- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
It's supposed to warm up this week. That should help with the trenching. I don't see much rock in there, so you're a lucky man.
General Tech What did you work on Today?
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
Yeah the soil under the 8” of frozen awfulness is lovely and soft. Stupid winter.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I basically exploded my shop with a mess to swap my air compressor. I've had this beefy 110v V-twin for 14 years and I thought it was going out. Turns out the belt was loose and it needed a service... It now runs perfectly fine... Shoulda just put it back in...
But I thought it was toast and didn't want to tear up my bench without a solution (upgrade) first...so I got a used twin cylinder 20 gallon beastie from my neighbor and put a brand new 230v motor on it.
Pulled apart my bench and created a pulley system to lower it in and crammed the giant thing in and wired it up.
In an effort to simplify the hose routing; I took apart a brand new pressure switch--- what a huge mistake. Imagine a jigsaw puzzle that throws it's parts all across the room and cuts you whenever you do it wrong....
What a ridiculous way to spend a Saturday... I literally just finished. 15 mins to midnight...
In other news: if anyone wants to buy the most overpowered 110v air compressor ever made- it's now available.
But I thought it was toast and didn't want to tear up my bench without a solution (upgrade) first...so I got a used twin cylinder 20 gallon beastie from my neighbor and put a brand new 230v motor on it.
Pulled apart my bench and created a pulley system to lower it in and crammed the giant thing in and wired it up.
In an effort to simplify the hose routing; I took apart a brand new pressure switch--- what a huge mistake. Imagine a jigsaw puzzle that throws it's parts all across the room and cuts you whenever you do it wrong....
What a ridiculous way to spend a Saturday... I literally just finished. 15 mins to midnight...
In other news: if anyone wants to buy the most overpowered 110v air compressor ever made- it's now available.
Unimog
Eric
- Location
- Stansbury Park, UT
I need something a little bigger in my garage. What is overpowered about it - just a bigger motor than it needs?
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Huge pump
I was worried with the cold that would make it worse. It just needs to be warmer outside.
On a positive note I got the other garage shelf done. It’s not even full yet and it took so much crap off of my floor it’s majestic!
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Sure. Love doing the job shop work as side jobs.
I really need to get these built in my garage. I plan to do a couple of these just like that, then build some shelves for the east side of the garage.
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
I've been continuing the demo of the bathroom. I got a quite to replace an old drum trap on the upstairs bathtub and reroute the drain a little to make room for moving a heating duct. They wanted WAY too much for a few hours of work. I started on it and after a little over and hour I am ready to rebuild.
However i. The process I found 2 issues...1 MAJOR. The vent stack had nothing supporting it execpt the galvanized drain pipe. Without it, it almost fell all the way to the floor and would've been inside the roof line. Luckily I got it supported temporarily. I will need to figure out how to run a new support strap somehwere in finished living space 🤔 .
The bigger problem is that I found out the carpenter ants had made a major highway through one of the rafters. It happens to be a major one that helps create the "hub" of framing in my quad level house. Now my bathroom remodel has expanded to ripping out a lo more drywall and finshed space to slide in a complete replacement. I am guessing to have some repair it for me, I am looking at $5k+
However i. The process I found 2 issues...1 MAJOR. The vent stack had nothing supporting it execpt the galvanized drain pipe. Without it, it almost fell all the way to the floor and would've been inside the roof line. Luckily I got it supported temporarily. I will need to figure out how to run a new support strap somehwere in finished living space 🤔 .
The bigger problem is that I found out the carpenter ants had made a major highway through one of the rafters. It happens to be a major one that helps create the "hub" of framing in my quad level house. Now my bathroom remodel has expanded to ripping out a lo more drywall and finshed space to slide in a complete replacement. I am guessing to have some repair it for me, I am looking at $5k+
Attachments
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
That's what I hate about remodeling. I always seem to find unanticipated problems as soon as I tear into a project. Good luck!
I picked up a second dirty bike for my little girl this weekend. I figured it would be a new top end but for less than $500 i wasn't to scared. Between this 2003 RM60 and the same year KX85 I picked up at Christmas they are the first two stokes I've owned in almost 30 years.
Tonight I pulled the plug and looked down the cylinder which prompted a jug removal.
I think i found the low compression problem 🤣
I think a new cylinder line and top wms kit will be in order. I'll take the had to work tomorrow and see what I can do about the scaring there.
Tonight I pulled the plug and looked down the cylinder which prompted a jug removal.
I think i found the low compression problem 🤣
I think a new cylinder line and top wms kit will be in order. I'll take the had to work tomorrow and see what I can do about the scaring there.
Attachments
anderson750
I'm working on it Rose
- Location
- Price, Utah
Plan on 8-12 weeks turnaround on cylinder replating.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I've got an account with millennium and it's like 4 months.
My garage organization mission continued today as I built two of these cabinet things from Sam’s club. Pretty nice units that fit a lot of stuff. I just kind of threw some crap in there so I really need to take time to plan a little more and get them settled where I want them… but I’m happy.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
- Location
- West Haven, UT
DAMN! I used to be a dealer for Millenium as well and loved their turnaround time. This was back in the 90's through about 2012 when we got out of powersports. They were usually within about a week depending on when I sent them. Several times I received them back in the same week. My how things have changed..
- Location
- West Haven, UT
While I am waiting for the next job to come into the shop I thought I would take a couple of nights and knock off a couple personal items from my list.
Last year I had aligned the headstock on my lathe. It took the better part of an evening in the shop but I finally got it nearly spot on. A few weeks ago I was machining a shaft for a neighbor's loader/skid and thought the part had a bit of a taper in it after some measurements. I wasn't sure if it was due to the shaft being so hard that it was deflecting from the cutting tool OR did my headstock come out of alignment again. Headstocks as a rule generally don't just come out of adjustment and when they do it is usually due to being crashed or moved. I had done neither but wanted to satisfy my curiosity.
On Monday night I grabbed my test piece and ran a few passes taking a few thousandths off each pass and it was spot on from where it was last year. It was .0001" off in about 6 inches with the smaller end being furthest away from the headstock. Spec's show it should be no more than .0004" in 4" so I am extremely pleased with that.
Since I had already made chips on my nice clean shop floor I thought I would lead in to my next small project that I have wanted to do since last fall.
As most of you know I hate, despise and even loathe noises in my vehicles. I go to great measures to rid them of any such noises. I have made several modifications to my Mac's Black Box over the years in order to deal with the weight that I carry in it. If I would just alleviate some of the weight such as my bottle jack/jack stand and some of my tools I am sure I could lose about a hundred pounds and probably get rid of this particular noise but I am not willing to be without certain things when I am traveling into the back country off-road. After the last couple of mods to the toolbox it has become nearly silent.......Nearly. Last fall after my last modification I thought I had finally achieved perfection but shortly after fabricating and adding the small glides to the rear edge of the box in which the drawer slides up on to for supporting the weight, I noticed a very, very slight "creak" when I either accelerate or stop abruptly. I found out that even though the box's weight is now fully supported by UHMW glides at the front of the drawer and aluminum glides at the rear which takes the transportation weight off of the drawer tracks it makes a very slight noise as the weight transfers fore or aft during driving. The drawer's latch is center and top of the drawer but the bottom moves ever so slightly in/out as the weight transfers. This is what I would like to address.
At first I thought about using a toggle clamp on one of the sides but there simply isn't enough room. My next thought was a couple of aluminum blocks with a pin through them to keep the drawer fixed in position during travel.
I thought I would machine two small aluminum blocks. One which will be located at the center bottom of the drawer and then another one just below it attached to the framework of the box. Then a quick release pin would hold the two together and therefore eliminate the slight movement at the bottom of the drawer. I dug through my aluminum drop drawers and found a piece that I thought would work for both.
After a couple of measurements I came up with a size and design, then transferred it to a piece of cardboard for my CAD drawing.
Transferring my pattern to the aluminum block.
Probably a little overkill but while I am at it I figured I would work to exact measurements for practice. Here I am squaring the block to size.
Dead nuts right on the money @ 2".
Next I located where I wanted the 1/4" quick release pin to be located.
After reaming I test fit the pin. Perfect fitment.
I then used a 3/8" end mill to come in to the radius.
The other half of the block will need to be .7" thick. This will be the part that resides on the lower framework of the box. The block that mounts to the drawer itself will be a full 1" thick. This will allow the quick release pin to protrude below the bottom block just enough for the retention balls on the pin to fully release and therefore lock into the bores.
I left about .010" of thickness in which I will remove once both parts are separated and I can flip them over and remove from the other side.
Laying out the template on the lower block piece.
More to follow:
Last year I had aligned the headstock on my lathe. It took the better part of an evening in the shop but I finally got it nearly spot on. A few weeks ago I was machining a shaft for a neighbor's loader/skid and thought the part had a bit of a taper in it after some measurements. I wasn't sure if it was due to the shaft being so hard that it was deflecting from the cutting tool OR did my headstock come out of alignment again. Headstocks as a rule generally don't just come out of adjustment and when they do it is usually due to being crashed or moved. I had done neither but wanted to satisfy my curiosity.
On Monday night I grabbed my test piece and ran a few passes taking a few thousandths off each pass and it was spot on from where it was last year. It was .0001" off in about 6 inches with the smaller end being furthest away from the headstock. Spec's show it should be no more than .0004" in 4" so I am extremely pleased with that.
Since I had already made chips on my nice clean shop floor I thought I would lead in to my next small project that I have wanted to do since last fall.
As most of you know I hate, despise and even loathe noises in my vehicles. I go to great measures to rid them of any such noises. I have made several modifications to my Mac's Black Box over the years in order to deal with the weight that I carry in it. If I would just alleviate some of the weight such as my bottle jack/jack stand and some of my tools I am sure I could lose about a hundred pounds and probably get rid of this particular noise but I am not willing to be without certain things when I am traveling into the back country off-road. After the last couple of mods to the toolbox it has become nearly silent.......Nearly. Last fall after my last modification I thought I had finally achieved perfection but shortly after fabricating and adding the small glides to the rear edge of the box in which the drawer slides up on to for supporting the weight, I noticed a very, very slight "creak" when I either accelerate or stop abruptly. I found out that even though the box's weight is now fully supported by UHMW glides at the front of the drawer and aluminum glides at the rear which takes the transportation weight off of the drawer tracks it makes a very slight noise as the weight transfers fore or aft during driving. The drawer's latch is center and top of the drawer but the bottom moves ever so slightly in/out as the weight transfers. This is what I would like to address.
At first I thought about using a toggle clamp on one of the sides but there simply isn't enough room. My next thought was a couple of aluminum blocks with a pin through them to keep the drawer fixed in position during travel.
I thought I would machine two small aluminum blocks. One which will be located at the center bottom of the drawer and then another one just below it attached to the framework of the box. Then a quick release pin would hold the two together and therefore eliminate the slight movement at the bottom of the drawer. I dug through my aluminum drop drawers and found a piece that I thought would work for both.
After a couple of measurements I came up with a size and design, then transferred it to a piece of cardboard for my CAD drawing.
Transferring my pattern to the aluminum block.
Probably a little overkill but while I am at it I figured I would work to exact measurements for practice. Here I am squaring the block to size.
Dead nuts right on the money @ 2".
Next I located where I wanted the 1/4" quick release pin to be located.
After reaming I test fit the pin. Perfect fitment.
I then used a 3/8" end mill to come in to the radius.
The other half of the block will need to be .7" thick. This will be the part that resides on the lower framework of the box. The block that mounts to the drawer itself will be a full 1" thick. This will allow the quick release pin to protrude below the bottom block just enough for the retention balls on the pin to fully release and therefore lock into the bores.
I left about .010" of thickness in which I will remove once both parts are separated and I can flip them over and remove from the other side.
Laying out the template on the lower block piece.
More to follow:
DesertRam
Active Member
- Location
- Southern New Mexico
Every time I read something from Mike I wish I lived closer so he could work on my truck. I'm sure it needs something! Thanks for all the very informative and drool-worthy posts Mike.