General Tech What did you work on Today?

1969honda

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Cache
Decided to jump on the heated garage band wagon and installed a 40k radiant tube in the evenings this past week. It was so nice to walk out to the garage this morning and be the same temperature as my house! 😎

Don't pay attention to the mess, had to remove some shelves to make burner clearances and it needs a good cleaning as well.

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rholbrook

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville, Ut
I have a perfect location foe radiant heat in my garage but was thinking some sort of forced air model would work best but I have no idea. I already have a gas line, electrical and a thermostat wire run. I would have to install an exhaust vent through the roof but that’s no big deal. Do you mind me asking where you got your radiant heater and how much it was? Thanks @1969honda
 

1969honda

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Cache
I really like the radiant personally, I've worked in a few different shops with radiant and forced air setups. The radiant heaters are more efficient and since they heat the objects in the heated space when you open an overhead door for awhile and then close it, it gets back up to temp much faster.

For example: A 32 ton M109A6 howitzer takes a full 4 day weekend to thaw out in a small forced air shop, roughly 35 x 40, from being in the cold out side. We would pull one in early Thursday morning and next Monday it still felt 5-10 degrees cooler in the shop than the rest of the building. After swapping to two radiant tube heaters from the 4 forced air heaters I could pull one in at 8 am and be totally thawed out, almost warm to the touch and back up to 65° inside by quiting time at 4 pm the same day.

I had a buddy order it from here in Draper:


It's their UA series 20' 40k BTU. I'm close to $2k with the wall thimble to horizontally vent it and a Nest thermostat e (almost free after rebates with rocky mountain and dominion)..
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I really like the radiant personally, I've worked in a few different shops with radiant and forced air setups. The radiant heaters are more efficient and since they heat the objects in the heated space when you open an overhead door for awhile and then close it, it gets back up to temp much faster.

For example: A 32 ton M109A6 howitzer takes a full 4 day weekend to thaw out in a small forced air shop, roughly 35 x 40, from being in the cold out side. We would pull one in early Thursday morning and next Monday it still felt 5-10 degrees cooler in the shop than the rest of the building. After swapping to two radiant tube heaters from the 4 forced air heaters I could pull one in at 8 am and be totally thawed out, almost warm to the touch and back up to 65° inside by quiting time at 4 pm the same day.

I had a buddy order it from here in Draper:


It's their UA series 20' 40k BTU. I'm close to $2k with the wall thimble to horizontally vent it and a Nest thermostat e (almost free after rebates with rocky mountain and dominion)..
That's an interesting metric for comparing heating rates, that most people probably can't relate to. But I'd like to be able to. :D
 

1969honda

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Cache
That's an interesting metric for comparing heating rates, that most people probably can't relate to. But I'd like to be able to. :D

Yeah, just think of a giant block of aluminum and steel being used as an ice cube 🥶
 

xjtony

Well-Known Member
Location
Grantsville, Ut
Worked my buddy's jeep some. We are admittedly doing thing a bit butch, but we are basically turning a XJ with a cage into a fully connected chassis. This is in between the rear C/O mounts. Before the cage was just screwed into the sheet metal crossmember under the floor. The frame had drooped 3/4 of an inch. Now it's all back where it needs to be and fully welded to the frame and cage.
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Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Worked my buddy's jeep some. We are admittedly doing thing a bit butch, but we are basically turning a XJ with a cage into a fully connected chassis. This is in between the rear C/O mounts. Before the cage was just screwed into the sheet metal crossmember under the floor. The frame had drooped 3/4 of an inch. Now it's all back where it needs to be and fully welded to the frame and cage.
View attachment 133948
"An XJ can only achieve greatness after its been cut up." -Joseph Smith

My favorite XJ is Shane's buggy.
 

MikeGyver

UtahWeld.com
Location
Arem
I'm throwing together a squat / bench press rack completely out of scrap metal I have laying around because Fauci made me fat.
I found a 1/4" thick flatbar burried on the side of the house. It's just barely long enough to make hooks that will accommodate chest level when benching, to my 6'5" height when squatting. The bars will lag bolt into an overhead storage self in the garage and wedge anchor into the concrete floor.

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anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
Pre-season race prep is underway. Took everything apart to replace or repack bearings2AD7B9A3-E49D-44D7-B8C4-4C61BAF10442.jpeg
Prior to taking everything apart I knew I had a chain adjuster bolt that was seized. I got it out without ruining the threads but they were definitely going to need to be chased. I used it as an excuse to go and buy the HF tap and die set @Gravy mentioned in another thread. While not the set you would probably tap a bunch of holes with it is a big step up from their basic kit. I used it to chase the dirt and loctite that has accumulated over a year of racing and it is more than adequate for that.
EA90A840-2568-43AF-8C8C-ECC4D50BCABB.jpeg
 
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Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
I finished setting up the small compressor on top of my cabinets. I used a 3/4" and 1/2" plywood and put holes in the 1/2" b for three feet tho sir in so it won't walk walk around. The shelf had a few rows of toolbox rubber drawer liner to bell cushion and isolate it from the cabinets.....then 2 brackets bolted through tge plywood and screwed into studs.

I used a 3/8" rubber hose from Harbor Freight. They sell 8-15' pieces choir $5.99 so I figure that would be easiest. I ran it through some PV. Just to make clamping it down and "hiding it" a little more.
 

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glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I finished setting up the small compressor on top of my cabinets. I used a 3/4" and 1/2" plywood and put holes in the 1/2" b for three feet tho sir in so it won't walk walk around. The shelf had a few rows of toolbox rubber drawer liner to bell cushion and isolate it from the cabinets.....then 2 brackets bolted through tge plywood and screwed into studs.

I used a 3/8" rubber hose from Harbor Freight. They sell 8-15' pieces choir $5.99 so I figure that would be easiest. I ran it through some PV. Just to make clamping it down and "hiding it" a little more.
That's a slick setup. Nice job.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Last night I had to pull the recirc actuator back out of my Jeep to re-clock the splines. I hate doing a job twice.:mad2:

But I guess it happens. Full pictures can be seen in my Jeep Projects thread, hope the information is helpful to anyone who has to perform a recirculation damper door actuator replacement.

Mike
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT

As much as I hate interior work that 1/4" is definitely my "go-to" ratchet when working on interiors. I also traded my standard 3/8" Snap-on 14.4 cordless ratchet for the extended neck as it is much more useful over a wider range of tasks. I don't use a lot of battery powered tools but there are a few that I've found to be invaluable. I guess I'm still old school and continue to use air tools for a lot of my work.

Mike
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
Pre-season race prep is underway. Took everything apart to replace or repack bearingsView attachment 133974
Prior to taking everything apart I knew I had a chain adjuster bolt that was seized. I got it out without ruining the threads but they were definitely going to need to be chased. I used it as an excuse to go and buy the HF tap and die set @Gravy mentioned in another thread. While not the set you would probably tap a bunch of holes with it is a big step up from their basic kit. I used it to chase the dirt and loctite that has accumulated over a year of racing and it is more than adequate for that.
View attachment 133975
This the season.20210105_162355.jpg
New top end before race season along with all bearing being cleaned and greased.
85 hr this head is clean.
20210105_163013.jpg
 
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