and sleeve it just as you would normally make a joint like that. Drill some holes, weld some plugs and be done.

 

[Greg]

Do you have a good notcher? I think I remember that you do... chuck that notcher on there and notch through the semi-vertical tube and run your new one out from there.

I used my notchmaster to cut through my lower bars that were bent in from all the rock hits, while it took a while it ended up really nice I was able to just slide new tubing right in.

Edit: Either that or cut it out and set a steel ball in there for a joint.

I do, it's a DeWalt!

I used to have a Harbor Freight notcher and it stayed around for much longer than it should have... but ended up in the trash.

I do need to invest in a proper tube notcher, but for now I don't have one. That's a good idea though to setup the notcher and cut out what I need to tie into the joint.

Or just double wall your new fender tube at the joint (match ID of the current inner tube), and sleeve it just as you would normally make a joint like that. Drill some holes, weld some plugs and be done.

Good thought as well, it would be nice to have that joint supported with a tube on the inside. Thanks for the ideas guys!

 

[Greg]

Since I was fooling with tube and cutting off parts, I decided to get to work on the stinger and turn it into more of a prerunner push bar.

I decided on a pretty short, straight piece of tube. Pretty simple change, but really alters the look of the front tube work. I need to get some round tube caps, weld them on and buzz the new tube in place. I was debating relocating some of the old lights I pulled off, onto the new tube. The Rigid lights would look pretty good up there, IMO.

 

[mbryson]

Looks mucho bettero to me

 

[Bart]

Yup

 

[Herzog]

Love it. It's becoming more "Greg style" by the day.

 

[Greg]

Got to work on the new tube 'fenders', broke out the bender, did some notching, grinding and they're almost ready to weld up after some more tweaking and fitting. I decided to take the easy way out with the joint, it's not done yet, but it's not going to be perfect.

 

[Bart]

Man, you are hard on yourself. It looks awesome, and so much better.

 

[Agility Customs]

Love it! looks way better.

 

[Mouse]

Is the tube outside of the hood so that it will rub before the fiberglass?

 

[Greg]

Man, you are hard on yourself. It looks awesome, and so much better.

Thanks Bart! Need to finish it out and make sure it's all straight.

Is the tube outside of the hood so that it will rub before the fiberglass?

Correct! I've seen plenty of busted up fiberglass body parts, I'm trying to protect it, make it look minimal, tie in the grill hoop and shock hoops, etc.

 

[Greg]

Wrapping up the bumper push bar and the tube fenders, got the final fitting done, welded on the caps and fender tubes in place. Pretty happy with how it came together! I need to tie the tube fenders into the shock hoops, but I'm saving that work for when the ORI's go on... have some ideas to build some beefy mounts.

 

[N-Smooth]

Wrapping up the bumper push bar and the tube fenders, got the final fitting done, welded on the caps and fender tubes in place. Pretty happy with how it came together! I need to tie the tube fenders into the shock hoops, but I'm saving that work for when the ORI's go on... have some ideas to build some beefy mounts.

Looks great, Greg!

 

[YROC FAB.]

Wrapping up the bumper push bar and the tube fenders, got the final fitting done, welded on the caps and fender tubes in place. Pretty happy with how it came together! I need to tie the tube fenders into the shock hoops, but I'm saving that work for when the ORI's go on... have some ideas to build some beefy mounts.

I like it much better now. I bought that tube die when i was 18 years old, it built my single seater and much much more, glad to see it building more.

 

[Greg]

I like it much better now. I bought that tube die when i was 18 years old, it built my single seater and much much more, glad to see it building more.

I agree, the tight fiberglass hood just looks cleaner. The tube work seems to match the lines quite well.

The die has been handy, it has plenty more bends in its future!

 

[kmboren]

Love it Greg.

 

[Greg]

I'm so excited about this next addition... I think it pays tribute to the LS3 under the hood and will give the TJ and its fiberglass hood a more aggressive look. Plus, the fiberglass hood is pretty flimsy when you lift it, so I'm hoping the scoop will add rigidity to the hood structure. I'm probably going to add some aluminum plate to the hood scoop studs underneath (it bolts on) and the hood hinges. The scoop won't be functional, don't want to remove any more structure. Got it from - https://racescoops.com/

Working on getting it all painted next, not going to roll around with a gel coat grey colored hood.... have some fun plans to make it stand out from the crowd as well.

 

[Greg]

Nothing like drilling holes in your new, fiberglass hood! Got the scoop mounted, moved it towards the front of the raised portion, for an even more aggressive look.

The scoop fits the hood quite well, no real gap around the edges, which is great since it wasn't built for this hood! I used large fender washers underneath and with just that, it really did stiffen up the hood. Still going to add some additional aluminum support. I feel like the scoop height is perfect, not too tall.

 

[Greg]

I took a couple days off work and spent time on the TJ in the shop... with the priority being get rid of the rear coilovers, Currie Antirock, bumpstops & limiting straps.

Now the fuel cell is full and right close to where I'd be cutting, so I took my time to cover it with a tarp to redirect fumes, then a blanket over the seats and cell and finally a fiberglass blanket to keep sparks from burning thru. Also had a 20# fire extinguisher close by, just in case. 🔥😬

It took quite a bit of cutting and cleaning things up to get it ready. Once all the offending parts were removed, I had to build new wider and MUCH beefier shock mounts. The ORI's act as both the bump and limit, so the mounts need to be very strong. I used huge 3/8" tabs, additional gussets and added extra support.

The upper shock mounts were previously about 75* off the side of the tube and the CO's were 16's, so I rotated the new tabs directly under the tube since they're 14's and added a verticle 1.75" tube tie-in directly above the shock tabs, to the roll cage. I also built a gusset outside of the upper shock mounts and added a small piece of 1.25" tube that ties into the shock hoop and outer tube. The lower shock mounts got a little gusset, tieing them together.

After it was all welded, I bolted the ORI's in place, put the tires on (temporarily, need to go thru the brakes) and checked it out! The goal is to get the TJ 2-3" lower than it was, obviously sitting at full bump at this point, but it looks killer! I can see onto the roof, which means it's about 6' tall. Pretty sure it was 6' 6" at the top of the roof before.... wish I had measured it first!

The front is still sitting high... nice Carolina Squat, eh? 🙄

I'll probably run it with 4-5" of up-travel, which means 9-10" of down travel. We'll see what the final height looks like after the front is done and I charge the ORI's.

 

[Hickey]

Love it!