Steve's '94 Toyota x-cab mild build

I know, I hadn't even finished the sidekick. In fact, it wasn't going to be ready by HITR, I was still waiting on a crucial part. It's funny, I didn't think I could get my sidekick ready by HITR, and here I am, a week before HITR, trying to finish a different build in time.

How did you determine that a 4-4.5" shackle was the shortest you could run? Is it bottoming out on your frame?

Even with major frame work, I'm still can only go so low without hitting the oil pan.
 
yeah its lower but hey whats wrong with my tierod ? i modified my pan to clear it and i tuned my bump stops so it never hits but yes i need a 3.0L 2wd pan to make it better then ill notch my frame for more up travel
 
I didn't realize you had fixed it with a proper tie rod. I thought you were still rockin this:

sparticus%20tie%20rod.jpg
 
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^ Dear God Almighty... You didn't. Tell me that you didn't Sharticus. :scary:

Perhaps instead of instructing on 'driving tips', you could go over what not to do to your rig that could potentially kill multiple people. ;)
 
I think that was a temporary solution until he clearanced his oil pan. When I went back and read the thread, I realized he has since replaced it with a straight tie rod.
 
LOL, he just ran that for a min to get it home from my shop after the front axle swap, then parked it until he got a tie rod that was SAFE, after he got the new rod I modified his oil pan to clear it

and for the record... putting that on was his idea not mine
 
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OrvisKrawler said:
LOL, he just ran that for a min to get it home from my shop after the front axle swap, then parked it until he got a tie rod that was SAFE, after he got the new rod I modified his oil pan to clear it
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haha yeah that was just to get me home and it didnt move till i got the new tierod and sean modified the oil pan he did a very good job too:)

Go back through my build i have some pics of the current set up
 
no burn intended, I just wanted to to be clear that I didn't want to be so low that I had to do that to my tie rod. I don't really have to worry about that though since I have a 22RE.
 
I now know a trick to spotting the attention to detail someone did when doing a sas. If they're OCD like me, then they'll grind the inner frame rails flush, just to do a clean job. If they're sane, they'll probably trim the brackets down, but not grind them flush.

I spent the evening grinding off the inside of the frame rails, filling the spots where I nicked the frame with the plasma, cutting off part of the motor mounts, and cutting off the steering brackets.

I welded up the motor mount cover plates. They actually fit really well. Definitely worth the $5 for the pair, over fabbing up your own.

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Then I smoothed everything out with the flap disc.

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Then self-etching primer and paint.

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tomorrow I plan on:

- mounting the shackles
- determining desired shackle length
- putting the RUF pack together (possibly drilling for slip pads between the leaves)
- remove front bumper

then, after that, I need to:
- hang front hanger
- install 4.7s in top-shift case
- convert fwd shift case to a crawlbox
- finish building the front axle
- brake lines
- install dual cases
- work out rear shackle angle
 
Yeah, aresol. It's just the cheap duplicolor stuff from checkers. I'm too ignorant to use anything else. I don't even know what else is out there.

Boy, ill tell ya one thing, I don't think I'll ever suffer from an iron deficiency for tge rest of mt life. I think I've gained 2 punds in just steel dust the past week.
 
sixstringsteve said:
Yeah, aresol. It's just the cheap duplicolor stuff from checkers. I'm too ignorant to use anything else. I don't even know what else is out there...
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I need to do some looking around, I need to clean up and paint the frame and axles under my Tacoma... wanting to find a good primer/paint in aerosol form that is a step up from the normal hardware store stuff.

Keep up the good work!
 
I don't have enough experience out there to know if there are any decent alternatives out there, but I have been very happy with this stuff. I haven't had it chip off yet (although it does scrape off when it comes in contact with rocks, imagine that). I use it for frames, sliders, axles housings, leaves, anything metal that I want the paint to stay stuck to.

Here's a link:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Self-Etching-Primer-aerosol-DAP1690/dp/B002984MU0

It's a bit thinner than normal paint (watery). So it doesn't lay down quite like normal primer. You have to put it on VERY thin for the first coat, or it'll drip. 3 minutes after the first thin coat, you can lay it on thick, and it'll stick well. It dries very quickly. (5-10 min, even in the cold).

It may not be the best solution out there, but it's a lot better than any other primer I've used. It's got some pretty harsh chems in it, so make sure you don't breathe it or you'll turn out like me :chris:

The only place I've been able to find it locally is at Checker's (O'Riley) auto parts.
 
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i really like the duplicolor self-etching primer. i just wish walmart carried it so i could get twice as much for the same price. the zone and oreilly are too spendy
 
I haven't been able to find it at autozone. It's only about $5.50 a can, and it's definitely worth it to me. But if anyone has found it cheaper somewhere else, let me know.
 
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