RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Okay, so I have no concept of what any given amount of lift looks like on an XJ. Can someone with a stock XJ take a quick measurement for me? I want to know the distance between the lower crease in the quarter panel, and the center of the hub on the axle. Then I can subtract my measurement from your measurement and I'll know how much lift I'm sitting at. I made an illustration to refer to, so we are measuring between the same two points. Anyone with an XJ with a known amount of lift could participate as well. Just post your measurement, and how tall your lift is.

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RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Ours is 30" from break to axle center. 5" lift.

Hmmmm... So this is probably sitting at about 6" of lift. That does sound like a lot. I'll probably set it up a couple inches lower when I mount the coilovers. Just out of curiosity, can anyone with a stock XJ confirm 25" from hub center to the lower body crease?
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
At the very top of the factory roof rack, I measured 74". Very nicely done. :) Now show your work or you don't get credit. -_-

(tire height+tire height) + "a little" = guesstimated XJ height

(34.7 + 34.7) + "a little" = guesstimated XJ height

69.4 + 4.6 = guesstimated XJ height

74" = guesstimated XJ height




:D
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
If I skip a few more steps on my build me you and bart should try and do a break down run together. (Emphasis on the break for my buggy:rofl:)

I am moving slower than expected at this point, as I will post on my build thread. Hope to make some major progress in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to a break in run with you guys. That lil ol XJ will be a force to be dealt with.
 

JoeT

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman
Okay, so I have no concept of what any given amount of lift looks like on an XJ. Can someone with a stock XJ take a quick measurement for me? I want to know the distance between the lower crease in the quarter panel, and the center of the hub on the axle. Then I can subtract my measurement from your measurement and I'll know how much lift I'm sitting at. I made an illustration to refer to, so we are measuring between the same two points. Anyone with an XJ with a known amount of lift could participate as well. Just post your measurement, and how tall your lift is.

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Looking good Braden! Can't wait to see you wheel it. Now how much crap did you give me about my Cherokee's?-_-
 

jet_aj

Just loosing my mind
Location
UT
... Where it sits right now would be about 21 inches to the bottom of the "frame", if the front were sitting at the same height. ...

That is exactly where mine is sitting with a 6" lift (measured to bottom of "frame rail" under driver seat)

I like the way it sits at this height. It stands out from EVERY other xj with a 4" lift... and I like having the extra 2 inches of height under the center of the jeep for the rocks in all the washes around price ;)
 

DANOMATIC

New Member
I Have A Stock 1990 Xj. Sits About 24 Inches From Center of Wheel To YOUR MARK. Hopes This Helps Yah.
 
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RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I Have A Stock 1990 Xj. Sits About 24 Inches From Center of Wheel To YOUR MARK. Hopes This Helps Yah.

Interesting. That would mean it's sitting at 7 inches of lift. :ugh: Once the fenders are cut I think it will be clear that it can come down some.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Interesting. That would mean it's sitting at 7 inches of lift. :ugh: Once the fenders are cut I think it will be clear that it can come down some.

Keep in mind that you're comparing a '90 Cherokee... good chance it's got some spring sag, being 18 yrs old. Those stock XJ rear spring packs are pretty weak, if a vehicle has been wheeled or carried any heavy load, those springs could be flat or negative arch.

Just set the ride height where you think it needs to be. My TJ is taller than I'd really like, but it's lower than most. I'm happy with that outcome.
 

DANOMATIC

New Member
Owned The Jeep For Almost Five Years Now. Replaced The Springs When I Bought It, Cause It Was Sagging Bad. So Its Sitting On Springs That Are Five Years Old. If That Helps Any. I Dont Do Any Hauling Either. To Me It Looks Like Its At Where It Should Be. ANYWAYS JUST TRYING TO HELP.
 

jsudar

Well-Known Member
Location
Cedar Hills
I don't know if you have started your cage yet, but I have been kicking around the idea of incorporating the cage into the actual unibody structure. i.e.: taking the plasma cutter to the A,B,C and D pillars and cutting out strip so the roll cage tubing can be welded into the structural part of the pillar. This would greatly increase the rigidity of the chassis.
You would probably have to cut the roof off to do this properly, but you seem to be pretty skilled. Just weld temporary braces to the pillars to hold everything where it needs to be so the roof would go back on easier.
Another thing I have seen is filling closed channels on the unibody structure with expanding foam. A lot of autocross guys do this cut down chassis flex without adding too much weight, plus it really quiets down the ride-- think 04 and up F150-- they do the same thing.
Just make sure to use the more expensive Hilti foam. It is much better than the cheap stuff and doesn't catch fire near as easily in the event of a nasty accident.

Hope that helps
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I don't know if you have started your cage yet, but I have been kicking around the idea of incorporating the cage into the actual unibody structure. i.e.: taking the plasma cutter to the A,B,C and D pillars and cutting out strip so the roll cage tubing can be welded into the structural part of the pillar. This would greatly increase the rigidity of the chassis.
You would probably have to cut the roof off to do this properly, but you seem to be pretty skilled. Just weld temporary braces to the pillars to hold everything where it needs to be so the roof would go back on easier.
Another thing I have seen is filling closed channels on the unibody structure with expanding foam. A lot of autocross guys do this cut down chassis flex without adding too much weight, plus it really quiets down the ride-- think 04 and up F150-- they do the same thing.
Just make sure to use the more expensive Hilti foam. It is much better than the cheap stuff and doesn't catch fire near as easily in the event of a nasty accident.

Hope that helps

Those are some interesting ideas. I like the foam idea. That could help make the unibody parts that are not going to be plated a little stronger. Putting the cage inside the pillars would not help with headroom, unless you went through the roof and put the roof bars on top. I've got a pretty good idea how the cage is going to work, the a pillars will probably be outside, but with plates on both sides to "box" it in with the a pillar. Then it will probably run in the drip rail back to the rear, and then through the roof behind the back seat for the coilover mount. All the control arms are mounted to the heavily reinforced part of the frame, and the coilover mounts will be on the cage, which will be continuous from the front bumper to the rear, and tied in to the reinforced section of frame. Although there may be less "frame reinforcing" on this XJ than some others, The strategic suspension mounting points should greatly reduce the twisting forces you would see on a more traditional XJ. It will be like having a very basic buggy chassis with an XJ body wrapped around it.

I'm guessing I wouldn't want to weld on a body panel filled with foam? That may make the foam impractical.
 

jsudar

Well-Known Member
Location
Cedar Hills
Yeah, definitely wait until you are all done welding before you fill anything with foam. I would probably even do a few shakedown runs before the foam, just in case something needed to be changed.
 
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