Volkswagen TDI talk

[OCNORB]

If you're considering selling your TDI, let me know the basics... year, miles and price. I have a co-worker that's been talking about one ever since riding in mine, but I don't know how serious he REALLY is.

It is a 2003 ALH 5-speed base model (no heated seats). It has 190K miles on it. It has new Michelin Premiere A/S tires on some nice looking MB rims. Runs really good. Oil changes have all been Mobil1 since the 30K mile break in was complete. ARP head studs (cheap insurance) and the common leaking o-ring at the water pump inlet tube has been done. We are the original owners. Interior is cloth and OK for its age. Ink cartridge leaked on one of the back seats a few years ago and left a stain.

The bad. The right side mirror and front fender had to be repainted/replaced when a guy side swiped my wife in traffic. The repair was minor an cosmetic, the car was driven home. A can of "Dust OFF" exploded in the car and put a dent in the roof a few years ago. I have replaced the front brakes and wheel bearings once. The keyfob remote doesn't work- seems to be the door lock switches. Needs the timing belt (I have the new kit complete with bearings, rollers, water pump and bolts.) soon.

I'm not 100% on how I should price the car, but they seem to run $3400-4900 on KSL. If someone wanted it as-is we would sell it for $3000.

Cool! I had seriously lost all hope in GM cars until I rode in my bosses Volt. It is a really NICE car. Keep us posted I'd love to hear your impressions of it.

Yes, it is a surprisingly tight car for GM. Loving the torque from the 3-phase AC motor in SPORT mode. Loving that I haven't needed to buy fuel since Labor Day weekend. It also really helps that my employer allows me to charge at work. Paradigm shift is overused and cliche, but really is the only phrase that captures the Volt well.

On-Star collects data from the car and then allows Volt Stats to display that data (With no user input to muddy the waters). Scroll down and click on the "Achievement Status" tab.
Here is my car's page: http://www.voltstats.net/Stats/Details/6726

That is all I will post in this thread about it, if you have questions PM me or we can start another thread.


Just wanted to add the disclaimer that all fuel saved by this car is more than made up for when we take the LandCruiser or Willys out. It's nice to offset their operating cost with a car that costs three to four cents per mile to run.

 

[Rot Box]

I seem to have reached an impasse. I keep having this P3130 code pop up: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19586/P3130/012592 EGR System: Regulation Range Exceeded

It was once every 700-1000 miles or so. Now it's almost daily on my 45mile commute. The CEL/MIL comes on and it will also shut itself off. I replaced the EGR valve with a new one (OEM Wahler brand). I've replaced all the vacuum hoses with the OEM type. I removed N18 valve and bench tested it and it works great.

Any ideas? I posted on the TDI boards but without VAG-Com it's anyones guess. I need VAG-com and a new computer because my Macbook won't fit the mini disks. That's big money, but I also hate the thought of taking this car to the dealer. What would you do?

 

[Unimog]

If you don't want to DIY, I'd take it to Streamline Industries on 500 East, 2100 South and talk to Elf. Not a dealer, but really knows TDIs.

 

[OCNORB]

It's been a while, but when ours had this issue i **vaguely** recall it actually being a problem with the MAF sensor. The flow readings on the EGR have to be a certain percentage or rate of the MAF or it throws the EGR off.

Maybe try some TDI forum searches with both. I can't remember what year your car is??

 

[Rot Box]

If you don't want to DIY, I'd take it to Streamline Industries on 500 East, 2100 South and talk to Elf. Not a dealer, but really knows TDIs.

Sounds good I will keep this place in mind. Thanks

It's been a while, but when ours had this issue i **vaguely** recall it actually being a problem with the MAF sensor. The flow readings on the EGR have to be a certain percentage or rate of the MAF or it throws the EGR off.

Maybe try some TDI forum searches with both. I can't remember what year your car is??

Hmm you might be on to something. Awhile back I had a code for the MAF. The car would hesitate slightly during light acceleration once in awhile... I don't remember the exact number but it was a 'no feedback from MAF' due to open or shorted connection. I unplugged the MAF (new upgraded Bosch unit) and cleaned the connections and that particular code never came back. That said it still hesitates sometimes--a very light hardly noticeable hesitation---under light acceleration and the EGR code comes on shortly after.

All in my head maybe I will start searching both and see where I end up. My car is a 2000 ALH. Thanks again I appreciate the help!

 

[Tonkaman]

If you don't want to DIY, I'd take it to Streamline Industries on 500 East, 2100 South and talk to Elf. Not a dealer, but really knows TDIs.

I highly recommend this place. All they do is VW, Audi, and Porsche so they know them inside out. I used to frequent there when I had my S4

 

[Rot Box]

It's been a while, but when ours had this issue i **vaguely** recall it actually being a problem with the MAF sensor.

I pulled the MAF plug shortly after you posted this and cleaned it. After several hundred miles the code has not come back yet. Thanks!

 

[Rot Box]

Here's a question for you guys. Does your TDI take a lot longer to heat up during the cold months? My car is taking quite a long time to get to 190º in the sub zero temps Cache Valley has had lately. Once it's at 190º it stays there.. From what I've seen bad thermostats have difficulty maintaining a consistent temperature which leads me to believe the t-stat has not failed :-\

I'm considering installing a winter front/grill cover to help things out a little. Thoughts?

 

[OCNORB]

Here's a question for you guys. Does your TDI take a lot longer to heat up during the cold months?

I'm considering installing a winter front/grill cover to help things out a little. Thoughts?

It does take a *little longer. Winter front helps a little, but the best thing I did was install a Frost Heater and put it on a cord timer. http://www.frostheater.com/
Circulates the coolant and even defrosts the windshield if you have to park outside. Nice to have a warmed up car first thing.

Your stat may not be shutting all the way off, thus the longer warm up times.

After 13 years of faithful service our TDI drove off without us today. :-\

 

[Rot Box]

best thing I did was install a Frost Heater and put it on a cord timer.

After 13 years of faithful service our TDI drove off without us today. :-\

Forgot to mention I have a Zero Start coolant heater and it rocks!! Taking a long time to warm up when I don't/can't plug in the heater. The t-stat not shutting all the way would make sense. I wonder how long it has been in there... I should have changed it when I did the timing belt for safe measure but I spaced it.

13 years is a long time. Hopefully the Volt is as faithful as the VW was

 

[Greg]

Here's a question for you guys. Does your TDI take a lot longer to heat up during the cold months? My car is taking quite a long time to get to 190º in the sub zero temps Cache Valley has had lately. Once it's at 190º it stays there.. From what I've seen bad thermostats have difficulty maintaining a consistent temperature which leads me to believe the t-stat has not failed :-\

I'm considering installing a winter front/grill cover to help things out a little. Thoughts?

The TDI will not warm up if its just idling, the engine needs to be worked and warmed up by driving. I actually search this out on TDIClub quite a few years ago because I was worried about the same thing. I think the engine just doesn't generate enough heat when its really cold out and it's sitting there at idle, the turbocharger needs to create some boost in order to get that engine up to temperature. On my current 2006 I deleted the EGR cooler had a dynamic idle installed which acts just like a choke, it idles the car up by a few hundred rpm when its cold and helps it warm up.

I'm pretty sure I changed the thermostat on that car at some point, possibly when I installed the Zero Start coolant heater. Fairly certain that I replace the thermostat in that car at some point towards the end of my ownership.

If there's any possible way plug the car in obviously that would be the best option. I'm sure some kind of grill cover or something over the radiator would help it get up to operating temperature quicker, especially in northern Utah where you live and the temperatures get pretty cold.

 

[Rot Box]

The TDI will not warm up if its just idling, the engine needs to be worked and warmed up by driving. I actually search this out on TDIClub quite a few years ago because I was worried about the same thing.

On my current 2006 I deleted the EGR cooler had a dynamic idle installed which acts just like a choke, it idles the car up by a few hundred rpm when its cold and helps it warm up.

I'm pretty sure I changed the thermostat on that car at some point, possibly when I installed the Zero Start coolant heater. Fairly certain that I replace the thermostat in that car at some point towards the end of my ownership.

.

That makes sense. I drive it like a grandpa anyway maybe that factors in a bit too.

That would be an awesome upgrade I think. The other day it was -10 and a high idle would have been really nice.

Sounds good. If I have to drain the coolant again maybe I'll take a peek at it but for now I won't worry too much.

On that note I can't believe how well the car starts in the cold months. I've had a few diesels over the years, this one definitely starts the best.

 

[Greg]

My car didn't come with fog lights, I added them using factory lights and wired then up with an aftermarket switch & harness. They added light, but it wasn't much at all despite using high-quality 9006 bulbs. The light was only right in front of the car, no more than 6' out. The light housings themselves added some additional vision off to the front-sides of the car but they were lacking with the amount of light. After our Canada trip I wanted to add more lighting, without adding another set of lights, so I decided to upgrade the bulbs to LED's from superbrightleds.com.

I spent $100 on these LED bulbs, they claim they run at a Cool White (6700K) color, with 1200 Lumen output and low 1.36 Amp current draw.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-with-flexible-tinned-copper-braid/2214/5001/

Obviously day photos don't show much, not sure if night pics will do the upgrade any justice either. I will say that I was worried that the $100 spent wouldn't be worth it, but after getting them in and taking a test drive, I was very impressed with the LED bulb swap! The fog lights put out way more light without being too much, probably 400% more than I had before with standard bulbs. The added lighting works very well with the headlights, even though they're different colors. The new LED fog lights really fill in the parts where the headlights were lacking and the amount of light around the front & sides of the car is impressive!

I'm considering swapping my low beam headlight bulbs to a set of these LED's, they're that good!

 

[Rot Box]

Geez watch out for the dipstick tube I barely bumped into mine and it snapped like a twig. Figured it was just old so I bought a new one. Tried to install new one and with very little effort it snapped too. I can't believe how brittle the plastic is and when it breaks little shards go everywhere. If you're lucky they won't go down the hole into the engine.

Here's how I fixed mine. If yours gives you trouble you could try this:

-Remove all remaining pieces from engine.

-Cut the bell end off so that the dipstick tube will sit flush with the steel tube on the engine. You'll be able to see where you need to cut in order to keep the proper length.

-Couple the modified dipstick tube to the steel engine tube using a piece of rubber hose roughly 5" long. I used 3/4" but I think 5/8's might work better.

-Secure it with a few hose clamps.

Doesn't look great, but it works much better imo. Now it will bend without breaking off--yay!

 

[Rot Box]

Looking back I only seem to post here when I have a problem. Fwiw I am obsessed with this car and absolutely love owning it. I am rapidly approaching 300,000 miles and aside from driving it 45+ miles daily I plan on driving it to Alaska this summer. I have always been a worrier, and I would not even consider a trip like that in a car I didn't trust

 

[Greg]

Looking back I only seem to post here when I have a problem. Fwiw I am obsessed with this car and absolutely love owning it. I am rapidly approaching 300,000 miles and aside from driving it 45+ miles daily I plan on driving it to Alaska this summer. I have always been a worrier, and I would not even consider a trip like that in a car I didn't trust

I think we know you well enough that if you weren't happy with it, it would have gone down the road long ago.

The VW TDI cars are great vehicles, there are some minor things I'm not super happy with about my current Jetta but overall it's a great car.

 

[Rot Box]

Kind of a crappy picture... but look what showed up today!


Evolution Import 'Atlas' skid plate

http://www.evolutionimport.com/atla...rain-hole-cover-for-new-beetle-golf-jetta-iv/

 

[Greg]

Let me know what you think of the fit & finish! I really should pick one up for my TDI, I'd much rather have one and not need it, than not have one and need it!

 

[Spork]

I could have used one about 2 oil pans ago... :thumbs:

 

[Rot Box]

I installed the skid plate today. It took about an hour or so.

So as far as the install goes.. I always struggle with nut rivets whether it is installing them or having them spin inside the hole while trying to remove the bolt I always seem to fight them :-\ Nut rivets are how this plate (and all the others like it) is attached to the frame. There was a tool provided in the kit that made installing them easier but right off the bat I ruined one. Luckily for me the rest went in ok and they included one extra. The intercooler side is a pain to install both the nut rivet and support bracket. There is no room at all right there and even with a wobbly it wasn't fun.

I bought the Atlas skid plate because it was the only one I found with dimples pressed into the pan to help with rigidity and given the size/thickness I think it is worthwhile to have those. The coverage is great although I wish it would extend out a little bit further to help protect the intercooler.

That said I am happy with the kit and wold recommend it to anyone. Given the amount of crap I've already hit in the road I'm confident this skid will pay off in the long run