I would be willing to bet the links your running will bend easier than Shanes..... Are you familiar with Shanes front lower links?
The Budget Buggy - Take Two
- Thread starter Coco
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I would be willing to bet the links your running will bend easier than Shanes..... Are you familiar with Shanes front lower links?
#awesome :freak: Yeah I think I will be doing this in the future!
Shane, I hope you dont mind I put this here for future reference
Problem: Tires rub pretty bad on control arms and limit my steering quite a bit.
Solution: I Lean-ification.
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Full steer lock pass/driver
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They still touch just a tad when the tire flexes (from steering hard) but now I have much more range!
Ready to go! First distant trip coming up, I'm pretty damn excited.
I have absolutely no worries about my Carl-Arms. He's the genius behind them, so get with him when you need a nice set. All I did was make a predictive measurement of how much I'd need it bent inward, where the edge of the tire would be and then Carl drew it up and cut it out.
There is also an internal vertical 1/4" plate inside the arms too for more strength.
He's the genius behind them, so get with him when you need a nice set. All I did was make a predictive measurement of how much I'd need it bent inward, where the edge of the tire would be and then Carl drew it up and cut it out. There is also an internal vertical 1/4" plate inside the arms too for more strength.
Machine a spacer.... If you get your ram apart and know what size spacer you need I can whip you one out on the lathe
airmanwilliams
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Provo, Utah
What do we need to do to make it happen!?
Let me know when you guys make it happen also. Or if I could get the file to make myself one for the back of the Sidekick. It would be neat to get some made up with our forum names below them.
I inboarded my mid-arms a ton and my tires still manage to hit so I just turned them so that the tires hitting them while going forward (seems the most common) will tighten them into the jam nuts rather than loosen them and have them come apart. So far no issues but some custom arms would be slick
Here's a lame update.
I got the radiator hoses plumbed, and also got the new steering column built, as well as the brace.
The left side hose was a little difficult as it couldnt be routed in the traditional matter. I put a piece of 1.5" DOM scrap, and bent it, and connected it between the two TG Silicone Hoses that I cut down, and that is the way it turned out. The other side was a simple straight tube. Should work well.
The steering column is something I decided to redo after looking at several other builds, and the ways others had mounted them. I decided to do the classic heim held by the brace. Also with getting the new steering wheel, I needed to redo it anyway. The new column also looks a lot cleaner than the old version did. This will be a stronger version for sure, and I think it looks a lot cleaner as well.
I got the radiator hoses plumbed, and also got the new steering column built, as well as the brace.
The left side hose was a little difficult as it couldnt be routed in the traditional matter. I put a piece of 1.5" DOM scrap, and bent it, and connected it between the two TG Silicone Hoses that I cut down, and that is the way it turned out. The other side was a simple straight tube. Should work well.
The steering column is something I decided to redo after looking at several other builds, and the ways others had mounted them. I decided to do the classic heim held by the brace. Also with getting the new steering wheel, I needed to redo it anyway. The new column also looks a lot cleaner than the old version did. This will be a stronger version for sure, and I think it looks a lot cleaner as well.
- Location
- West Jordan
If you didn't already, you'll probably want to add a small ridge of weld to your radiator tube splice so that the hose doesn't blow off when the system builds pressure - where the hose slips over before you clamp it. Just like the factory formed tubes.
I was debating doing this (and still am) but with the tube I used, it was an EXTREMELY tight fit putting it on. I had to work at it for 15-20 mins to get them connected on there, then I put the entire assembly in, and tightened it down on the radiator, and motor. I am thinking of still doing it, but with how tight it was getting it on there, I wonder if it would be an issue, or on the flip side wonder if I could get the hoses on after.
Though better to be safe than sorry right?!
Just put a few tack weld bumps around it if it's already tight. The extra friction will help a ton.
It's probably not the right solution, but on my Willys buggy I ended up using 2 hose clamps at each connection instead of just one. First run of the rig, the radiator hose blew off, and that was the "trail fix" to get it back together. It never came off again, and it stayed in the two-clamp state until the day I sold it.
That said, on my second one I welded a ridge around the ends of the tubes, and never had any issues with that setup.
That said, on my second one I welded a ridge around the ends of the tubes, and never had any issues with that setup.
Yeah I think I will. Its going to be nearly impossible to get the hose on after, but that will be good haha
It's probably not the right solution, but on my Willys buggy I ended up using 2 hose clamps at each connection instead of just one. First run of the rig, the radiator hose blew off, and that was the "trail fix" to get it back together. It never came off again, and it stayed in the two-clamp state until the day I sold it.
That said, on my second one I welded a ridge around the ends of the tubes, and never had any issues with that setup.
Did you hose regular hose clamps or these super duper awesome fittings that I have on mine? TG includes some really nice good quality T-Bolt clamps. I dont think they would come off even if they wanted too. But it is always better to be safe than sorry.
Got some work done over the weekend. I was hoping to get more done, but time and things get away from you. :-\
I managed to get some brackets built and made for the cutting brakes, so they are mounted. Took a bit longer than I figured it would... Its going to be sticks galore in the 'cab' of this thing! Counting 6 currently, and possibly one more if I dont go with the TG disconnect. Also mounted up the ARB compressor behind the passenger seat. Everything I have, or will have that will be air powered will be in the back of the buggy. So that will keep the air lines nice and short.
I managed to get some brackets built and made for the cutting brakes, so they are mounted. Took a bit longer than I figured it would... Its going to be sticks galore in the 'cab' of this thing! Counting 6 currently, and possibly one more if I dont go with the TG disconnect. Also mounted up the ARB compressor behind the passenger seat. Everything I have, or will have that will be air powered will be in the back of the buggy. So that will keep the air lines nice and short.
I just used regular worm-drive clamps, nothing special.
Ever think back and say to yourself 'man I had some far fetched "goals" with this build?' Well I just did when looking over it... Never realize how long they take!
Well I made the decision to go with an 8" ram, rather than the 6" I was originally planning. Biggest reason is this buggy is long, and I will need all the steering I can get. Next reason is the FJ80 axles can steer farther than the mini truck versions. I dont plan on going the full 8", but I am thinking 7-7.5" with internal stops. I had to cut off the old mounts, and put the new ones on. I also kicked this ram/mount further back, and I think it made everything much better. The ram is now lower than it was previously, and it moved the steering arm back behind the arm a little bit. This did add the issue of what to do with the front low links, but I am planning on doing what Carl and Herzog came up with on Herzogs buggy. Either with the plate style links, or with tube links, and adding some bracing. As of right now, I am leaning towards the latter, mostly because I have the tubing, and I can build them (other than the bends) in house. The plate style ones the issue I am having is I will need to drop some $$$ to get the plate to make them happen. That is why I am leaning towards the tube links, and just bracing them up. If they bend, or dont work out, I will go with the plate style links. But for now due to costs and such, I think I will do tubing.
I also got the rear rotors on (I had been waiting for a while so they wouldnt rust) I also went with some 1-1/4" rear spacers rather than the 2" one I had on there. After measuring, once the rotors, and spacers were on from WMS-WMS the rear would have been almost 2" wider than the front, now it is about an inch narrower than the front, and should still clear the airshocks once it is flexed out. Got the calipers and all on there, as well as the brakelines that come in the kit on as well. Just got to finish the lines now.
Never realize how long they take!Well I made the decision to go with an 8" ram, rather than the 6" I was originally planning. Biggest reason is this buggy is long, and I will need all the steering I can get. Next reason is the FJ80 axles can steer farther than the mini truck versions. I dont plan on going the full 8", but I am thinking 7-7.5" with internal stops. I had to cut off the old mounts, and put the new ones on. I also kicked this ram/mount further back, and I think it made everything much better. The ram is now lower than it was previously, and it moved the steering arm back behind the arm a little bit. This did add the issue of what to do with the front low links, but I am planning on doing what Carl and Herzog came up with on Herzogs buggy. Either with the plate style links, or with tube links, and adding some bracing. As of right now, I am leaning towards the latter, mostly because I have the tubing, and I can build them (other than the bends) in house. The plate style ones the issue I am having is I will need to drop some $$$ to get the plate to make them happen. That is why I am leaning towards the tube links, and just bracing them up. If they bend, or dont work out, I will go with the plate style links. But for now due to costs and such, I think I will do tubing.
I also got the rear rotors on (I had been waiting for a while so they wouldnt rust) I also went with some 1-1/4" rear spacers rather than the 2" one I had on there. After measuring, once the rotors, and spacers were on from WMS-WMS the rear would have been almost 2" wider than the front, now it is about an inch narrower than the front, and should still clear the airshocks once it is flexed out. Got the calipers and all on there, as well as the brakelines that come in the kit on as well. Just got to finish the lines now.
