General Tech What did you work on Today?

BlueWolfFab

Running Behind
Location
Eagle Mountain
Got my rear blocks installed and the 35's from the ZJ. Rear blocks from 4WP ~$47.. (4) new U-bolts from Six States ~$52.

Pulled the front driveshaft just to be safe until I get the front on. Will definitely need to do some clean trimming. Going to try to see if the front lift coils and shocks will work from the ZJ. If that's the case, I have a 4" lift that I'd be into about $100. Yes, I know you get what you pay for, but keep in mind this won't really see any challenging trails. Granted down the road I'll need an SYE, extended brake lines etc, but it will work to get me around on the pavement for now. Got it up to about 55 by my house and no driveline vibes at this height.

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BlueWolfFab

Running Behind
Location
Eagle Mountain
I also spent about an hour at the junkyard pulling this front grille assembly. The fenders were no good and it was missing a passenger headlight trim piece so I'm still on the hunt for those, but as soon as I get them the XJ is getting repainted.

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nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
I've been working the last few nights on wiring a couple fuse blocks into my LX470. I intended to just do one in the rear cargo area but then after thinking about it didn't want to leave the engine compartment mounted stuff on the battery so I ordered a second fuse block and am mounting one six slot block under the hood and another six slot block inside my rig. I got the first fuse block and 100 amp fuse and holder from ttorarunner for a good price so its not costing me too much to add the second. I had some thick wire that was already installed in a truck I used to own that I'm using to go from the battery to the fuse holder and first fuse block. I'm still trying to decide whether to run power to the interior mounted block through the first block or straight from the big fuse. I'm leaning towards the big fuse.

I bought and mounted an always hot dual USB outlet where a keyed 12v receptacle was in the back and have wiring and ends in place for a 20" led strip on the back hatch. I just need to connect the other ends of the wires to the fuse block and mount the led strip with a couple small screws. Up front I have a couple 12" led light bars in my bumper, as well as ham and CB radios that will connect to the under hood fuse block. (I know its recommended to connect radio straight to battery, I'm not convinced its totally necessary and will test it out before chopping down the wires to exact length.)

I've been wanting to do this for a while but seem to only be able to work on my rig right before upcoming trips for whatever reason. I was kind of holding out for a second battery but then replaced the main and decided to just install this now knowing it would/will be fairly easy to move the leads down the road if/when a second battery shows up.

I'll try to add some pictures later tonight after I'm able to hopefully finish up getting everything terminated and connected.
 
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RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
Bluewolfab;
I have a extended driveshaft I had made to get me by till I got a SYE. I only used it to get to Moab, low miles.
If your interested.

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RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
New shifter.
[emoji83]
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DAA

Well-Known Member
So yesterday I made this:

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To mount this:

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Here:

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Crude. Like my skills and knowledge, but it's functional and solid.


Had the compressor mounted on the passenger fender where the factory airbox sits. But needed to relocate it after ditching the CAI and going back to the factory intake. Have wanted to get rid of that CIA for awhile. When I got a really high idle and pulled the TB and found the IAC blocked open by a juniper twig, I took that as a clue that it really is time to get the factory intake back in :eek:. So factory air box went back where compressor was.

Have seen one writeup where a guy fit the same compressor on the ABS tray laying flat. He had to relocate the cruise control to do it but it fit. With my AEV highline fenders, and slightly modified ABS tray, no way it was going to sit flat down in there, so had to make a bracket to hold it at just the right angle to clear brake lines and wiring and leave room for me to reach the compressor mounting bolts.

- DAA
 
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RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
Finally picked up new tires for the teardrop, since my old axle killed the last set fairly quickly.

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RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
Someone makes these on Etsy .com.

Made ofABS plastic. I filled the hole with the stuff for sprinkles to adapt it to my shifter. Threads in/out just fine.
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Paint Whatcha color you like.

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_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
been building a pre runner style bumper for my titan. but yesterday i finally wired in the winch etc along with putting my new hayden trans cooler in. dropped my temps about 20*


Winch is a Tungten 12,000lb with a 3/8x95' rope. has wireless controller etc. pretty neat. also decided to run the grounds to the frame from the battery. truck never had one, from factory it jumps over to the motor from the fender. took away the winding noise from my stereo. i plan to just do the same for the rear.
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hayden trans cooler with -6an fittings.

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RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
More progress on the shop today. Picked up a vise. Just a 3-1/2" jaws but it was only $5 . I'll get a bigger one when a good deal pops up.
Works for now.
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Also had a 1/4" (2x4') plate given to me for my bench top. I have enough to extend that about a foot or two.
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moab_cj5

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Saturday, I finally washed my GX after a couple of months of dirt and mud from trips building up on it. When I was done washing it, the headlights looked REALLY yellow. I decided it was time to do something about it, so I hit up AutoZone on my way home and grabbed a 3M restoration kit.

Taping off the paint:
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The instructions are pretty easy to follow, so you sand with varying grits of provided sand paper, then polish with 2 stages of polishing pads. The results are WAY better than I expected, but I will still buy new lenses eventually to get that crystal clear look.

Getting closer:
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With both done:
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Then, since it was clean, I decided to install some new decals I got a while back. I don't love where I put them (I should have lowered them closer to the body line), but they are on, so they are staying put.
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anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
Saturday, I finally washed my GX after a couple of months of dirt and mud from trips building up on it. When I was done washing it, the headlights looked REALLY yellow. I decided it was time to do something about it, so I hit up AutoZone on my way home and grabbed a 3M restoration kit.

Taping off the paint:
View attachment 109893

The instructions are pretty easy to follow, so you sand with varying grits of provided sand paper, then polish with 2 stages of polishing pads. The results are WAY better than I expected, but I will still buy new lenses eventually to get that crystal clear look.

Getting closer:
View attachment 109894

With both done:
View attachment 109895

Then, since it was clean, I decided to install some new decals I got a while back. I don't love where I put them (I should have lowered them closer to the body line), but they are on, so they are staying put.
View attachment 109896

I used this kit on my Jetta head lights about 2 years ago. Super simple and good results. Only downside is that it is not a permanent fix. After about a year they started to cloud up again and while they are not nearly as cloudy as when I did them originally, they need to be done again.
 

RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
I finally got my 1.5" D-rings done.
Couldn't get em milled, my boss loaned me his BIG grinder. Had em shaved down in no time.
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Finished up a '34 Ford grille shell last night that I have been working on for a friend for the past couple of nights. Turned out pretty well for being 80+ year old steel that's been sitting in a farmer's field for half of its life.
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Bars turned out very straight.
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Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
What did it look like when you started?

I apologize, for some reason I thought I had already posted before pictures.

Here is the first part of the repair, after a couple of mock-ups on the actual car prior to bringing it to my shop. Unfortunately I already had the couple of bars straightened after an hour or of tweaking before I decided to take pictures and document. The below pictures at least show the welding and finishing portion. The bent/tweaked bars were on the right side of the grille shell, left facing the grille. They were the second and third ones.

I received a call last week from a long time client and friend asking me to work on a grille for his '34 Ford. I had built a chassis for his '38 Chevy about 8+ years ago and built up the frame and drivetrain/rolling chassis for a 1976 Scout II several years ago as well. Now it looks like he's building a '34 Ford. I informed him again that I had dissolved my business last year and wasn't in the position to take on any work at this time because I was still setting up my shop and organizing. He continued to plead with me telling me he didn't trust anyone else to weld and straighten it and I eventually caved in and agreed to work on it. I guess I should be flattered but I was instead frustrated as I had other things I would rather be doing this week.
I was able to work on it for a couple of hours this afternoon/evening and made some serious progress on it. Here it is after about an hour of straightening the two bars that were tweaked/bent.
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Next up was to tackle the two large cracks/breaks at the bottom.
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I forgot how many tools I end up getting out to do small sheet metal/body work jobs.
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I drilled a small .045" hole at the end of each crack to prevent them from propagating any further.
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I clamped the bottom to prevent movement and give some rigidity while moving the cracked edge into position for welding.
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Top crack after TIG welded, ground, blended and metal finished.
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Tomorrow night I will tackle the lower crack and weld a small reinforcing piece in behind it before returning it to the owner.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I was able to finish fabricating, installing and loading my metal storage rack over the weekend. This allowed me to finally get my third bay cleaned out and park my truck in the attached garage thus freeing up a space in the shop.
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It's amazing how much material a person collects over the years by merely purchasing a little extra from various jobs to ensure you have some on hand when needed. I think I need to use some of my on hand material for a while and use up some supply.
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Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
While I was in the zone fabricating over the weekend, I decided to fab up a few more hangers for items around the shop to add to the organization process and help me feel like I'm gaining ground in organizing my new shop.

I made a few hangers for my spare welding helmets and face shield out of 3/8" rod and flat strap.
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Next I was tired of looking at my spare air hoses and extension cords sitting on the floor so I decided to utilize the empty space under one of my windows.
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Next up was to build one specific hanger for single air hose and single extension cord on the opposite side of the shop within easy reach/access.
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A little TIG weave.
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Again, painted with Rustoleum Hammered paint. This color seems to be my shop signature color with my workbenches as well as my drawer organizers and lockers that are all the same color and hammered or wrinkle finish.
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Lastly I decided to build some hangers for my lawn equipment like I had at my last home. I hate having these sitting on the floor in the garage but I was planning on building hangers after mudding and painting my attached garage, however, I don't think that is going to happen until spring due to setting up the shop and finishing the yard taking a bit longer than I originally thought it would so I'm not waiting any longer.
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And I painted them with the same Rustoleum Hammered paint.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 
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