D60 swap in a Rubicon

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
You are skitso

Naawww... I'm pretty sure I'm going to do a HPD44 in the front. The rear I'm undecided - HPD60 or a HPF9. I like the F9 for clearence and weight, but I think the HPD60 would be a better axle...?

If I do the D60, I'll most likely put F9 housing ends on it (because I'll have to narrow it anyway..) But then what axles would I run - custom most lkey?? ...Thoughts?
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
9" > 60...both in parts available and cost of those parts. If you are planning on a HP then don't waste your time with a currie unit, only a true Hi9. If you're going for a currie unit then you are just putting a polished 8.8 in there. Personally, my dream rear axle is a True Hi9 with 35 spline shafts (40 if I were to run a spool). That third member is quite pricey though.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
9" > 60...both in parts available and cost of those parts. If you are planning on a HP then don't waste your time with a currie unit, only a true Hi9. If you're going for a currie unit then you are just putting a polished 8.8 in there. Personally, my dream rear axle is a True Hi9 with 35 spline shafts (40 if I were to run a spool). That third member is quite pricey though.

You ain't kiddn' expensive....

I'm not saying either is better than the other. And no, I haven't been looking at Currie's HP9", either (nobody's at the moment actually). Although, after reading up on the HI9 just now, I would like the Currie hybrid better - uses stock gears that I can find elsewhere if needed! Also same with the rest of their parts - everything is easily obtainable from a local wrecking yard/parts house.

Currie's is also cheaper :D
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
The HPD44 that I was getting was sold to someone else. But I still think I'm going to do the D60 in the rear. I've just been thinking about it, and I'd really like the time in the shop, if nothing else :D

However, I think I want to stay 62" wide and possibly a HPD60?

I think I'll start a new thread, as I have more questions besides just a D60....


Isn't the HP running on the weak side of the gears in a rear application?
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
9" > 60...both in parts available and cost of those parts. If you are planning on a HP then don't waste your time with a currie unit, only a true Hi9. If you're going for a currie unit then you are just putting a polished 8.8 in there.

I'll just repost what's right there. ^^

I do want to emphasize though, stay away from the Currie high pinion third member. If you want a high pinion 9", the TrueHi9 is the only one.

Nothing wrong with 9" bearing ends no matter what center you decide on, and aftermarket 35 spline shafts are EASY to come by from a variety of sources.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Isn't the HP running on the weak side of the gears in a rear application?

Yep, that's why I wouldn't bother with a HP 8.8 (currie unit) or HP44. I'm sure you remember how many R+P sets Creighton broke in his rear end before he swapped to a 60....
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
You ain't kiddn' expensive....

I'm not saying either is better than the other. And no, I haven't been looking at Currie's HP9", either (nobody's at the moment actually). Although, after reading up on the HI9 just now, I would like the Currie hybrid better - uses stock gears that I can find elsewhere if needed! Also same with the rest of their parts - everything is easily obtainable from a local wrecking yard/parts house.

Currie's is also cheaper :D

The Currie HP would be much weaker than your current rear end. If you have to have a HP then go a 60 or the true hi9.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Yep, that's why I wouldn't bother with a HP 8.8 (currie unit) or HP44. I'm sure you remember how many R+P sets Creighton broke in his rear end before he swapped to a 60....


Granted it is Creighton, but he did go through quite a few gearsets. I wouldn't run one in the rear. I think it'd be SWEET in the front, though (the pinion might even be too high, though?).
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
The HPD44 is for the front, not the rear. Do I still want to stay away from it then?

The rear I was thinking HP D60 or 9" - looks like the only 9 woudl be the hi9 if I did the 9"....

What about a HPD60 for the rear? Honestly, if I'm going to be spending ~$3,000 for a HI9 ($2,000 for a Detroit 3rd and call it another $1,000 for the housing, axles, disc brakes, etc) rear, I might as well do a RJ60 in the rear for $3,500 (with 12" Wilwood brakes w/e brake).... Thoughts?

If I did the HI9, what is the max reccomended tire size? I didn't see anything on their site. Currie says 35's on a rear HP9, 37's if it's a front (I just know because I do sell their stuff, not because I was looking into it for my rig). The RJ60 is 44", if I remember right....
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Also what stock D44 is around 63" to take axles from? I'd rather make a front HPD44 on the basis of stock axles than trying to always get them custom made. ie one breaks, I hit the wrecking yard. I know waggy is 60", right? F150 is 67".. Anything in between? ...Or do I just call Dutchman or Superior for customs....
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
The HPD44 is for the front, not the rear. Do I still want to stay away from it then?

The rear I was thinking HP D60 or 9" - looks like the only 9 woudl be the hi9 if I did the 9"....

What about a HPD60 for the rear? Honestly, if I'm going to be spending ~$3,000 for a HI9 ($2,000 for a Detroit 3rd and call it another $1,000 for the housing, axles, disc brakes, etc) rear, I might as well do a RJ60 in the rear for $3,500 (with 12" Wilwood brakes w/e brake).... Thoughts?

If I did the HI9, what is the max reccomended tire size? I didn't see anything on their site. Currie says 35's on a rear HP9, 37's if it's a front (I just know because I do sell their stuff, not because I was looking into it for my rig). The RJ60 is 44", if I remember right....


The HP is sweet in a front app as it's then running on the strong side of the gears. (unless you're in reverse) That's one of the reasons why the F*rd HP60 is so sought after (esp. the '77-79 units as they almost bolt-in to a YJ). It's not like I've seen a bunch of Dodge and Chev 60s with fragged ring/pinion gears, though.

I built my rear 14 bolt for about $400. I've got just about 1/2" less clearance than a D44 (after a couple of hours grinding the lip off the bottom and 'smoothing' various transition points). I measured the difference between my XJ 44 rear with MT/Rs and my 14 bolt with 315 BFG AT's. It's a "wimpy" 30 spline rear axle, but at 1.5" shaft thickness, I'll be semi-surprised to break it. If I do, it's not like a spare shaft will be hard to find. I think it's 67" WMS-WMS. With my H1 wheels and 12.50 tires, I'm at 75" sidewall/sidewall. I had to redo the perches anyway, so I just rotated the pinion up a little and it seems like it will stay of the rocks OK. My driveshafts are kind of my weak link, so I'll need to get some spares.

I'm running a stock Chev front 60. They're 69.5" WMS/WMS. I'm 77" sidewall/sidewall with the 38 x 12.50 swamps. I can get stock axle shafts reasonably easy (rather than a cut down version) if they do break and I'm fairly narrow. The H1 wheel is kind of extreme in the offset. I think they're 7" or something? Frankly, they're kind of a pain to build around and then you get to find a 16.5" tire (you're kinda "stuck" with SXs, which isn't such a bad thing, but your choices are limited). Get a common 5.5" offset and be 80" sidewall/sidewall. What are you now? The beauty of the 8 lug, is they're all the same (F*rd, Dodge, GM) until the super smart F*rd enginerds decided to move to 8 on 170mm. I think they could have run with 8 on 165 mm and still been interchangeable (they get the ID 10 T award for that from my perspective).


If you're just sticking with 35" tires, why not stay with what you have? You've got a pretty significant investment in your alloy shafts and what not. If I were in your shoes, I'd just enjoy what I have (a fairly streetable TJ) and know it's limits. Personally, I don't think you're 'upgrading' much from the Rubicon front 44, to the HP 44. True, you do get a little better ball joint, probably a stronger axle tube and you get the high pinion thing. For what it will cost you to put in there and what you're getting out of it, it's tough to build a business case for it. :D .......then you need to figure out the rear axle.

The built RJ60 sounds good if you're set on the HPD44 and if you count your labor as any kind of cost. That'll come set up to bolt-in to the TJ, right?
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
My stock axles are 60", so I'm probably about 70" sidewall to sidewall.

HPD44 verses stock D44:
The main reason for the swap is the HP part. With it being HP, I can re do the front suspension and triangulate it without needing to do anything funky with the control arms. I also get better ball joint setup. I also get much bettter brakes. And in the meantime, manual hubs. So to me, this swap is well worth it. With the $'s I have in my stock axles, I doubt I will lose much when I sell them as a set. They came with the rig, so I don't have anything in them in the aqcuisition. The shafts are about $1,000 and $450 in the steering. I bet I can get at least $3k (possibly $4k) for both axles, rim to rim.

As for bolt patterns, I'll probably stick with 5 on 5.5".

If I went RJ60, I wouldn't spend another ~$500 for them to install TJ bracketry. One, I can do it a lot cheaper than that. Two, I don't want stock TJ bracketry! With the triangulated rear, all of the UCA's, TB and SB mounts are gone. I'll then do some high clearance LCA mounts.
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
Gastown
Are you breaking the front axle? Will triangulated front suspension get you any further down the trail? Do you have ball joint issues? Or anything to the degree of spending the time and money to put in a marginally better axle (hp44)? It seems silly to me to see people swap 30's out for 44's, but a rubi 30/44 thingy for a hp44 seems even more silly. I've always said it and I'll say it again--if you are breaking the 30 or you feel you are really close to it, then you will be doing the exact same thing to a 44. the only jump worth the money in the front is a 60. (or a really cool 9" w/ 60 outers :D )

As for the rear, the direction I would like to go is to grab a custom housing from Spidertrax (or someplace similar) (http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.1247/.f), true hi9 center, 14 bolt outers (for FF), disk brakes, 35 spline alloys and a spool.

But that would be completely overkill for 35's--as would a rear 60, front 60 etc etc. I mean, if you have the money to throw at it by all means do it. But in my eyes your rig is set up perfectly for 35's right now as it sits and it appears to work relatively well as it sits.

Cody
 

SICK99TJ

Well-Known Member
Location
Bluffdale
I can not lock the tires up - and I'm putting some MEAN pressure on the pedal.

that is because of the 4.1 in the t-case not because your brakes dont work.
take it out of 4 low and you will stop just fine.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Why do you want to triangulate the front suspension so bad? That's going to cause you steering issues unless you're going to fully hydraulic steering at the same time.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I can not lock the tires up - and I'm putting some MEAN pressure on the pedal.

that is because of the 4.1 in the t-case not because your brakes dont work.
take it out of 4 low and you will stop just fine.

:confused: Wouldn't pushing in the clutch be easier?:rolleyes: ;)
...and yes, it is the brakes.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Are you breaking the front axle? Will triangulated front suspension get you any further down the trail? Do you have ball joint issues? Or anything to the degree of spending the time and money to put in a marginally better axle (hp44)? It seems silly to me to see people swap 30's out for 44's, but a rubi 30/44 thingy for a hp44 seems even more silly. I've always said it and I'll say it again--if you are breaking the 30 or you feel you are really close to it, then you will be doing the exact same thing to a 44. the only jump worth the money in the front is a 60. (or a really cool 9" w/ 60 outers :D )

Cody

I am having ball joint and uni bearing issues. The 35" tires are way to much for them, and they need replacing way to often. Also, I would like a wider stance and better brakes.
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
Gastown
well, I still say do it right the first time. If you're going to invest time and money into an axle, put one in that you will never outgrow. it's all a business expense anyway right?

I used to be in love with Kevin Hawkins old TJ--35's, 60's. Bitchin sleeper rig.
 
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