sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
thanks. It took an extra 4 days of vacation time, but I got it done.
Steve's '94 Toyota x-cab mild build
- Thread starter sixstringsteve
- Start date
81yotalove
Member
i dont think my truck is worthy of a thread. its nothing special just a typical toyota build. I was thinking a 3-4 day trip to make it worth the drive up there from phx. We'll figure it out.
so whats next for your truck?
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
if my truck is worth of a build thread, yours is. you have some cool ideas with your build.
What's next? Just little things:
- fix the rear leaking diff
- wire elockers
- figure out what I want to do with the springs
- get some longer rear shocks
- build a rear bumper
- add a leg to the sliders
- build a sleeping platform in the back
- wheel it every chance I get
- look for some cragar soft 8's with the right backspacing so I can sell my spacers and wheels.
I'm pretty burnt out from working on the rig, so I'm going to take it easy for the next few months. Fixing the oil leak and wiring the elockers are a priority though.
What's next? Just little things:
- fix the rear leaking diff
- wire elockers
- figure out what I want to do with the springs
- get some longer rear shocks
- build a rear bumper
- add a leg to the sliders
- build a sleeping platform in the back
- wheel it every chance I get
- look for some cragar soft 8's with the right backspacing so I can sell my spacers and wheels.
I'm pretty burnt out from working on the rig, so I'm going to take it easy for the next few months. Fixing the oil leak and wiring the elockers are a priority though.
Just wondering, but why do you think that ARBs, or elockers bind? That's why everyone (atleast that I know) prefer the elockers or ARBs over the others so they can be locked/unlocked for easy turning. When an ARB/elocker is activated, they essentially become spools yes, but are designed to become open diffs for easier turning and more street friendly. So I guess yes your theory is correct, if the lockers are engaged while turning it would seem like your steering is binding.
Ya the Spartan is basically a lockrite with a different name. But like stated, I don't see how an "auto-locker" would give more than a selectable. That is the whole purpose of a selectable locker, is to have a free diff for turning or on the streets.
My honest opinion, I would take an ARB or elocker any day over auto lockers. Just from personal experience, I prefer:
ARB
elocker
Auto locker or some type.
ARB-likes: instantaneous engaging/disengaging of the diffs
Dislikes: if you lose an airline, you lose a locker. (carry a patch kit, and watch where you route your lines, or upgrade right away to rubber hose)
Elocker likes: worked great...when it engaged, even when not wired, you can manually lock them
Dislikes: wiring elockers flat out sucks. Takes forever to engage/disengage them. The elocker motor makes for a tight fit with certain applications, elocker is vulnerable for the elements. The complete diff is pretty heavy.
Auto-lockers likes: if power is delivered, they are engaged, if there is no power, they are mostly disengaged (may still be locked until pressure is released)
Dislikes: I can't stand the clicking they make when coasting, the springs/pins are often the cause of locker failure (time consuming fix for a couple pins and springs) I think I have broke more auto lockers than any other locker.
Sorry for the novel, just a little more info for those wondering, and my personal opinion of them.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Steve why are you taking your spacers off?
For some reason Gordon is doing the same.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
right. Since mine weren't wired, they weren't selectable. They were spools that entire weekend.
Awsome. Let me know when you are ready to need more help. We need to head out wheeling sometime. Me and my brother are going out Sunday.
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sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
gordon was flat towing his rig, and his 6 rear studs sheared off and he lost a wheel
We think it's because of his wheel spacers. Ever since then I've been sketched out.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Yup, I'm pretty burnt out on the build. It'll be a couple weeks (maybe months) before I get to anything substantial. I'd like to stop the rear diff leak asap. Other than that, the truck is plenty drivable as a daily driver.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
THanks Chris! I'll definitely hit you up when I"m at that stage. And yes, we need to go wheeling together. I can't wait for AF canyon to open up.
Panos
12Volt Specialist
- Location
- Salt lake City
Spacers suck, but they have a bad reputation because people don't put them on right or take care of them. You can't simply zip them on with a air gun. You need to properly torque them on to your axles and then most important is to tourqe to whatever the specs are for that certain brand of spacers when bolting up your wheels. If you over tighten the lugs , just like any other bolt . You stretch it and it becaumes week. I have never not once had a problem with a spacer that I have installed. But I did about loose a wheel on the freeway doing 70 in my friends jk that had just had the tires rotated... Scary! Yeah, all the spacers lugs sheared except one .
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
my spacers are torqued to 100 ft lbs with red locktite, just like trail gear recommends. I've never had a problem either, but after seeing his carnage, I think I want to ditch the spacers.
gordon was flat towing his rig, and his 6 rear studs sheared off and he lost a wheel
We think it's because of his wheel spacers. Ever since then I've been sketched out.
I will post some pictures
iamsparticus
Take your Rig to the Edge
- Location
- Ogden,Ut
pics pics pics
Hardcastle
Active Member
- Location
- Mantua, UT
I didn't tourque my spacers. Chances are me loosing my wheel was my fault.
Sparticus- There's not much of a carnage picture. I just just bashed up the rusty/bondo filled metal above my wheel well. I just bought new studs, nuts, 2 caliper bolts, ditched the spacers and it's on the road again. The worst part was I never found my wheel and tire. Unfortunately they probably made their way into the Colorado River.
Spacers are an evil necessity. Like has been said, if you mount them correctly, they work great. I've put 10s of 1000s of road miles on them without problems and ran them for years on comp rigs. I'll be running them again on the rear of the TJ in a couple of months.
81yotalove
Member
you already have ifs hubs to match your rear width so i would just ditch the spacers and fj wheels for a wheel with about 3inch backspacing, just like you are planning. you'll also have less scrub radius because it will decrease wms to king pin. i have 1.5 spacers in front to match rear width, 4inch backspaced wheels and i dont rub my springs with 35's.
at least you have the major stuff completed (drivetrain), now you can just enjoy the truck and do the other little mods as time/motivation and money permits lol.
at least you have the major stuff completed (drivetrain), now you can just enjoy the truck and do the other little mods as time/motivation and money permits lol.