What do I get for the next bike?

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Ordered these: ProX Racing Parts Steel Intake and Exhaust Valves and Spring Kit
61Erte7lUBL._SL1000_.jpg

ProX steel valve and spring kits offer increased durability and less wear under extreme conditions, easily lasting 3 times longer than the OEM titanium valves. Nitrided valves offer high microhardness while supersmooth surface finish reduces friction between stem and guide. Spring are made from premium chrome vanadium steel for higher performance and durability under high RPM. These stronger valve springs deal with the extra weight of the steel valves. Fully rebuildable with OEM retainers, bases and seals without the need of any further engine modifications. Fits: Yamaha YZ 450 F 2010-2013.
 

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
I'm not sure about the Yamahas but I know with Hondas the big problem is actually the valve seats. Look into beryllium seats, all the performance machine shops I talked to recommend using them and retaining the titanium valves
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
I'm not sure about the Yamahas but I know with Hondas the big problem is actually the valve seats. Look into beryllium seats, all the performance machine shops I talked to recommend using them and retaining the titanium valves

Good to know.
I'm told with the new 4 valve motor they went to Titanium valves which don't have the longevity of the stainless steel ones. And that once the stock valves start moving more often then they are on their way out.
The shop I talked to (D&K Cycle) said you can recut the valve seats up to two times before replacing them, but if it's not too much more: I'll probably do it.
He told me if I bring the parts he will disassemble the head, recut the valve seats, shim the valves, replace the valve seals and vacuum test the head for $100 if I run his shop logo on my graphics next season...
So that was the direction I was going.

Then I was going to do a piston and timing chain myself... After you and I did that last one it was easy.
This motor has lots more room around it to work on everything.

I'm after ultimate reliability.
 
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Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
So... I just ordered some more parts :D

After some recommendation I decided that I'd go OEM timing chain and OEM Piston. Everyone says they are better than aftermarket unless you spend double on JE.

Gasket, Cylinder Head 1
Yamaha
item: 33D-11181-00-00
INCL. IN TOP END GASKET KIT

Gasket, Cylinder
Yamaha
item: 33D-11351-00-00
INCL. IN TOP END GASKET KIT

Piston Assy
Yamaha
item: 33D-116A0-00-00

Seal, Valve Stem
Yamaha
item: 51Y-12119-00-00

Bolt, Flange
Yamaha
item: 90105-06064-00

Bolt, Flange
Yamaha
item: 90105-06179-00

Bolt
Yamaha
item: 90109-06232-00

Bolt, With Washer
Yamaha
item: 90119-08095-00

Chain timing
Yamaha
item: 94591-57122-00
 
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Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
I think you should have bumped the compression a bit

I don't want to make it hard to start.

I want it easy easy easy to start for dead start land rush style races and 12.5:1 is stock.
13.5:1 is borderline race gas.
JE makes a 12.8:1 piston but it's $200

Strangely enough the stock piston and the GYTR 13.5 piston are both supposedly made by JE.
But the stock piston was less expensive than the ProX piston. weird.
 
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